Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I would like to move all outboard controls (throttle, shifting, steering) to the pedestal. This would greatly aid in docking and other limited-room maneuvers. I could have complete control while standing at the wheel rather then one hand on the wheel, one hand on the OB cowl and one foot on the gear shift lever and the other foot on the throttle. Several components are needed. First are the shift and speed controls. Fortunately, Edson makes just the kit ($279 at defender.com):
To use the kit you must remove the shift and throttle controls from the outboard. The result looks like this:
or this:
Finally, you need a rudder-to-wheel link. There have been several done by forum members ranging from the classic Arlyn Soft Link to recent hard links developed by Steve and Paul. There is also the EZ Steer and other commercial products. Right now I am leaning to the soft link if I can find stainless steel ends for the bungee.
Putting all the elements together is the key. I am concerned about the cables that come from the starboard side of the outboard in the pictures above. Will these cables prevent the OB from doing a full port turn? In the upper photo the cables (black, the white fat cable is electrics) look flexible enough to avoid trouble. In the lower photo the OB is mounted to an extender that moves the OB back about a foot off the transom. I don’t have that item and would prefer not to have to use it. So, you Honda experts will the cables prevent the port turn or not?? I have 1999 9.9hp Honda so it is a little different from the photos.
We cannot direct the winds but we can adjust our sails.
Randy, I'm not trying to discourage you from making the pedestal control mods but would offer that waiting until after you do the soft link may be informative.
During my shakedown sail, I knew something had to change regarding handling the boat in close quarters. There was simply too much to do causing overload that was too distracting from the primary task of observation of what the boat is doing.
I envisioned as are you, the necessity of pedestal controls but tackled the linking to the rudder first, and that is when the soft link was birthed (Feb '96). After rigging the softlink, the overload was gone and cost and encumbrance of the pedestal controls was dismissed as a need.
I found the tiller handle in a vertical position to be excellent and reaching only slightly for the shift lever to be of no consequence. I decided to keep it simple because simple works great as there have been no more episodes of overload during close quarters handling, thanks to the soft link.
I had a remote set up like that on my 2003 C250 with a Tohatsu 9.8. It wasn't on the pedistal but on the starboard side of the lazerath. It worked good the only problem was when tilting up the engine. To keep from kinking the cables you had to rotate the engine to one side then tilt it up. It was also a PIA to remove from the outboard for storage in the winter and reattach in the spring. Something you really didn't want to do in the water (possibility of dropping parts overboard).
Randy, I like my engine controls at the binnacle/helm. At first I used a "soft link" but have since removed this from my boat. When close quarter maneuvering is needed, I just center the helm and reach down with my right hand and use the engine to steer the boat (left hand controls the engine throttle/gear selector). At very slow speeds the rudder has no effect on the boat handling anyway and in this scenario I use the engine to steer.
I have now gone to using prop walk to move the stern of the boat around and aid in controlling the boat in lieu of the soft link. Once you have a little boat speed the rudder becomes effective and the engine can then provide the momentum/power. Mix in a little creative motor use (a little throttle to get you going, drop it in neutral to use the momentum you just created with the throttle so the rudder can take control and you can then steer the boat with the rudder) and you find you don't need the link to the engine as much as you first thought.
I guess in by case I prefer not to have the rudder and engine tied together. Just my two cents on the subject.
As I looked closer at the photo, I started to recognize a few things that looked awfully familiar. Hey, that second photo is my boat!!!! Yes it does turn a little bit easier one way, but really isn't that bad. I am on a mooring, so I don't have alot of turning to do. I like it very much and would not change it.
Jerry, how well would the outboard turn if you didn't have the extension bracket for the outboard?
Arlyn, I will consider your advice. Makes sense. Most of my docking maneuvers went fine but every now and then, usually when a quick change was needed, it got overwhelming - sometimes resulting in mayhem. Agreed, the hardest part was turning the OB and if that was handled by the wheel the rest would be easier. Still, if I could do it all while standing, and looking like the proper skipper, I would likely go that route.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Nautiduck</i> <br />Jerry, how well would the outboard turn if you didn't have the extension bracket for the outboard?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Because of the cables, I believe that it would be very difficult to turn the motor to the right. The cables would be in the way.
Geesh, nothing is easy. As per Jerry it would appear that the pedestal controls option relies on the outboard being mounted back on an extension. I am concerned enough about the stern weight on our 250 that I hate to shift the OB back further. Hmmmmmmmm.
So, it seems like the path of least resistance is to do a rudder-to-OB link and see if that is enough for me. Darn! Having all controls at the wheel while standing was my dream.
Captain Jack Sparrow <b>NEVER</b> knelt at the controls.
Randy, with the soft/hard link in place, that only leaves the throttle and gear shift. On our Tohatsu, the throttle arm/tiller can be pointed directly up (need to stiffen the angle control) so a tiller extension and a gear shift extension would make it much easier to reach.
If I recall correctly, someone posted a pic of part of that setup.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Nautiduck</i> <br />Geesh, nothing is easy. As per Jerry it would appear that the pedestal controls option relies on the outboard being mounted back on an extension. I am concerned enough about the stern weight on our 250 that I hate to shift the OB back further. Hmmmmmmmm.
So, it seems like the path of least resistance is to do a rudder-to-OB link and see if that is enough for me. Darn! Having all controls at the wheel while standing was my dream.
Captain Jack Sparrow <b>NEVER</b> knelt at the controls. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> You can bark orders and see if anything happens! So much on sailboats begs for remote wireless controls. I have never understood separate 12 volt circuits on our boats. It seems like there should simply be a 12 volt "buss" circuit and every device would simply open or close on the buss with a wireless remote signal. Imagine just 2 wires in the mast! I wonder what an OB with a wireless remote for all controls would entail. I wonder if a model airplane guy could come up with something.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Frank Hopper</i> <br />...I wonder if a model airplane guy could come up with something. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Like the guy who made this? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GtIL_VjBUGo
Randy, Like Paul's description, our Johnson's tiller handle can be pointed straight up so the throttle is relatively easy to get to. If the tiller handle is not pointed straight up, it gets in the way when you're making a starboard turn anyway, so you want it pointing up. The shifter is another thing, at least it's on the front of the outboard instead of on the side like on my Mercury. It's a bit of a pain to get to sometimes, especially if you're standing up, which I usually am when entering or leaving the marina. I keep thinking about making some sort of extension for it, but I guess it hasn't annoyed me enough yet to worry about it.
If you're interested I can give you some design considerations for making a hard link although bear in mind that I made mine out of aluminum and as such, may be tainted by heretical practices. Knowing what I know now, I'd make a couple of minor changes to my design, especially the removable linkage pin. I'd change that to what Paul suggested originally, one with a thumb button on top that'd make it much easier to place or remove it. Mine's kind of a pain with it's cotter pin arrangement. Not sure they make them big enough though, I've only seen them up to about 1/4", and those, while they <i>are </i>SS, are about $25 each (you need two, although you could get by with one).
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by delliottg</i> <br />I keep thinking about making some sort of extension for it, but I guess it hasn't annoyed me enough yet to worry about it.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
David,
To make shifting easier, a friend of mine made a shift handle extension out of a piece of 1/2" pvc pipe. He cut slots in the pipe on the end that went over the shift lever then secured it with a hose clamp. Although he extended his shift lever straight up, with something like this, you might even be able to put an elbow in it to angle it up towards the cockpit...Just a thought.
While were at it we could install remote: Throttle, shift, start/stop, direction and unpinning the mooring ball. This way you could RC the boat towards you at the dock. Haven't figured out how to repin the mooring ball though. LOL. A remote control windlass could do it.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Frank Hopper</i> <br />...I wonder what an OB with a wireless remote for all controls would entail...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Although not exactly wireless, the top hp Mercury outboards feature a fly-by-wire throttle and shifter.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.