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Getting rid of my antifouling paint, now what?

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Steve Blackburn
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
1091 Posts

Initially Posted - 11/29/2007 : 01:35:55

Hi guys,

When I bought my boat last year it had antifouling ablative paint on it. PO says it's about 3-4 years old.

I believe it wise to get rid of my antifouling ablative paint for the following reasons:
1. It's about 3-4 years old and due anyways.
2. My boat is kept on the trailer all the time, and ablative paint is not a good idea and very chalky now. The longest I would keep it in the water is probably 10 days during our summer holidays. The boat is out of the water 95% of the time.
3. I believe I am not allowed to have ablative paint on my boat on my freshwater lake (Ghost Lake, Alberta) since it's part of our drinking water system. Maybe Stampeder can attest to this as he is more experienced than I am in this region.

Most of the people here that keep it on a trailer seem to have the normal bare gelcoat bottom, Paul (Britinusa) comes to mind. Considering my usage I wonder if I should:

1. Remove the old ablative paint, restore to factory conditions (gelcoat only).
2. Remove the old ablative paint, restore to factory conditions and apply bottom paint.

If I should go with option #2, what would you use for bottom painting it? So far I have looked at:
- VC-17
- Interlux 2000 barrier coat
- Hard bottom paints (Interlux Micron)
- two part epoxy ( really like what Mark Maxwell has done on his although I would probably go for a dark blue or red) [url="http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=14224"]LINK[/url] scroll all the way down.
- I'm also attracted to this one for some reason: [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pKCF965SxaA&feature=related"]LINK[/url]

Steve Blackburn, Calgary, AB
C250WB - 1999 - Hull 396

Edited by - Steve Blackburn on 11/29/2007 02:25:57

Happy D
Admiral

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921 Posts

Response Posted - 11/29/2007 : 06:58:07

If it was my boat, I wouldn't put anything on it.
The deck is probably wet for more than 10 daays a year. Not putting anything on that. IMO Gelcoat should be just fine.

Edited by - on

stampeder
Master Marine Consultant

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1608 Posts

Response Posted - 11/29/2007 : 09:21:59

Bare bottom Baby.

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 11/29/2007 : 09:23:36

Agree.

Edited by - on

Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
6855 Posts

Response Posted - 11/29/2007 : 09:54:14

The only thing I can see as an issue with a bare gel coat bottom would be your ability to remove only the current bottom paint and only the barrier coat that sits between the gel coat and bottom paint. If there is one best case is that there isn't one, worst case is that it is VCtar. In order to remove only the ablative you are will most likely need to long board the old paint off since an orbital sander has too great of a chance of cutting into the gel coat if you aren't 100% careful.

If you find you do need to apply an antifouling paint then I would use a Interluxes Micron Extra. It is more inlign with trailer launched boats, as it is a hard non ablative paint, doesn't require re-application every year, doesn't require sanding to re-apply and it comes in white, so you don't look like a dufus trailerlaunching a boat with bottom paint.

Edited by - on

Steve Blackburn
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
1091 Posts

Response Posted - 11/29/2007 : 10:24:59

Excellent, then bare bottom it is! I'll use some type of stripper to rid the bottom paint. If the bottom doesn't look too good after that (of which I greatly doubt since I got to be quite good at repairing gelcoat) then I'll paint her bottom with Interlux Micron.

Thanks guys! Was trying to figure this out by myslef but there is so much conflicting information here and there that I didn't know where to start.

I have a WB. To get under the trailer bunks is it a good idea to tilt (heal) the boat to one side with the boat floating then pull it out to expose the undersides of the bunks? I could do most of it and have those 2 areas to strip/sand. Or maybe I shouldn't bother and just jack it up (using the trailer jack method) putting wooden 4X4 spacers between the 2 bunk resting points and the boat?

Edited by - Steve Blackburn on 11/29/2007 10:31:14

tinob
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1883 Posts

Response Posted - 11/29/2007 : 10:44:02

If my boat were on a trailer I'd go gel coat only....

Val on the hard DAGNABIT, # 3936, Patchogue, N.Y.

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 11/29/2007 : 11:10:19

Unless there are esthetic reasons, if the current bottom paint is a true ablative, I'd be inclined to power wash the bottom then let father time take care of the rest.

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Steve Blackburn
 The boat is out of the water 95% of the time.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

One more thing...You need to work on improving this percentage.

Edited by - dlucier on 11/29/2007 11:15:07

Steve Blackburn
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
1091 Posts

Response Posted - 11/29/2007 : 11:45:04

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by dlucier
 Unless there are esthetic reasons, if the current bottom paint is a true ablative, I'd be inclined to power wash the bottom then let father time take care of the rest.

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Steve Blackburn
 The boat is out of the water 95% of the time.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

One more thing...You need to work on improving this percentage.

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Agreed! Admiral and I find ourselves talking about sailing quite often. We discuss healing characteriscs, the physics involved, feeling, future trips, etc. I think we're getting into it. Should be sailing much more next summer. It's more than just a sport or activity, it's a new lifestyle for us and we're liking it more and more.

Edited by - Steve Blackburn on 11/29/2007 11:45:25

Ericson33
Admiral

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USA
892 Posts

Response Posted - 11/29/2007 : 12:49:51

Steve,

Not to be the one to bare the bad news, but I don't think even with stripper, you will not be able to get the bottom close to the gelcoat state without a ton of time tied up on sanding, then snading , then more sanding.

Now, if it was my boat and I had some extra money, the boat was on a trailer, and I had a truck to pull it, I would find a bead blaster or a company that will strip the bottom for you. I did or boat 2 years ago and can still feel it in my back, orbital sander 100 grit paper, and 4 days of sanding, all this work got me a bottom I felt I could paint, I applied a hard bottom paint w/ a sprayer because our boat sits on a hoist. this paint was then sanded, and sanded, and again sanded - there are still small places where it needs to be gone over.

the best question is : What is your time worth, and can someone as a professional do it for you, Maybee a car shop, not a boat yard?

Edited by - on

stampeder
Master Marine Consultant

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1608 Posts

Response Posted - 11/29/2007 : 14:05:07

Steve - GLM will let you use their sling hoist if your storage or moorage dues are paid. Or it's about $75 per day. If you buy paint from them, they'll also cut you some slack.
I have a gallon of paint if you want it, cheap. (I bought too much)

I have a power washer you can borrow.

And if you sand or paint I'd be happy to stand around and watch while drinking your beer.

Edited by - on

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 11/29/2007 : 14:49:22

I agree with using a power washer first to get off the loose chalked up paint. The guy who repainted my C-25 when we bought it last fall wet-sanded all the ablative paint off by hand. Took him about 2 days.
Also, one of our C-22 sailors came up with an innovative idea that works well (he says) and is enviro-friendly. He used soda blasting. I'm talking baking soda. I haven't seen it in action, missed the demo, but I understand that it is easier on the gelcoat with less chance of gouging, and it was fairly quick. I think that they used a sand blaster set for very fine powder. I can pass on an email address if you are interested.

After getting the old paint off, I would not repaint, except maybe a white barrier coat if you are going to trailer sail it.

Edited by - on

Admin
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460 Posts

Response Posted - 11/29/2007 : 14:58:59

Soda blasting is supposed to be the next best thing since the peanut shells. It is very difficult to find anyone that does it though.

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John Russell
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3444 Posts

Response Posted - 11/29/2007 : 17:31:09

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by stampeder
 And if you sand or paint I'd be happy to stand around and watch while drinking your beer.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

It's good to have supervision for these things.

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 11/29/2007 : 17:44:33

soda http://www.fatfenderssodablasting.com/

However I believe the best advice was to ignore it and let time deal with it.

Edited by - on

Steve Blackburn
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
1091 Posts

Response Posted - 11/29/2007 : 23:27:49

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by stampeder
 Steve - GLM will let you use their sling hoist if your storage or moorage dues are paid. Or it's about $75 per day. If you buy paint from them, they'll also cut you some slack.
I have a gallon of paint if you want it, cheap. (I bought too much)

I have a power washer you can borrow.

And if you sand or paint I'd be happy to stand around and watch while drinking your beer.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I had no idea GLM had a sling hoist, that's great! I buy most of my sailboat stuff from Mike at GLM and pay my dues in advance (6 months). Won't they mind the blue gunk/dust I'll leave behind? I'll take you up on that power washer for sure since I'm thinking multiple stripper applications and powerwashing in between. Wonder if I could find a baking soda sandblaster in Calgary though, I've seen YouTube videos and it's quite impresive. What kind of paint do you have and what kind of beer do you like?

Edited by - on

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 11/30/2007 : 00:04:31

Steve,
I've had decent luck with VC17 even though it's designed to be sailed dry, it was what was on my boat when I got it, and I touched up a bit before I put it in the water for several months. I was disappointed (but not overly surprised) to see that my touch ups have basically worn right back off. I think before I put it back in the water I'm going to strip the VC17 off and maybe go with Pettit Trinidad SR. A friend who just came out of the yards says that the guys in the yard unanimously said that it was the best bottom paint for this area. I like the idea of soda blasting it off, sounds like much less work for my shoulder to deal with.

That said, in your situation I'd probably go gelcoat only too.

Edited by - on

Steve Blackburn
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
1091 Posts

Response Posted - 11/30/2007 : 00:12:24

I found a soda blaster located here in Calgary and asked for a quote. I'll let you know about the pricing. Bare bottom is what I am aiming for. Was going to buy a powerwasher but I can invest in a 6 pack of beer for Stampeder instead, and if I'm lucky he'll let me have one.

Edited by - Steve Blackburn on 11/30/2007 00:13:08

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 11/30/2007 : 01:39:12

I found one here as well and have asked for a quote too. If it's reasonable enough, I'll have both boat bottoms done, maybe it'll make the San Juan 21 more sale-able.

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 11/30/2007 : 06:16:31

Shoot for $350 -$500 American, I paid $350. He earned every penny.

Edited by - on

stampeder
Master Marine Consultant

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1608 Posts

Response Posted - 11/30/2007 : 09:04:33

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Won't they mind the blue gunk/dust I'll leave behind?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
You will need to put up a tarp or two. He won't want any of your paint ending up on a new MacGregor.

The hoist is that big yellow thing behind the grey shop.

This is Labarca on the sling hoist getting a new bottom. I'm the white object under there...I'm there to cushion the boat's fall in case of strap failure.

Ohhh, and another thing....can you bring a lawn chair for me. Now that I think of it - drinking beer AND standing around might be a bit too much work.

Edited by - on

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 11/30/2007 : 12:28:32

The picture above of the soda blaster gives a great shot of the keel taper profile.

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 11/30/2007 : 12:44:58

Yes, it is not just a knife blade.
The photos I select to put on my pages show different things to different people, I have tried to pick pictures that are worth staring at a while. Downloading them and looking at them at full res turns up a lot that is missed at the web display res.

Edited by - on

Steve Blackburn
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
1091 Posts

Response Posted - 11/30/2007 : 15:08:32

What kind of paint is that Mike? Looks like the ablative I have but a little harder.

Edited by - on

Steve Blackburn
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
1091 Posts

Response Posted - 11/30/2007 : 23:38:51

I visited Industrial Plastics & Paint here in Calgary. They have a bottom stripper called [url="http://www.ippnet.com/EN/main/products/paints/5541/1154.html"]Removeall 610[/url] specificaly made for removing anti-fouling paint. It's only $67 for 5 gallons which is enough for our boats. This guy on Sailnet seemed pretty satisfied [url="http://list.sailnet.net/read/messages?id=101055"]LINK[/url].

Maybe I can get away by applying 2 successive coats and finalize with light wet sanding?

What yall think?

Edited by - Steve Blackburn on 12/01/2007 13:31:34

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 12/01/2007 : 07:19:26

I thought C250's came with a factory barrier coat? If so, you might want to ensure the chemical stripper won't damage the barrier coat...Just a thought.

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