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Coaming winch install for Edgy

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KBeazley
Deckhand

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USA
21 Posts

Initially Posted - 12/06/2007 : 22:00:06

Try this for an install. The coaming pockets were first then on to the winches.

Step one: I measured the coaming location three maybe four times.
Step two: I then cut a backing plate of three quarter marine plywood.
Had no metal plate, which would have been nice but I had the plywood. Step three: It was expoxied with three coats.
Step four: Drilled the coaming top and plate at the same time.

Step five: Redrilled holes to one size larger
Step six: Filled with epoxy. NOTE:this is where I made only mistake in not surrounding the holes with tape made a mess for myself some times we learn thru our mistakes

Step seven: Redrilled holes to screw size NOTE: all stainless steel

Finished drilled coaming

Step eight:Adjusting base ready to bolt down[right]

Step nine:Securing the base NOTE: The bolts, holes and base were filled with 3M 5200 prior to tightening the washers & nuts.
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Step ten:

Final Product Lewmar 14 ST winches
NOTE: Brackets for turning blocks on life line post in background.

Ken

kbeazley
C250 WB #190 ?
Burleson, Texas

Edited by - KBeazley on 12/06/2007 22:05:29

Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts

Response Posted - 12/06/2007 : 22:28:24

Nice job Ken! Was this for single handing? Did you leave winches on the deck as well? Great job.

Edited by - on

Steve Blackburn
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
1091 Posts

Response Posted - 12/06/2007 : 22:39:17

Yes very nice and thank you for the step by step with pictures.

I'm planning to do single handed racing this summer and would need these coaming winches.

Questions:
1.Ken why did you have to redrill the holes 3 times over? Was it a mistake or is there a technical reason to do so?

2. These #14 winches are the exact same as the stock cabin top winches provided by Catalina right?. Did you move them from the cabin top or buy new ones? I have no use for them on the cabin top, would much rather have them on the coamings.

3. How much are these and where did you get them?

Edited by - Steve Blackburn on 12/06/2007 22:49:19

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 12/07/2007 : 07:44:07

Ken that is a terrific upgrade. I would reconsider the 5200 as a recomendation, it is only recommended for permanent bonding and I would not consider the bolts holding a winch in place to be a proper use.
Are the turning blocks required for a fair lead? If required I think I would want to add a larger, stronger backing plate under the stanchion holding the turning block. If the sheet leads fair without the turning block I would not use one.

Edited by - on

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 12/07/2007 : 10:27:02

Ken,
Nice job! And having the photos makes it all that much easier to follow your steps. I haven't tried to single hand SL yet, but would like to. Having winches on the coamings would make that a lot easier although with a tiller it wouldn't be so bad as with a wheel. How hard was it to work around the coaming pockets from underneath? What type of epoxy did you use to bond the plywood to the underside with?

Steve,
I'm not sure why Ken did the first drilling, but maybe to get an idea of where he needed his backing plate placed? Maybe he used the first holes to clamp the backing plate in place while the epoxy cured? The 2nd & 3rd drillings were to first overdrill (make bigger than the bolt holes) and fill with epoxy, then drill for the proper diameter for the bolts such that the epoxy fill contains the bolts and there's no chance for water to get inside the holes and into the fiberglass. His only problem then was to get a proper seal for the holes inside the epoxy fills. I agree with Frank, I wouldn't use 5200 in that situation either, you're eventually going to want to rebed the winches and getting something to release from 5200 is a major PITA. A caulk might have been a better choice in the long run, but rebedding the winches is a long way off now.

Nothing like an armchair quarterback, huh?

Edited by - on

frogger
Navigator

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USA
184 Posts

Response Posted - 12/07/2007 : 10:43:10

Exactly the way I did mine. Great for single-handing. Looks good, works fine, not in the way, and I kept cabin-top winches.

Edited by - on

Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts

Response Posted - 12/07/2007 : 13:49:50

Frogger, why keep the cabin top winches?

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 12/07/2007 : 17:14:18

Halyards

Edited by - on

Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts

Response Posted - 12/07/2007 : 17:17:37

Right. I was thinking he'd just keep one but forgot that not everyone has a furler.

Edited by - on

Steve Blackburn
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
1091 Posts

Response Posted - 12/07/2007 : 20:10:00

How difficult would it be to remove my cabin top winches? Are they just bolted on with some silicone?

Edited by - on

Tom Potter
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1913 Posts

Response Posted - 12/07/2007 : 21:28:14

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Steve Blackburn
 How difficult would it be to remove my cabin top winches? Are they just bolted on with some silicone?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

They come off pretty easy, remove the cover in the galley and head under the winches to gain access the winch nuts. You will also need to disassemble the winches to get to the bolt heads to hold them while you remove the nuts(two people job). You'll have to apply a good bit of leverage to the winch base to break the sealer bond(not that hard).

If your thinking of moving your cabin top winches to the coaming (which I recommend) you will want a cabin top replacement. You have a couple choices, find a cheaper replacement with the same bolt pattern or fill the old bolt holes and drill new ones to match your new cabin top winch. I choose lewmars #6,a couple of the old bolt holes lined up with the #6 but I had to fill a few old holes and drill a few new holes.

Or...

If you have lots of boat units you could just get a new set of 14ST or 16St to put on the coamings and leave what you have on the cabin.

I used the same backing on the coaming winches that Catalina used on the cabin top winches, large flat SS washers about a 1-1/2" diameter. I figured if they worked on the cabin top they would work on the coaming.

Ken,
Great Job! Don't know if you've used them yet but your gonna love that mod.

Edited by - Tom Potter on 12/07/2007 21:35:50

KBeazley
Deckhand

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USA
21 Posts

Response Posted - 12/07/2007 : 21:50:03

I kept the cabin top winches. On mine they are smaller in size. The life line post is backed by a plate for strength. Got the idea of winch install from Arlyn.

Defender Marine is where I purchased them on sale, still to much, around 350 each.

Three holes drilled, first to set the bolt pattern I used the base, then with it removed I oversized them, then finally after filling with epoxy to get a solid through hole with no wood exposed I drilled to size.

I like 5200 as a Locktite style holder plus prevents vibration loosening should not be a problem.

Hope this helps answer your questions. I have fabricated guide bunks today from galvinized pipe. Hope this helps in trailering the boat on windy days.

Ken

Edited by - on

frogger
Navigator

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USA
184 Posts

Response Posted - 12/08/2007 : 06:37:04

Halyards, thanks Frank, and a variety of other uses.

Edited by - on

willy
Captain

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USA
422 Posts

Response Posted - 12/12/2007 : 21:44:58

Ken,
Boy you leave for a couple of days and when you get back theres a ton of info!
Thank-you, Thank-you, Thank-you!
Willy

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