Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Just ordered a new sail from Rolly Tasker. .75 oz, star radial cut, 499 sq ft of fun. Got the douser sock with it. Anybody out there have thoughts on control line configuration? I was thinking of having an adjustible tack using a spring block forward of the RF drum, halyard and "douser" control line going back to the cockpit thru a deck organizer into a spinlock for ease of tacking/dousing/raising/lowering. Most that I have talked to use a tack pennant that can't be adjusted. Random Thoughts?
If you have any racing boats with a bow sprit (not that I think you need to add a sprit) such as a Beneteau 10R, Maybe a J105, etc. give them a good look. If you know the owners, have them take you out as ballast on a weeknight beercan race. There'd be some really solid examples of how to rig something similar for an adjustable Tack, gybing inside/outside the headstay etc.
What are the advantages of using them over someone like Ullman or Cruising Direct? Price? Performance? I am going to get new sails before the season starts, Main and a 150, full baton? Loose foot? I am just starting to research it. Any help would be appreciated.
First, let me say that we've had our C-25 for only a year and haven't had to buy sails for it yet. I suppose that the primary reason would be price, and I would buy them for cruising and local club fun racing. Depends on how you plan to use your boat. If I were going to seriously race the C-25, I would be looking at Ullman or Doyle, North, CD, and perhaps FX Sails. I have a C-22 for racing and use the Rolly's just for cruising sailing. I've got a set of Waters racing sails for it that I won in a reverse raffle at the Region 3 Regionals 2 years ago. Prior to that, the Rolly's were my newest and competitive sails. I don't know if you have priced sails yet. For the C-25, the std 150 from The Sail Warehouse is $650, while the performance 150 is $895. The std main is $550 and progresses up to the full-batten performance main at $1,050 (cloth is dacron and prices are per their web site today). I believe that National Sail sells the same product, and the prices are similar.
We too have had good experiences with Rolly Tasker sails. We bought a 70% storm jib from them. I'm impressed with the construction of the sail, the only thing I don't care for is the big orange dot that's up high in the sail. Supposedly it's to let the race committee that you've put up a storm jib, it seemed like a good idea at the time, but now it irks me a bit. Maybe I'll get used to it over time.
Scott, My only experience with an asymetrical has been on a Capri 26, and he had a fixed pennant. Also, all of his halyards, topping lift, outhaul/downhaul, cunningham, etc. are led aft to the cockpit to sheet stoppers. I would stick with the fixed pennant, at least while you get comfortable using the sail. You can always go to an adjustable one later. Running the halyard and douser line(s) back to the cockpit via a deck organizer sounds like a good idea. For the halyard I suggest using a completely different color to minimize confusion.
back to the original question- I have my asym on a fixed pennant, it's about a 10" long SS wire (previously installed by PO) the tack line certainly isn't too important cruising, but it does let the sail fill out a bit when trying to sail low. If and when I replace the fixed, I'll do exactly what you are thinking w/ a spring loaded block and a tack line, and will probably run it along the stanchions to a cam cleat low on the port side cabin wall. (I would love to get it to my cam cleats on the cabin top, just haven't found a good route yet that keeps the line off the forward hatch and out of the way- anyone have suggestions?) I have a 3-slot cam cleat on each side of the cabin top, and run all 3 halyards, boom vang, cunningham, and reefing line, so I'm full up there anyway. Would need to add another set of cam cleats for a dousing sock or tack line. I don't use a sock, I douse down the hatch usually with a retrieval line, but I think the sock would have its advantages short or single-handed.
I've used an adjustable penant on my asym for 10 years. I have a 2" swivel block attached to the stem fitting and, hmmmmm, I think 1/4" line aft to the cockpit. It works great. As the wind moves aft the sail tack is raised, providing more of a pocket. As the wind moves forward the tack is lowered, providing a more aerodynamic sail shape.
I have considered adding a sprit and code zero furler to get the tack out in fron of the boat and enable single handed deployment and retrieval. The expense makes the project cost prohibitive for me - around $4000. Getting the sail out in front of the boat allows you to sail more down wind than an asym generally allows.
Scott, My boat came with an asymm kite (gennaker) and a sock that make it relatively simple to handle single-handed if the breeze is under 15 knots and steady on a broad reach. My sail flies on a 4' stainless steel pennant.
It's always a thrill when the gennaker fills and the boat accelerates. I find that it only takes about 1 minute to set up and hoist the gennaker and about half a minute to douse. In dousing, it takes some athletic skill to climb up to and sit on the foredeck, untie the control line (big vertical loop), douse the sail into the sock while releasing the working sheet slowly, and then letting the sock down into the bag tied on the mast ring.
But the benefits of using this sail are speed and excitement, as well as giving everyone in sight a picturesque view of your boat. Be careful to avoid tangled control lines or sheets, since there can be a lot of force on them.
I neglected to mention that I run the sheets inside the forestay, and gybing is straightforward from the cockpit. It's a Sobstad sail, and it's gull-winged in the little photo below.
Frank & Duane, So then you know that I picked up an old boat in good condition with a new Ullman main and new Ullman 110 jib, a new storm jib, a good gennaker, a 2 year old Honda 9.9, a new tiller, and a new main cover and tiller cover for $4500.
What you had not heard is that there was also a new pop-top cover, a new Lifesling and retrieval tackle, and a plastic dinghy/toy boat. I also found the old roller furling jib with its 30' sunbrella zipper cover that I was able to make into 3 nice things: 1. A white bimini with a blue cotton liner, made with bamboo poles from our woods nearby. Cost about $40 for paint and PVC elbows, etc. 2. A blue sunbrella bimini cover with zipper. Cost $0. 3. A 5' riding sail made by joining the 3 corners of the old jib, that by this time was missing a rectangle from its center. With this sail I'm ready for my second thunderstorm downburst experience. Cost $0.
Yup, it's the same boat that Steve (77Gypsy) described. I have no info about PO's in Florida and before that Michigan. Does the Association have records back through the 1980's?
Regarding sail lofts -- there have been many threads on the subject. All lofts mentioned here are good companies and it seems to boil down to price and each buyers individual confidence. I have purchased from National (Rolly T) and Ullman/Ventura -- both were great experiences.
My interest is more how to "upgrade" rigging to take advantage of the newer sail materials/designs/concepts. While I am not a racer, the ability to shift from light air to moderate wind sailing -- easily and affordably -- is the challenge!
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.