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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
<font color="navy">Would like to lead a few select lines aft to make single handling easier. I've read through past threads and poured over pics but have some very basic questions. - Cunninghams are often pictured with a 2:1 or greater purchase. Why? Is this recommended? If so, why are reef lines usually rigged with no additional mechanical advantage?
- I use and like the stock 2-line reefing set up. The cost is the additional line to manage. Any arguments against running the clew reef line to a clutch on the cabin top and still terminate the tack reef line on the boom?
- any issue with cleating the jib dousing line on the side of the cabin near the jib halyard?
If it matters, I have a fixed boom and hank on headsails. Thanks.</font id="navy">
The cunningham is pulling against the tension of the main halyard, the reefing lines are pulled with the main halyard being released simultaneously. Therefore, no, or at least far less, resistance.
Most Cunninghams are at least 4:1 and 6:1 is probably better, the reason is you are tensioning against a fixed halyard. When reefing you release the halyard first so you do not need MA. My clew reef line goes to a clutch on the cabintop.
I think mine was at least 3 to 1. you are also tensioning against any wind load at that time.
Wouldn't you want to run a the tack reefing line to a clutch on the deck? The clew is already sitting right above your head in the cockpit. We didn't have a fore and aft set up on the 25. Even before we switched to a single reefed main we still had 1 line reefing for both reef points -
You mention not running the lines back because it is one more to manage? If you are sailing in the type of weather that requires a second reef often enough then if there is any one line to manage the reefing lines would be it. I'd want to manage before I start playing with a cunningham and leading that aft. If you rarely go out in weather like that, then you want it lead aft for comfort's sake if you do get caught in a blow.
As for the Jib Dousing Line - never had the need for one so I don't even have a clue how one might be rigged. I get the general concept of what they'd do but what's the advantage - merely to keep someone off the foredeck?
Gerry and Leslie, I ran my jib dousing line through stanchion-mounted eyes aft to a stanchion-mounted cleat at the forward end of the cockpit. That keeps the line out of the way of my clumsy feet, and that rig can be used as a reefing line should you ever convert to a roller furler, as I did.
Duane, the dousing line is a big help if you are caught in a sudden squall and need to get the jib down and keep it down. Fighting a jib on the foredeck of a C25 in (relatively) large seas is not my idea of fun.
Jib dousing line: On a boat with a hank-on headsail, when you are single-handing, that line can be VERY helpful, allowing you to take down the headsail, and securing it in the down position, without leaving the cockpit. If you race the boat, put a hook on the end of it and the same line can be used as your jib cunningham.
I have been thinking about a jib dousing line for exactly the reason you said, "...allowing you to take down the headsail, and securing it in the down position, without leaving the cockpit. "
What keeps the rest of the sail from flopping around? Is there really enough tension?
Steve: After hauling down the jib, tighten one of the sheets to pull it as far back as possible on the side-deck. It'll still flop around a little, but nose-to-wind it should stay out of the water. The most important thing is getting it all the way down and keeping it from climbing back up the forestay in a blow. You might want to throw a sail-tie on it when things are settled.
I agree with DaveB. If the wind/water is not too crazy, I'll sometimes go up and tie the lazy sheet around the sail with a slip knot that I can release later from the cockpit, if needed. That is usually enough on our lake.
Brooke - good idea about running the dousing line down the stanchions and would save putting any new holes in the gelcoat...will give it a try.
Duane - I can't seem to get shutterfly to cooperate this morning to post a figure from the manual, but to reef the luff on the stock set up it is necessary to go to the mast. The leech reef line is cleated on the boom from the cockpit. And yes I do appreciate my reef lines... got caught(once)too far from shelter in the down draft of a fast moving squall line.
Thanks all for responding re the cunningham. All this time I've been handling it like a reef point, i.e. setting the tension with the halyard. Live and learn.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.