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Ventilation options

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soulfinger
1st Mate

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USA
29 Posts

Initially Posted - 02/19/2008 : 21:28:50

The gulf coast is a humid place, and our cabin just doesn't dry out, since there's no inherent ventilation. So, I'm considering options to install some sort of vents. Two questions: what type, and where?

The most obvious place seems to be the cabin hatch in the bow--I was thinking of installing one of those solar-powered circulation fans there. We certainly get enough sunshine to keep it running. But for this to work properly, I need a vent somewhere else, so I can get in/out airflow. I'm not sure what to do, as I really don't want to resort to cutting big holes in the cabin top. I've thought about making a custom companionway board with some sort of weather proof vent---would this be the best option? Any ideas? Do any of your cabins experience this much humidity?

Edited by - on

JohnMD
Navigator

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USA
207 Posts

Response Posted - 02/20/2008 : 06:24:53

I just put a new Nicro solar vent in my forward hatch. I had the same concerns about whether I had enough ventilation for the thing to work properly. It works great without any additional vents. I think there's enough air coming in thru the kitchen and bathroom drains along with what leaks around the hatch door that it works. It will make a very noticeable difference in the humidity levels inside the boat. The boat also seems to smell better.

Edited by - on

lewalskim
1st Mate

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USA
70 Posts

Response Posted - 02/20/2008 : 06:53:53

Andy,

I plan on installing a 4" Nicro Solar Vent in my hatch in the next month or so. I also bought this SS vent from Boaters World with intentions of putting it in the companionway hatch with some nylon screen material sandwiched between it and the hatch. I will probably put it low in the hatch so my canvas cover won't impede airflow.

I've got stainless screws and cap nuts for the installation.

Edited by - on

welshoff
Captain

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USA
253 Posts

Response Posted - 02/20/2008 : 10:17:25

I put a day/night Nicro vent in my forward hatch. It makes a noticeable difference in the cabin. I don't think you need any passive vents. It seams to draw the air out of the cabin and keep humidity down and also keeps cabin fresher smelling. Even up here in the cloudy PNW the little fan runs almost all the time.

If you still want passive vents - Do a search in the archives - someone installed passive vents through the coming pockets. It was a nice installation.

Edited by - on

Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts

Response Posted - 02/20/2008 : 14:15:32

We put our Nicro solar vent in the cabin roof. It does a nice job of moving air.

Edited by - Nautiduck on 02/20/2008 14:15:57

soulfinger
1st Mate

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USA
29 Posts

Response Posted - 02/26/2008 : 21:41:32

Cool. I'll start with a vent in the hatch, and if I still need more, I'll go from there.

The big question: what's the best way to cut a hole in my hatch?

Edited by - on

Bubba
Admiral

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USA
542 Posts

Response Posted - 02/27/2008 : 18:51:13

I recommend a rotary cutting tool/spiral saw. There are a number of brands. This happens to be a cordless one I found online. Not intended as a product recommendation.

Edited by - on

Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts

Response Posted - 02/27/2008 : 19:28:34

I used a hole saw and my cordless drill. Takes no skill to get a perfect round hole.

When you get ready to drill, tape a cardboard box or a paper bag under the hatch where you are drilling the hole. Tape it directly to the bottom of the hatch and tape the entire edge of the box/bag. Then when you drill, the dust and debris goes right into the box/bag and really eases cleanup.

Edited by - on

Tom Potter
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1913 Posts

Response Posted - 02/27/2008 : 20:41:11

Guess I'll add another option. I used a regular old jig saw. I placed masking tape over the area I planned to cut, then traced out the circle on the masking tape. Using drill with a bit large enough for the jig saw blade to fit in and drilled a starter hole. Then using the jig saw, I cut out the hole. As Randy said, put something under the hatch to catch the fiberglass.

Edited by - on

JohnMD
Navigator

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USA
207 Posts

Response Posted - 02/27/2008 : 21:16:19

I used a rotary saw with a hole cutting attachment. It's like cutting a hole with a compass (the drawing kind). You drill a small hole in the middle of where you want the hole, stick the pin end in there and cut the hole. Cuts a perfect hole and takes away a lot of the sweating. I used a Sears brand but I'm sure there are many others out there.

Edited by - on

John Russell
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3444 Posts

Response Posted - 02/28/2008 : 08:44:04

Wear an adequate respirator. If you inhale fiberglass, you WILL NEVER get rid of it. It will embed itself the same way asbestos fibers do. Bad thing.

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 02/28/2008 : 14:40:31

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by JohnMD
 I used a rotary saw with a hole cutting attachment. It's like cutting a hole with a compass (the drawing kind). You drill a small hole in the middle of where you want the hole, stick the pin end in there and cut the hole. Cuts a perfect hole and takes away a lot of the sweating. I used a Sears brand but I'm sure there are many others out there.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I have always called those a "whirlygig" bit, I use one often.

Edited by - on

soulfinger
1st Mate

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USA
29 Posts

Response Posted - 02/28/2008 : 18:33:19

Sounds easy enough!

Good call on the respirator. How "fancy" of one will I need? I imagine a standard foam mask will do--the partiulates from cutting fiber glass can't be that small, compared to doing something like cutting Hardi-plank, which produces silica dust (very small stuff).

Edited by - on

John Russell
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3444 Posts

Response Posted - 02/28/2008 : 18:45:41

I'd use the best one I can afford.

Edited by - on

jerlim
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1484 Posts

Response Posted - 03/06/2008 : 11:36:57

I put the solar fan through the deck over the head...our companionway top board has slits already milled for air flow.

Edited by - jerlim on 03/06/2008 11:37:32

soulfinger
1st Mate

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USA
29 Posts

Response Posted - 03/23/2008 : 13:22:46

Well--it's done! I successfully put a round-ish hole in my forward hatch with a cordless jigsaw, and set the mount for my nicro solar fan with 3M 5200 last weekend. It's nice that the fan is removable, and comes with cover for the port, in case you want to get it out of the way. I wasn't able to put the fan in last week, because the 5200 was still wet, and I feared gluing the fan into place. We went back down yesterday, had a great sail (until the wind died). I put the fan in the hole and off it went. The wife and I attacked all the mildew in the cabin with bleach and other products....hopefully, with increased ventilation it won't be back. I may still make a new companionway board with a weather-proof vent to allow for better circulation. I'll also put a hole in for an extension cord (poorman's shore power).

Thanks for everyone's advice on my first "invasive" boat project.

Edited by - soulfinger on 03/23/2008 13:24:12

Turk
Admiral

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USA
736 Posts

Response Posted - 03/26/2008 : 22:11:46

[quote]Originally posted by soulfinger
 The wife and I attacked all the mildew in the cabin with bleach and other products....hopefully, with increased ventilation it won't be back. I may still make a new companionway board with a weather-proof vent to allow for better circulation.

Does Bleach Really Kill Mold?

Will chlorine bleach kill mold or not—yes or no? The answer is yes, but with a caveat. That answer comes from The Clorox Company, Oakland CA, manufacturer and distributor of Ultra Clorox® Regular Bleach. The company’s correspondence to Spore°Tech Mold Investigations, LLC stated that their Tech Center studies supported by independent laboratories show that “…3/4 cup of Clorox liquid bleach per gallon of water will be effective on hard, non-porous surfaces against… Aspergillus niger and Trichophyton mentagrophytes (Athlete’s Foot Fungus)”. Whether or not chlorine bleach kills other molds and fungi, the company did not say. The “hard, non-porous surfaces” part of the sentence is a caveat. Mold remediation involves the need to disinfect wood and wood-based building materials, all of which are porous materials. Thus, chlorine bleach should not be used in mold remediation as confirmed by OSHA’s and EPA's updated recommendations and suggested guidelines. The use of bleach as a mold disinfectant is best left to kitchen and bathroom countertops, tubs and shower glass, etc.

Why Chlorine Bleach is NOT Recommended for Mold Remediation.
Clorine bleach is corrosive and that fact is stated on the product label (not to mention the exposure hazards of dioxins). Yet the properties of chlorine bleach prevent it from “soaking into” wood-based building materials to get at the deeply embedded mycelia (roots) of mold. The object to killing mold is to kill its “roots”. Reputable mold remediation contractors use appropriate products that effectively disinfect properly scrubbed and cleaned salvageable mold infected wood products. Beware of any mold inspector, mold remediation contractor or other individual that recommends or uses chlorine bleach for mold clean up on wood-based building materials.

Chlorine Bleach Is Active Ingredient in New Mold & Mildew Products.
The appearance of new mold and mildew household products on store shelves is on the rise. Most are dilute solutions of laundry bleach. The labels on these mold and mildew products state that they are for use on (again) hard, non-porous surfaces and not for wood-based materials. Instructions where not to apply the products are varied. A few examples where the branded products should not be applied include wood or painted surfaces, aluminum products, metal (including stainless steel), faucets, marble, natural stone, and, of course, carpeting, fabrics and paper. One commercial mold and mildew stain remover even specifically states it should not be applied to porcelain or metal without immediate rinsing with water and that the product isn’t recommended for use on formica or vinyl.

Caveat Emptor!
Before purchasing a mold and mildew product, read and fully understand the advertised purpose of that product — and correctly follow the use instructions of a purchased product. The labeling claims on these new products can be confusing — some say their product is a mold and mildew remover while another says their product is a mildew stain remover and yet others make similar 'ambiguous' claims. Make double sure that the product satisfies your intended need on the surface to which it is to be applied. If your intention is to kill mold, make sure the product does exactly that and follow the directions for usage. Consumers may find that mixing their own diluted bleach solution will achieve the same results when used on surfaces recommended by manufacturers of commericial mold and mildew cleaning products — keep in mind that the use of chlorine bleach is not for use on mold infected wood products including wall board, ceiling tiles, wall studs, fabric, paper products, etc.

Conclusion.
Laundry bleach is not an effective mold killing agent for wood-based building materials and NOT EFFECTIVE in the mold remediation process. OSHA is the first federal agency to announce a departure from the use of chlorine bleach in mold remediation. In time, other federal, state and other public safety agencies are expected to follow OSHA’s lead. The public should be aware, however, that a chlorine bleach solution IS an effective sanitizing product that kills mold on hard non porous surfaces and neutralizes indoor mold allergens that trigger allergies.

Edited by - on

soulfinger
1st Mate

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USA
29 Posts

Response Posted - 03/29/2008 : 17:05:18

Hmmm...well, I'd say that fiberglass certainly counts as a hard, non-porous surface. As for moldy wood...not sure there. I'll have to do some research but I will likely keep on using bleach until I find something better. Suggestions?

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 03/29/2008 : 17:14:45

Bleach works fine--the Clorox folks are protecting themselves from liability suits from people who get ill from black mold. Fiberglass itself isn't much of a host for mold, but a little dirt or scum on it is. Wipe down the interior at least once a year with diluted bleach, keep a solar vent working, and you should be happy.

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