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Re-sealing forward hatch '89 plexi

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Scooter
Navigator

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USA
228 Posts

Initially Posted - 03/02/2008 : 08:57:01

I am trying to re-seal the forward hatch but not having any luck. I have searched the archives but I haven't found what I'm looking for.

Issue: The hinges are in the way so if it's leaking under the hinges you have to remove them to get underneath (or behind) them. I can't seem to get the screws loose. (I know... I already have a screw loose but quit talking to my wife.) If I could get the hinges off I could probably get enough sealant around the frame to do enough.

I would really like to remove the whole thing and do it right but I can't seem to get the frame loose either. I haven't tried prying it yet because I DO NOT want to bend the frame. I have tried wire as a saw and have some luck but before I go too far I am wondering if anybody has replace/resealed the forward hatch on an '89? Heating it, solvents, etc... ???? It's the smoked plexi hatch with the 2 dogs and an aluminum frame. It's probably original??? The P.O. put silicone around the edge but it looks iffy and I never trust simple silicone for very long.

I think it's leaking because I've tried everything else and the 2 lamps in the forward compartment keep getting this brown drip running inside the plastic pop-off bulb cover. It has to be coming in the hole for the wire. The only thing left is the pulpit (re-sealed last year), the anchor locker (also re-sealed last year), and the mast base (Re-sealed 2 years ago). The teak is also re-sealed. The forward hatch is the next best bet. The leak is small but annoying.

Any thoughts?

Scooter
C25 '89 SR/WK #5878 "Square Knot"
Vandemere NC.

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 03/02/2008 : 10:41:56

I attempted to remove and reseat mine when I got my '89. I gave up, it looked like it was headed to a scary place. I put a clean neat bead around the deck ring but did not want a ring of caulk around the "glass" so I bought a sunbrella cover for the hatch. I have had no leaks since and the v-berth no longer suffers from solar gain. I bought the version with insulation, it is quilted layers of silver mylar on the inside of the sunbrella.

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Jefffriday
Navigator

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USA
198 Posts

Response Posted - 03/02/2008 : 14:44:46

I have an 89 sr/wk who's hatch appeared to be leaking. The frame looked like it was seated well and sealed, but after reall close examination I found the leak was between the hatch itself and the frame. Mostly due to a 3/8 inch gap along the hinge side. The only thing I could figure is that the hatch never was quite right. It's possible the seal on the hatch was better at one point, but the gar it fills is not uniform around the hatch.

So I replaced the bugger. I took , 2X4s, and put one across the top (with hatch open) that sits on the fiberglass ridges on either side of the hatch frame ( I put a piece of towel between, to protect the gelcoat) The other one inside, cut so it only catch's the frame on the inside. Using several Large C-clamps I worked this up and down and loosened the frame from the boat (all fastners obviously remove first) It was really well sealed, I doubt it would have ever leaked. One problem I had with the new Hatch I put in, from Catalina Direct, was the distance between the hinges was closer, by about 1/2 inch than my old one, as well as the "cutouts" in the boat. I ended up taking 3/16" off each hinge to make it work.

Anyway, Check it out real good before you go too far with resealing the frame. And if you do need to pull the frame out to reseal, the method I used worked quite well, just go a little at a time until it loose all the way around. You can leave outside board horizontal (parralel to hinge line) and turn the inside board to free up the hinge and forward edge. Hope that made sense, it really was easy once I got the idea. The old hatch came out looking good except for the problem I was having.

Edited by - on

Jefffriday
Navigator

Members Avatar

USA
198 Posts

Response Posted - 03/02/2008 : 14:46:30

I have an 89 sr/wk who's hatch appeared to be leaking. The frame looked like it was seated well and sealed, but after really close examination I found the leak was between the hatch itself and the frame. Mostly due to a 3/8 inch gap along the hinge side. The only thing I could figure is that the hatch never was quite right. It's possible the seal on the hatch was better at one point, but the gar it fills is not uniform around the hatch.

So I replaced the bugger. I took , 2X4s, and put one across the top (with hatch open) that sits on the fiberglass ridges on either side of the hatch frame ( I put a piece of towel between, to protect the gelcoat) The other one inside, cut so it only catch's the frame on the inside. Using several Large C-clamps I worked this up and down and loosened the frame from the boat (all fastners obviously remove first) It was really well sealed, I doubt it would have ever leaked. One problem I had with the new Hatch I put in, from Catalina Direct, was the distance between the hinges was closer, by about 1/2 inch than my old one, as well as the "cutouts" in the boat. I ended up taking 3/16" off each hinge to make it work.

Anyway, Check it out real good before you go too far with resealing the frame. And if you do need to pull the frame out to reseal, the method I used worked quite well, just go a little at a time until it loose all the way around. You can leave outside board horizontal (parralel to hinge line) and turn the inside board to free up the hinge and forward edge. Hope that made sense, it really was easy once I got the idea. The old hatch came out looking good except for the problem I was having.

Edited by - on

Jefffriday
Navigator

Members Avatar

USA
198 Posts

Response Posted - 03/02/2008 : 14:47:11

I have an 89 sr/wk who's hatch appeared to be leaking. The frame looked like it was seated well and sealed, but after really close examination I found the leak was between the hatch itself and the frame. Mostly due to a 3/8 inch gap along the hinge side. The only thing I could figure is that the hatch never was quite right. It's possible the seal on the hatch was better at one point, but the gar it fills is not uniform around the hatch.

So I replaced the bugger. I took 2 2X4s, and put one across the top (with hatch open) that sits on the fiberglass ridges on either side of the hatch frame ( I put a piece of towel between, to protect the gelcoat) The other one inside, cut so it only catch's the frame on the inside. Using several Large C-clamps I worked this up and down and loosened the frame from the boat (all fastners obviously remove first) It was really well sealed, I doubt it would have ever leaked. One problem I had with the new Hatch I put in, from Catalina Direct, was the distance between the hinges was closer, by about 1/2 inch than my old one, as well as the "cutouts" in the boat. I ended up taking 3/16" off each hinge to make it work.

Anyway, Check it out real good before you go too far with resealing the frame. And if you do need to pull the frame out to reseal, the method I used worked quite well, just go a little at a time until it loose all the way around. You can leave outside board horizontal (parralel to hinge line) and turn the inside board to free up the hinge and forward edge. Hope that made sense, it really was easy once I got the idea. The old hatch came out looking good except for the problem I was having.

Edited by - on

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Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.