Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Anybody that tells you you cannot put gel-coat over epoxy is just uninformed. It's done all the time. I say that tongue in cheek. I hear people tell me you cannot put gel coat over epoxy.
There is no easy way to replace the core around the window openings without it being a big job. You could just fill in about 2" around the perimeter with wood and epoxy. That should be good enough. The core in the walls is not adhered 100% anyway. When these boats were built, Catalina just used some globs of polyester resin thickened with wood flour here and there in the coach sides. The adhesion from the factory is spotty. If you look through the sides of the walls, you'll see the huge voids in there. If you just make good the perimeter of the windows it should be good enough to put your windows back in. I used 4mm okoume.
If you are re-installing the metal framed windows, finish the interior of the opening using unthickened epoxy with pigment added.
HappyD, Thanks for all the great information with this. I am starting to feel like I've some realistic ideas coming together.
I am not going to put the aluminum windows back in. I don't like them, and mine are such a mess, (bent, mangled, corroded, etc...) they would have to be replaced. Not cheap I'm sure.
Instead, I'm going to put some dark Lexan over the outside. I was thinking that a good 2-3 inch core "border" around each window should suffice, rather than the elaborate job you did. Still pondering that one.
Matt, Make sure the outside skins of fiberglass are parallel. The Plexiglas will need a flat plane to sit on or it will crack. The coach sides have a curve to them fore and aft, but they need to be parallel from top to bottom across the window opening.
Also, I cannot find dark tinted polycarbonate, (Lexan). The stuff I ordered and bought is only tinted light grey, like a car window. Polycarbonate will craze in the sun from UV.
Plexiglas, is acrylic and it better for the UV. I like the 115-0 from Cyro that is very dark. It has 7% emissivity. But I can't find any unless I buy 6 full sheets, minimum order. However, 2074 is very common and has 13% emissivity.
I have a half a sheet of Lexan if you want to buy it.
Thanks again for the good info. I am going to ask around locally to see what/where people get this stuff. I saw in your online article about making the window edges parallel to each other. I'll probably be "borrowing" that idea. But once I find supplies, have a list and a real plan, I'll probably make another post on here to see if people have any last suggestions. With the holidays and such, I probably won't get to this until the end of January or even Feb. It's the nicest time of year here right now, so I'd rather spend time sailing then fixing anyway.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.