Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
After looking into many replacement ideas for my CP 25, I chose to go with, MARK PLASTICS, 369 E Harrison St., Unit G, Corona, CA.92879 PH. 951 735 7705, Fax: 951 735 0701. Recommended to me by Catalina.They made EXACT copies of originals, (in white only). Sent them my complete old ones for exact fit. Covered holes w/ plywood cutouts, painted and sealed w/ through bolts inserted 8" from each end and centered. Worked well. I was told that a paper template was okay but preferred sending originals. Fit perfectly and look fantastic. Think about contacting them. ABRAXIS
If it is not to much to ask: What did you pay for those? Mine need some work and I'm trying to decide what is the best way to go. I made a cover that covers the whole cabin and windows to get me thru this winter, but the windows leak badly so that is on my list for when the weather turns a little warmer.
rick berry replaced his, I think he spent about 500. I rebuilt mine last year, the rebuild is messy and you have to keep everything clean, but the rebuild cost 25 bucks, my leaks are now coming from the inboard track. You might check this and my chain plates leaked also. I am guessing I have 2 gallons in our boat, I have not checked on it sense november.
When I was washing my boat, scrubbing the cabin top around the windows and then rinsing with a sprayer on the hose I had a little drip coming in on both front windows. The rubber snap in strip gasket on the outside that holds the glass in the frame is shrinking and plulling away at the corners. I'm not sure what the best way to fix that is.
I have removed the rubber window gaskets and soaked them in very hot water with dishwashing liquid. This seemed to make them more flexible and fit the windows better. I also removed the frame inside and filled the gap under the frame with double sided butyl tape. This seemed to stop the small leaks that I had. Chuck
I think it was $606.00 taxed & shipped. I felt like the shipping cost was rather steep, but when someone has a monopoly over the immediate fabrication and distribution of a product, then they can basically name their own price. I do have to say that the windows were of high quality, well crafted, stout material and came with tools, butyl tape, and great instructions for installation. Having no leaks was worth the cost.
The cost of the windows was $170.00 per window plus shipping. I have pictures but for some reason I cannot attach them. If interested, send me your email address and I will foward them. sumfun1944@verizon.net ABRAXIS
I too had/have problems with my windows. The gasket that holds the glass in did shrink, I boiled it and stretched it out but it shrinks again. I tried to rebed the windows but that did not work too well. I am going to try again this year as well as solve some mystery leaks from the deck.
One thing I noticed on my boat is that the window frame has a double track. One channel/track holds the glass window and the second track/or channel had nothing more than a useless strip of plastic around it but served no purpose. My thinking was that when these were built they chose frames that were used on other boat manufacturers.
Any advantages or disadvantages of available replacement windows of the two that were previously mentioned?
Thanks in advance
I am trying to decide whether or not to replace them, repair them and if I replace them
I think I am going to try Chuck's solution with the double sided butyl rubber tape. I will check around to see if I can find the gasket material. My Ford minivan side windows have the same type of gasket(which is also shrinking)so it must be available. At least it is worth a try. I'm having a really hard time thinking about spending over $600 on something that doesn't make the boat go faster or sail better. There are soooooooo many way to do that. $80 worth of Sunbrella fabric and a little time made a nice cover that covers the whole cabin top and that solved my leak problem. Also made new cushion covers. I'd still like to get those little drips fixed on the windows so at least they don't leak when I'm washing the boat before we put the cushions back in.
Chris - Thanks for the heads up on the tape making a mess
In the window leak repair instructions drawing from Catalina it is showing a bead of silicon on the outside of the glass. Mine doesn't have that, it has a rubber snap in gasket. That is the problem, because it is shrinking. Also the drawing is showing a small vinyl extrusion on the backside of the glass. It doesn't look like mine has that. Looks like the glass is flat against the frame. That is where I was thinking of using the butyl tape and then setting the glass into it.
Dan, I have taken one (1) of the windows apart on the Capri 25. After removing the screws, i popped the window unit out with little pressure. I then proceeded to take the small screw holding the frame together and splitting the frame apart to remove the glass. I have both the outer rubber that holds the window into place, then the interior rubber gasket that does absoultly nothing. The old silicon holding the window to the frame is where the problem is going to happen, along with the glass and the extrusion. The fiberglass is going to expand and contract during heat and cold cycles, then the glass is going to move due to the aluminum frame expanding during hot days. The gaskets on our boat are shrunken to the point they have about a 1" gap now between them.
I did a pretty fast and crappy rebuild on this window, but it doesn't leak now. I am going to look into the different caulk out on the market to find the right one that will hold a bond but will move with the contraction of the fiberglass. After fixing the one window I chalked the interior wall of the boat to find more leaks.
My chainplate bolts were letting a small drip inot the cabin space, and the biggest problem was both T-Tracks. The outer t-track acts like a gutter, the water runs from the bow of the boat hits the track and runs down the edge untill the small hole to let the water run out by the shrouds. This hole gets cloged with all kinds of crap, and we really need several of these down the sides. The other track (inboard Genoa) was leaking where the water would get trapped between the cabin house and the track. Again this was a poor design and this track in my eyes needs to be raised a small amount to let the water run off in this area.
I have another couple of leaks around the boat I still have not found yet, but over the winter I did not go up to the boat for 4 months. I have 2" of water in the lower builge area, meaning I have still work to be done. One is the opening on the companionway hatch boards, I am planning on adding a solar fan on the boat so when I cut my new plexiglass hatch I will leave this opening out for venting.
Next is back at the quarter birth storage areas. I still have nightmares about this area along with the crappy design of the aft bulkheads. I think this year this area will be my main focus. It just scares me that if the boat goes over that the hatches will still flood the cabin. I am thinking about a double bulkhead area, and a fiberglass storage box.
The storage box would be inserted into the storage area and sealed up so little water can inter this area. The new bulkhead I want to run the lenth of the cockpit area making the center part under the cockpit its own storage area by adding a hatch under the traveler for access.
Next I want to replace the old bulkhead with a little more beefy material. The 1/4" bulkheads right now are prone to rot and flexing, This are I would like to make water tight as well, and add another access panel for long sail bags. I think this is the perfect are for sail storage.
Thanks so much for that diagram/graphic of the window. That is exactly the type of window/leak situation that I have.
I have the little gasket that holds the glass in so I will try the silicone trick.
Does anyone have a recommendation for cleaning the glass and frame up of the old caulk and rtv? I have tried to rebed these once already and it was not successful as the hole in the cabin was almost too big for the frames which left little margin for slippage of the frame, in other words, the frame has too much wiggle room in the hole of the cabin top. I know to scrape off the old stuff is a pain and I have tried, rubbing alcohol, MEK, acetone and it still is a hard battle. I am thinking of freezing the frames to see if that would free up the gunk. Anyone have ideas?
A fellow Capri owner here in Austin said he had success using a bernzomatic hand held butane torch to burn out the old caulk and gunk. I haven't tried it but I'd guess you'd have to be careful with the fumes and to not over heat the aluminum. John
Has anyone just removed the windows and replaced with single plexiglass? My Santana just has a glass with beveled trim. It is siliconed around and screwed in.
I fixed my windows last year with good sucess using GE UltraGlaze Silicone Structural Glazing Sealant. I think the whole project took 4 tubes. - Remove and disassemble the windows and clean the frames. I had mine sandblasted and powdercoated. - Throw all the vinyl gaskets in the garbage - Assemble the clean glass and frame with a generous bead of ultraglaze to set the glass to the aluminum. put some goo between the halves of the frames and on the screws. - Put some weights on the glass and let the window set up enough so that the glass no longer moves. - Fill the rest of the space inside the frame with the goo and tool in a nice radius with a plastic spoon. - clean up the extra goo and let cure for a few days. - install the windows back in the boat with 3-M 4200. - Go sailing.
My Capri #433 has single plexiglass sheet glued and screwed to the cabin shell with no aluminum frame. I'm presuming this was a factory change and not an aftermarket modification. I've never seen a leak from this installation. Does anyone else with a later model boat have a similar installation?
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.