Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
OK....the threads of my lifting hole are sloppy and I'm starting to feel like im pushing my luck. I have taken a piece of 1/2 inch thick stainless 4"x12" and drilled it to go over the aft 3 keel bolts. Then I welded a 1-5/8 diameter by 2" long piece of stainless steel to the bottom so that it fits down the clearance hole then drilled and tapped a 1" thread through the assembly. Now the question is will the back 3 keel bolts support the entire weight of the boat?
Seems like a safe bet to me, but I'm no structural engineer or boat builder. Have you tried talking to someone at Catalina to get a better understanding how the keel attachment bolts may have been set into the keel? I can't imagine that the keel studs are not embedded mechanically into the lead keel similar to the way the lifting bushing is embedded. If a single bushing can support the weight of the boat by being embedded into the keel then I would presume that 3 keel boats would at least be equivalent. That said, I'd sure like to get confirmation of this from a boat builder with some experience on how these keels are built before experimenting. Good Luck!
Has anyone lifted their boat with the mast up? I tried with what I considered equal weight distributed around lift point.Set up as Capri illustrated in guide references.
Not a good idea for me! Wanted to tip to starboard. Luck was with me as I had only lifted it appx. 3" five friends with me at the lift balanced it off and guided it back into trailer. Had all five friends not been there to jump right in, don't want to even think about it.
Went to 8" nylon straps that my YC has there to lift boats.
I've lifted mine many times using the single 1/2 inch socket that is bolted into the keel in my boat. I've done it both with the mast up and down. Seems like some boats had a strap, and some had the socket. I generally unload all the stuff from down below prior to lifting to minimize imbalances from front to back and left to right. Then I just tie straps from the hoist chain to the port and starboard cabin top winches or out to a stanchion, and similar lines fore and aft to hold the boat in a reasonable balance. The lifting harness that is shown in the architectural diagrams has steel cables for these functions integrated into the harness. A friend of mine has one of those and I've used that successfully also. Of course, you don't want to assume because it works for my boat it works for yours. Use common sense and at least a 3000 lb portion of caution when lifting your boat.
Brad, I had the same problem when I bought my boat. The threads were a little rusty and there was some play when the eye bolt was screwed in. It was probably fine, but I just didn't want to take the chance. I had a metal fabricator make a plate just like what you're talking about. I had seen this idea online and I know the Capri 22's use a similar set up. The fabricator used a piece of SS approx. 4" X 12" X 1/2". cut a hole right over where the threads are in the keel, and welded a 1" thread nut in the hole. It worked out perfectly. Here is a picture.
Looking at the picture, I remember he also doubled up the SS around where the nut is welded in. That 4x4 square is 1" thick. The nut you see in the picture is an extra nut I put on the eye bold before threading it into the plate. Once the eye is all the way down, I lock it in place with the nut on top. Probably not needed, but makes me feel better.
I got the basic idea from the documents on this website. I think it was in the manuals and brochures area.
Hi Scott, Your rig is exactly the same as what I made. I guess im good to give it a shot. Thanks!
ABRAXIS, I lift my boat at least twice a month for bottom washing. This is always done with the rig up. You need to tie your jib sheets to the lifting sling and run them to your primary winches. Then with the lift sling tight, grind the winches to pull the sling off of the sliding hatch about 3-4" and centered you may need to adjust the winches until you get a good lift. Make sure you lift a little bow down so the crane doesn't hit the mast. Good Luck.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.