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Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts

Initially Posted - 04/12/2008 : 10:54:42

Had to post this. I just love the way a new coat of VC17M looks!

That's $150 worth of paint!

We cannot direct the winds but we can adjust our sails.

Edited by - Nautiduck on 04/12/2008 10:56:04

piseas
Former Treasurer

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USA
2017 Posts

Response Posted - 04/12/2008 : 11:39:04

Randy, I am impressed. You are hired!
Steve A

Edited by - on

John Russell
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3444 Posts

Response Posted - 04/12/2008 : 13:22:10

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Nautiduck
 Had to post this. I just love the way a new coat of VC17M looks!

That's $150 worth of paint!

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">The $150 is the easy part. She looks great.

Edited by - on

DaveR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2015 Posts

Response Posted - 04/12/2008 : 13:38:41

Oh that's pretty!

Edited by - on

Renzo
Admiral

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USA
621 Posts

Response Posted - 04/12/2008 : 15:20:42

It's a shame to put it in the water! Why don't you just park it in front of the house all summer to class up the neighborhood

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 04/12/2008 : 15:49:49

Lovely! I might buy some of that VC-stuff to finish my interior teak!

Edited by - on

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 04/12/2008 : 17:22:11

Almost pretty enough to be "nauti." Very nicely done.

Edited by - on

Steve Blackburn
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
1091 Posts

Response Posted - 04/12/2008 : 21:00:36

I'm also moving ahead pretty good on removing my ablative. Can't wait to paint on my VC-17. Looks great Randy. What about under the pads? I was thinking that one could go to a launch, dip the boat just enough to back it up about 1 pad length then retrieve, dry pad spots, paint, launch boat. Is that what you do?

Is there a time limit to leave the VC-17 dry like this or it doesn't really matter? I think my boat will be sitting on the trailer with it's new VC-17 for about 1 month.

Since this is not a new application, why 3 pints of VC-17 ($150)? I thought you told me I would have enough with 3 pints on my bare bottom? Maybe I should go with more?

What color have you chosen? I'm thinking of going with the dark blue.

Edited by - Steve Blackburn on 04/12/2008 21:05:47

Chris Z
Captain

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452 Posts

Response Posted - 04/12/2008 : 21:24:36

Did you put on VCTar. I understood that you have to use it before using VC-17.

Edited by - on

Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts

Response Posted - 04/12/2008 : 23:48:00

VC17 does not need VC Tar. One of the wonderful things about VC17 is that there is no sanding or anything each year. Just clean the bottom and paint. Initial coating is recommended at 3 coats. One coat thereafter each year. I know that some people seem to get more out of a quart than I do but it took 2 1/2 quarts to put on one coat. I used the rest of the 3rd can to double up the rudder, keel, waterline and leading edges. Yes, I keep the paint in a closed container and only pour enough for a roller full or two.

I use the regular (copper) color. I don't worry about the small areas under the pads or under the keel. It isn't a race boat.

Our lake is not a high growth area (VC17 is for low growth waters) so I just don't worry about those spots. It would be easy enough to wipe those areas with a rag during the season but I don't. I know of no time limit prior to launch. I'm usually in within a week or two.

Edited by - Nautiduck on 04/12/2008 23:49:32

Steve Blackburn
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
1091 Posts

Response Posted - 04/13/2008 : 00:34:31

Isn't regular Charcoal Gray? I mean the color once immersed.

I read somewhere a tip on using one of those plastic Ketchup bottles with a snap top to pour the VC-17 on the roller as you need it. No pan. I wonder if that can "stretch" it a little longer.

I might as well plan for 5 quarts. Sorry about using the word "pint" earlier, in French a quart is a pint.

Edited by - Steve Blackburn on 04/13/2008 00:39:01

Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts

Response Posted - 04/13/2008 : 09:06:27

Yes, it turns gray. Personally, I don't think you can mix it in a ketchup container. I use a 1 quart plastic paint type container that I buy at a local home improvement place for about $2. The VC17M comes with a packet of copper powder and I would not want to be trying to pour it down the narrow neck of a ketchup bottle and then mixing it in with the rest of the paint. Maybe if you used a funnel it would work. I do see the value of pouring the paint from the container right onto the roller and will try that next time. Also be sure to keep mixing the stuff as you go, the copper wants to settle.

When are you Canadians going to abandon that old metric system and join the modern world?

Edited by - on

stampeder
Master Marine Consultant

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1608 Posts

Response Posted - 04/13/2008 : 13:43:14

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">When are you Canadians going to abandon that old metric system and join the modern world? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Right after we convert our cars and trucks from left side to right side drives.

Edited by - on

stampeder
Master Marine Consultant

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1608 Posts

Response Posted - 04/13/2008 : 13:45:20

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">What about under the pads? I was thinking that one could go to a launch, dip the boat just enough to back it up about 1 pad length then retrieve, dry pad spots, paint, launch boat. Is that what you do?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Good idea. Check with Interlux first, but I don't think you need to let it dry longer than a couple minutes.

Edited by - on

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 04/13/2008 : 14:11:08

Randy,
My experience with VC 17 is that the coat over the top of the old coat doesn't stick very well. I touched up the coat on on my boat with a quart before putting it into the marina last year, and pretty much everything that was touched up simply disappeared over time. I know that they say that you can paint right over it, but I'm so sure that's really such a good idea.

I'm planning on soda blasting my hull, and putting on Pettit Trinidad SR. According to yard birds and owners who've used it that we've talked to, this is the best bottom paint for the area we're in. You can expect to get at least two years out of it, possibly three. It's not a racing paint like VC 17, but since I'm not likely to race much, the Trinidad should work just fine for us.

I have to agree with you though, the paint looks glorious going on, and the copper does want to settle out. It cleans up well with methanol if you spill.

Edited by - on

GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4304 Posts

Response Posted - 04/13/2008 : 20:36:28

Where do you get methanol?

Edited by - on

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 04/13/2008 : 21:30:36

HD or Lowes sells it in quart & gallon cans. You can get a gallon for around $10.

Edited by - on

Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts

Response Posted - 04/13/2008 : 22:44:19

I cleaned drips off the trailer with mineral spirits. Also, I have not had the problem of the new coat not sticking to the old.

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 04/14/2008 : 07:28:54

I, too, have not had any problems with subsequent coats of VC17 adhering to the previous coat, but a friend of mine experienced flaking of the newer coat after the second season. He said he followed the instructions verbatim, but something went amiss.

Edited by - on

Renzo
Admiral

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USA
621 Posts

Response Posted - 04/14/2008 : 09:02:10

As for adhesion problems, I ususally wipe down the bottom with VC-17 solvent on a sponge mop just before applying the new coat of VC-17. It removes any oils,grease or wax that may have accumulated on the bottom from being washed down the side of the boat by rain or other cleaning tasks.

Edited by - on

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 04/14/2008 : 09:43:20

We probably should have done exactly that, although I'd use methanol @ $10/gallon as opposed to VC thinner (almost certainly mostly methanol or ethanol judging by the smell) at whatever that is per pint. We'd pressure washed, then scrubbed the hull before painting, but we experienced the flaking mentioned by Don. In fact I noticed some more flaking yesterday under the aft berth area while waiting for epoxy to gel on my transom.

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 04/14/2008 : 10:33:39

After washing and drying the bottom, I also give it a quick wipe with a solvent, mineral spirits or paint thinner, before applying the VC17.

Edited by - on

stampeder
Master Marine Consultant

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1608 Posts

Response Posted - 04/14/2008 : 11:51:56

Randy, it will be interesting to see how your paint job looks at the end of the season.
When I was doing my bottom job, I recieved contrary opinions about whether or not I need a primer coat. I finally decided on putting on the primer and have gotten two seasons - so far -

In the end, I listened to the Interlux guy and am glad I did.

Please keep us updated.

Edited by - on

Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts

Response Posted - 04/14/2008 : 13:17:30

Mike, the boat had VC17 on it when we bought it. I have no idea what is under the coats, maybe there is VC Tar or some primer. We painted it last season (our first) with VC17 and it held up fine. The directions say no need to sand or prime each year, just clean off and paint. So far so good for us.

Here is the data from the Interlux site. It makes no mention of required primer or barrier coats:

Preparation

PREVIOUSLY PAINTED SURFACES:
with VC 17m and:
with VC 17m Extra with Biolux: Surface must be clean and dry prior to application of VC 17m Extra with Biolux. Sand areas that are loose or flaking with 320 grade (grit) paper. Clean with Special Thinner 216.
with conventional antifouling paint: Removal is best but if this is not possible, start sanding with 80 grade (grit) paper and progressively sand with finer grades until the final sanding with 320 grade (grit). Remove sanding residue.

BARE FIBERGLASS: Begin by scrubbing well using soap and water and a stiff brush. Rinse with fresh water. Wipe with Fiberglass Solvent Wash 202. Sand with 320 grade (grit) paper. Wipe clean.

BARE WOOD: Wipe clean. Sand surface, wipe clean. Apply 3-4 coats of VC Tar2.

STEEL/LEAD: (Keels & Hulls) Blast to near white metal surface (Sa 2½). Apply 3-4 coats of VC Tar2.

Method Apply 2-3 coats on the area to be coated per season. Do not sand between coats of VC 17m Extra with Biolux. **Randy's Note - the can says 2-3 coats the first application and 1 coat per season thereafter.**

Hints Mixing Pour the powder (stored under the plastic hat) into the can. Stir or shake thoroughly.

Thinner V172

Airless Spray Electric Airless Spray: Pressure: Full. Tip Size: 1.5-1.8 mm/60-70 thou. If spraying in hot, dry conditions or outside with wind, you can add VC 17m Thinner to VC 17m Extra with Biolux to slow down the dry time during application. Add up to 15% by volume. Spraying too far from the hull will cause dry spraying which will result in poor adhesion and negatively affect the antifouling performance of the product.

Brush Do not brush apply.

Roller Use a short nap roller. Add V172 up to 15% should VC 17m Extra with Biolux be drying too quickly for application. Put just enough paint to fill the roller in the roller tray and put the lid back on the can.

Other Surfaces previously painted with VC 17m Extra with Biolux do not need to be sanded. Performance of the paint relies directly on the care taken in surface preparation, the application technique, and the number of coats applied. VC 17m Extra with Biolux is a copper color at application.

Edited by - Nautiduck on 04/14/2008 13:31:24

Second Wind53
1st Mate

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Canada
45 Posts

Response Posted - 04/14/2008 : 14:17:15

Steve,

One of the tricks I learded helping out some my buddies paint the antifouling on was using the small 5 or 6 inch roller 1 inch diameter.
They are much smoother and don't fill up with paint. Gives a smoother but thinner coat.

Just my two cents worth metrically speaking.

Peter

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 04/14/2008 : 17:37:15

VC®Tar2 is a 2-component epoxy primer providing osmosis protection to GRP boats and anticorrosive protection to steel and alloy surfaces. For use below water only, key product features include:-

Self-leveling to give an excellent finish

Easy to apply and overcoatable within hours

No sanding required between coats

Offers excellent barrier to water for osmosis protection and treatment

Ideal primer base for VC 17m antifouling

Edited by - on

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