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Convertible Double Berth

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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Initially Posted - 08/23/2002 : 11:30:00

I'm trying to figure out the best way to bridge between the dinette and the starboard settee to make a convertible berth. I'm having the cushion the fits under the cockpit--the narrow one for the quarterberth--shortened to fit in that space, but need to make up a board and some supporting pieces--as stowable as possible.

I know a few of you have done it--how do you support the board?

Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT

Edited by - Dave Bristle on 08/23/2002 11:32:17

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sbohlin
Deckhand

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USA
11 Posts

Response Posted - 08/23/2002 : 13:02:20

Hi Dave

This is a little off topic for your post however I am very intrested in the posts that you receive about this issue because I am planning the same project.

I am planning to use the idea for the folding extention of the starboard berth in volume 1 (I think) of the association's techical manual. It is a wooden frame that is hinged to the berth and swings up and locks into place with folding legs. Depending on the design or choice one could use either the back cushion or the shortened cushion from the quarter berth. I do wish the owner that submited the idea had given more detailed instructions. It seems the most sensible plan for enlarging the berth than the suggestions in the tech tips on this site or in the tech manuals.

If you do shorten your quarter berth cushion, the plan for a Nav station in the current issue of Mainsheet might be a good thing to do in that space.

Stephen Bohlin

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 08/24/2002 : 10:24:12

I couldn't see where you went off-topic, Stephen... I've looked at two tech-tips on the subject and think I may have a simpler solution:

1. Remove the teak rails along the dinette seat sides (meant to hold the seat cushions in place.

2. Install a long rail on the starboard seat side, an undetermined distance below the top (probably an inch or a little less). I may elect to use an aluminum L (as in a Tech Tip) flush to the bottom of the seat top edges but overhanging them somewhat.

3. Make two plywood or masonite boards about 27" (half the length) by about 18" (slightly more than the width) that will lie on top of the dinette seats and the lowered table. (Why two? Easier to stow.)

4. Install wood blocks on the bottoms of the boards, positioned to fit against the sides of the dinette seats and the lowered table, so that they prevent the boards from sliding to port, holding them on the starboard rail.

That's my story, but I'm not necessarily sticking to it. <img src=icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle>

Any other comments or suggestions out there?? (It's about to rain here, so I have the rest of the day to design this thing.)

Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT

Edited by - on

wmkoines
1st Mate

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56 Posts

Response Posted - 08/24/2002 : 12:02:40

I did the project a few years ago. Nothing fancy, I removed the teak rails along the dinette seat sides and across from dinette that hold the seat cushions in place and put spring hinges. I then cut three pieces of plywood to span the aisle way. I used three pieces to make it easy to store away.

When your ready to use, lower the teak rails on the spring hinges, place the plywood down, and take the back cushion of the starboard seat and lay it over the plywood.

Edited by - on

Ed Montague
Captain

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USA
499 Posts

Response Posted - 08/24/2002 : 12:26:56

I just finished this project last week end. I have the dinett setup. I will post photos next week if I can just remember to take pictures next time I am at the boat. The discriptions above are pretty much what I did with the exception to the padding. Instead of cutting and changing existing cushions or removing teak railing we used a queen sized infatable bed to span all the odd bumps, lumps and missing cushions. It is quick and easy to inflate and deflate and stores in a small box. Foam just takes up too much space. I haven't slept on it yet so the real verdict isn't in yet.

Ed Montague on 'Yahoo'
1978 #765 SK, Stnd, Dinette ~_/)~

Edited by - on

albert
Captain

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USA
262 Posts

Response Posted - 08/24/2002 : 14:21:13

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
I did the project a few years ago. Nothing fancy, I removed the teak rails along the dinette seat sides and across from dinette that hold the seat cushions in place and put spring hinges. I then cut three pieces of plywood to span the aisle way. I used three pieces to make it easy to store away.

When your ready to use, lower the teak rails on the spring hinges, place the plywood down, and take the back cushion of the starboard seat and lay it over the plywood.

<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

I like your idea of hinging the teak rails.

What hinges did you use (model number, etc)?

Where do you buy the hinges?

Have you found the teak rails to be strong enough?

Can you post some pictures? If you have nowhere to store the image, email it to me and I'll put it up (al@comhertz.com).

Albert Iturrey
al@comhertz.com
Abacus': http://www.comhertz.com/abacus

Edited by - on

n/a
deleted

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163 Posts

Response Posted - 08/24/2002 : 16:09:09

I made a template on cardboard to get the curve of the table edge, and cut a piece out of 5/8" plywood. I fastened cleats along the edges of the starboard settee and the dinette seats to rest it on. I made a cushion to fit out of 4" foam and covered it with a velour fabric similar to what's there. Works great, about the same as a queen-size bed.

Edited by - on

BCain
Navigator

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USA
103 Posts

Response Posted - 08/24/2002 : 19:25:01

Wind Shadow has a conventional layout so I decided to extend the settees into comfortable berths. I cut 5/8 ply to the length of and narrower than the settees, stained and polyutherend (?)the ply, attached the fiddles to the outer edge of the ply and added cut to length and removable legs (4 on port, 3 on starboard). The ply slides under the seat and is held in place with velcro. When I need the berths, I slide out the ply, attach the legs, slide the seat cushion out and drop the seat back cushion down and lay a 2" foam over the seat back to fill the difference. This gives me a 6' 3" port berth and 5' 6" starboard berth with a small night table (the keel box) and room in the middle to get up.

Bruce Cain Wind Shadow SR/SK
Central Florida Lakes

Edited by - bcain on 08/24/2002 19:27:24

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FrankV
Navigator

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USA
135 Posts

Response Posted - 08/24/2002 : 23:12:57

I did this project on our Cat 25 and I went very simple on our traditional interior. I just added an oak rail n either sied on top of the existing teak rail, then stained it like the teak. I used 1*12 pine boards and cut them to fit the gap. Very cheap, and no support needed under the boards. Eventually I routed the boards edges so they would fit together. We use an air mattress as well.

Edited by - on

albert
Captain

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USA
262 Posts

Response Posted - 08/25/2002 : 14:18:59

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
I did this project on our Cat 25 and I went very simple on our traditional interior. I just added an oak rail n either sied on top of the existing teak rail, then stained it like the teak. I used 1*12 pine boards and cut them to fit the gap. Very cheap, and no support needed under the boards. Eventually I routed the boards edges so they would fit together. We use an air mattress as well.

<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

When you say "on top of the existing teak rail" is that like a sandwich with the teak rail as the meat and the side of the seat and oak rail as the bread? Sorry, I haven't had lunch yet and I'm pretty hungry; can't describe it any other way<img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>

How thick did you make the oak rail?

Albert Iturrey
al@comhertz.com
Abacus': http://www.comhertz.com/abacus

Edited by - albert on 08/25/2002 14:19:52

Edited by - on

sbohlin
Deckhand

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USA
11 Posts

Response Posted - 08/26/2002 : 09:25:19

Hi guys,

Looks like Dave and I are asking from two different points of view. He has the dinette interior and mine is the traditional. I am glad that we are hearing about both interiors. Bruce, I like the simplicity of your idead for the traditional cabin. Could you be a little more specific about the legs?

I am having new cushions made so I can correct the diffence in the cushion depths while I am at it.

Thanks

Stephen

Stephen Bohlin

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BCain
Navigator

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USA
103 Posts

Response Posted - 08/26/2002 : 20:49:33

Stephen, I went to Home Depot and picked up 7 cheap 2 x 2" table legs that have a screw in one end and an attachment that screws to the bottom of the ply. After screwing the attachment to the bottom of the ply I just measured the height from the floor to the attachment, cut the legs to fit, numbered them from fore to aft. stained and poly'd them, then screwed the legs to the attachment. The ply sits on top of the settee and slides under the cushion. Can't even tell it's there until you pull it out. Nice thing is that there is nothing sticking out to catch a leg. Wish I could figure out this photo thingy, I have pictures of the whole affair.

Bruce Cain, Wind Shadow, Central Florida Lakes

Edited by - bcain on 08/26/2002 20:50:43

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 08/26/2002 : 21:52:48

Bruce: Thanks for your description. Regarding photos, have you seen the thread http://www.catalina25-250.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1731 where Buz Maring describes a process?

I think I understand what you did, but pictures are always nice. I assume from the statement that the plywood fits on top of the starboard settee, you must have the dinette (like me). I'm curious about why you ended up with seven legs--I can see four or five (one in the middle), but don't see the need for more than that. What am I missing? Your solution may be what I go with--no additional rails, blocks, beams, etc.

Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT

Edited by - on

sbohlin
Deckhand

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USA
11 Posts

Response Posted - 08/27/2002 : 09:06:31

Bruce,

Thanks for the details, I think I under stand the process and it is indeed easier than the project I was going to undertake. I like simplicity becuase ther is less to go wrong.

I hope you can post the pictures they would be most helpful.

Stephen

Stephen Bohlin

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BCain
Navigator

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USA
103 Posts

Response Posted - 08/27/2002 : 09:22:18

Sorry Dave, I have a traditional interior. But I will try the picture route.<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b2d606b3127cce9fa4d6b568f00000001010" border=0><img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b2d606b3127cce9fa4d6b2e9c70000001010" border=0><img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b2d606b3127cce9fa4d6e968ac0000001010" border=0><img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b2d606b3127cce9fa4d6cee9bb0000001010" border=0><img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b2d606b3127cce9fa4d6c4e9b10000001010" border=0><img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b2d606b3127cce9fa4d6d9689c0000001010" border=0><img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b2d606b3127cce9fa4d6dd68980000001010" border=0>

Now we will see if this thing works.

Bruce Cain, Wind shadow, Central Florida Lakes

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BCain
Navigator

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USA
103 Posts

Response Posted - 08/27/2002 : 09:24:01

Darn, It works.....

Bruce Cain, Wind shadow, Central Florida Lakes

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sbohlin
Deckhand

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USA
11 Posts

Response Posted - 08/27/2002 : 13:22:11

Thanks Bruce, since I have a traditonal interior with a swing keel like yours your post is very helpful.

Hve you though about posting the directions and larger versions of the photos in the c25 tech tips sections. I am sure we are not the only two with this interior.

Stephen

Stephen Bohlin

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BCain
Navigator

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USA
103 Posts

Response Posted - 08/27/2002 : 13:37:35

Thanks Stephen, I had not thought about the Tech Section. I think I will dig out the measurments I took and enlarge the photo's and give it a try.

Bruce Cain, Wind Shadow, Central Florida Lakes

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