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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

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Best Battery Charger/Maintainer

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JesseSmith
1st Mate

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USA
37 Posts

Initially Posted - 08/23/2002 : 14:13:35

Yall,
I am having fits with batteries and chargers. Seems like I go through a battery once/yr and charger every other year. I go out for the weekend, come back, plug in shore pwr and charger and hope it is in good shape when I return. What types of battery chargers maintainers have you guys/gals had good luck with? Time to spend good money on a good charger vs buying cheapo units.

Thanks,
pwrless

Edited by - on

tinob
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1883 Posts

Response Posted - 08/23/2002 : 16:56:52

Hi Jesse,

Geeessss haven't seen your name hereabouts for some time. Good to see ya. I'm afraid I'll not be much help with batteries. I bought a WM deep cycle couple of years ago and picked up another from the junk bin here at Weeks Yard (checked out O.K.) I charge them up and maintain them over winter and once the season starts here in the N.Y. area that's it. I put a charge to them once a month or so if they need it. The motor that I use has a 5 amp alternator and I don't do much motoring, perhaps ten minutes out and ten back. I sail every day. That's the only thing that might give me the results that I get. Been going on like that about five years now. I question the fact that you leave the batteries on charge until you go out again. Might be that the charger is cooking your batteries. Might it be possible to not charge your banks all the time and keep a battery out of circuit just in case. See how it goes.

Like I said I'll not be of much help in your case but mentioned what works for me in the hope that it might work for you.

The charger that I use is an auto deep cycle, manual, 2 amp/10 amp/ 6 volt/12 volt all purpose charger...nothing fancy not marine specific... but works.

Good luck

Val on "CALISTA" #3936
Patchogue, N.Y.

Val Bisagni

Edited by - on

Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3324 Posts

Response Posted - 08/23/2002 : 17:32:38

Jesse - I've had battery/charger problems too. After 7 years of faithful service my original 2-stage charger (made by a company now bought out)gave up the ghost. It used to be left on all the time. I bought a Guest 3-stage from WM and within a month it fried the battery and itself. Took it back to WM and they exchanged it - a few weeks later, charger fried itself and electrified my cockpit stanchions!) WM exchanged it for a more expensive model (the original having been discontinued by Guest). Now I only leave it turned on when I'm on the boat in the slip (most weekends). I have not had any problems since.
Derek

Edited by - on

Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 08/23/2002 : 20:06:16

Jesse,

I've seen and heard other sailboaters experience short battery life when using either engine charging or cheap shore power chargers. I also read the Practical Sailor articles on batteries and chargers. I now use a StatPower "Truecharge 20 Plus" 3-bank, 4-stage, 20A marine-rated smart charger.
<img src="http://www.westmarine.com/images/full/22223_F.JPG" border=0>
([url="http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/commerce/command/ProductDisplay?prmenbr=201&prrfnbr=22895&store_num=9&store_name=Electrical&subdept_num=450&subdept_name=Chargers%20%26%20Inverters&class_num=451&class_name=Shorepower%20Chargers&outlet="]link to price at West Marine[/url]).
After about two years so far, I'm still quite pleased with its performance. I add about a cup of water to each battery twice a year or so. The batteries are always charged and ready to go.

If you seldom use your boat more than a day or two per week, you might also consider a solar panel or two.

-- Leon Sisson

Edited by - on

Mike Vaccaro
1st Mate

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77 Posts

Response Posted - 08/24/2002 : 02:13:01

Jesse,

Concur with Leon--you absolutely get what you pay for when it comes to battery chargers! If you're seeking a shorepower solution, the Statpower TrueCharge 10A is probably sufficient for your needs. This is a "smart" charger and is available from West Marine for about 140 bones (Statpower model #804-0111 / West Marine part number 333388). This charger is designed to provide 10 total amps of charging power to one or two batteries (10A to 1, 5A to 2). It also has a built in regulating system that senses battery voltage and provides a "three step" charge, i.e., if your batteries are low, it will provide maximum "juice," but if they're full, it will simply "top them off," as required. Many of the more expensive battery maintenance systems work in a similar manner, and any of them will fix your problem.

Solar systems provide a good alternative, but also require some type of "regulator" to ensure that they don't "cook" your battery. A good solar system will cost about the same or more than a good charger, but has the added benefit of working just about anytime, anywhere --nice for extended cruising or off-shore moorings.

If your battery has been "cooked," it won't hold a charge and/or will quickly discharge, may appear to have bulged (i.e., the case looks swollen), and will probably leak a small amount as though the battery case was over pressurized. Obviously, this results in an explosive hazard and should be removed and replaced ASAP.

A properly maintained battery should last for years. Deep cycle battery life will be extended if the charge is kept above 50% (i.e., you don't drain more than half the battery capacity in amps between charges).

Battery chargers should be located as possible to batteries, but not within the confines of the battery box (this provides the necessary safety in the event of battery gases venting--they can't be ignited by a wayward spark). The reason for mounting the charger close is to keep the wire run to the minimum practical length. Also, like all electrical components, the charger should be mounted as high as practical to avoid any potential contact with water.

Although I'm not that familiar with dinnette models, if you have a traditional interior, you can cut an access hole behind your starboard sette and expoy a piece of marine plywood to the hull, allowing you to mount chargers, inverter, etc., directly above your battery bank, keeping the components within 12-24" of the batteries, yet out of the battery box and well above the bilge. This is the same modification folks make to increase storage space behind the seat--I think you will find pictures if you look in the tech tips section. I guess it goes without saying, but you have to ensure that A) you don't drill through the hull when you mount fixtures and B) you use the proper size screws for mounting!

The other thing that tends to wreak havoc with Cat 25 electrical systems is general system configuration (not the best, especially if improperly "modified" over the years) and corrosion, with the later being the main culprit most of the time. Any marine environment is corrosive, saltwater being the worst, obviously. Old fashioned copper wire doesn't stand a chance, and this is what all of our boats (Cat 25's) were wired with at the factory. Besides the copper wire, the other major corrision weak point are improper connections. Simple automotive "crimp" fittings won't do the trick in a marine environment. In addition to proper wire and connectors, some maintenance is still required. There are many good products on the market that can be sprayed on components and connections to impead corrosive activity. Plain old Vasaline will work as well, but doesn't penetrate and obviously is a bit tougher to apply that a quick spray of something like Boeing T-9. Recommend that you use a brand designed for inhibiting corrosion vs. a simple spray lubricant like WD-40.

Good luck,

Mike Vaccaro on the "Swoose"
84 TR/SK #4707

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