Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
New keel cable, hose, turning ball, pin, hanger castings, and casting bolts.
Includes extra long shaft Mercury 8, and EZ-Loader roller trailer with tongue extension, new paint, lights, wiring, brake actuator, and wheel cylinders. Tires are only a few years old and are in very good condition.
Mainsail was new in 2003, and has 2 partial battens and 2 full ones, and one set of reefs.
There's a depth finder, compass, Windex, VHF radio, 2 batteries w/ selector switch, microwave, 2 bilge pumps (one manual, one electric w/float switch) each pump has its own plumbing.
If you don't mind, could you tell us what holds your microwave in place. Also, where did you get the aluminum channel and what are the dimensions of that channel? These seem like really great ideas.
The microwave is held in place with some stainless sheet metal screws, threaded into the bottom (outer layer of metal) of the oven. It was there when I bought the boat.
The aluminum channel I bought at a local hardware store, Boliantz Hardware. The groove is 1/4" wide and I'll have to measure the depth of the groove. I bought two 8' lengths, and cut them to fit. I've bought it at Lowe's for two of the boats I used to have, but this time the local one didn't have any in the 1/4" width.
You'll have to widen and deepen the groove in the teak so the channel fits into it. If you have a tablesaw and a sharp narrow wood chisel, you'll have no problem.
Includes extra long shaft Mercury 8, and EZ-Loader roller trailer with tongue extension, new paint, lights, wiring, and brake actuator. Tires are only a few years old and are in very good condition.
Asking $11,500 or best offer.
Location: Mansfield, Ohio
Delivery may be available, e-mail for details. Come and look at it, and <font color="red">make an offer</font id="red">!
No, I won't sell the trailer without the boat. I <b><i>will</i></b> sell the boat without the trailer, or the boat without the motor, but the boat <i>HAS</i> to go!
Have your tried listing your boat on Sailing Texas? They have boats listed all over the country and they move a lot each month. http://www.sailingtexas.com/
Another good site is your local Craig's List.
I know your tired of me asking but I'm still interested in the trailer if you change your mind.
The 30 footer is a strip built (wood strips covered with epoxy and fiberglass) boat. I bought it from the designer and builder. He built it in the 1980's and it was finished in 1989.
There have been two different keels on this boat. The first one was a shoal draft fixed keel with a 700# lead "shoe" on the bottom. A swing centerboard was mounted in the aft section of the fixed keel, kind of like the early Hunter 23's with the swing-wing keel, only without the wing. It was different from most keel/centerboard boats because the centerboard was exposed aft of the fixed keel, when it was in the raised position. The builder liked this setup, but he said the centerboard would flex a little too much.
The second keel was a vertically retracting keel with a 700# bulb. There was a trunk that went all the way up through the deck. This worked very well, and he even made a wedge-like mechanism with an over-center latch that would allow the keel to be locked in any position, without any movement within the trunk, even side to side.
The boat now has NO KEEL! The builder was sailing it one day when he ran into an underwater concrete foundation and messed up the keel. It was made of wood, and covered with epoxy and fiberglass. The glass split, water got into the wood and swelled it up to the point that it would not move up or down inside the trunk. He had to cut it off.
I have the 700# lead bulb, the over-center keel lock mechanism, and that is all I have of the keel. I did buy a 900# lead keel from another boat that I am going to use--along with the 700# bulb. They will pretty much bolt to each other with minimal fuss. I'll be adding a slight stub to the hull that will kind of lead the hull into the shape of the keel, then bolt it all up and cover it all with multiple layers of fiberglass/epoxy. The reason I'm more than doubling the ballast is because he told me it needed it, and the bulb will also have a shorter lever arm with my planned configuration.
The mainsail is a re-cut Star Class main, and I don't have the jib. (he couldn't find it) A 7.9 S2 jib is a perfect match, though.
The trailer it is on is in decent condition, but it is a little shorter that I would like and there are a few small rust holes forming in the frame, so I also bought another trailer for it that I'll modify as needed.
It is powered by a Yamaha 9.9 4-stroke short shaft, that resides in a well made specifically for that motor. While sailing, the motor is tilted up and is completely within the hull. There is a trap-door, controlled from the cockpit, that closes off most of the opening.
The interior of the boat except for the v-berth has been gutted so he could work to replace the keel, but he ended up buying a 36 footer and kind of lost interest in this boat, and he no longer had time to work on it. When I drove to St. Louis to look at the boat before buying it, he was in the process of making a new rudder for his 36 footer. I plan to arrange the cabin almost exactly like my S2's cabin, since that's what I'm used to and it works well for the type of sailing I do, mostly daysailing with occasional overnighting.
The halyards all run to the cockpit, the backstay is adjustable, there is a mainsheet traveler, a TON of storage under the cockpit benches--four lockers! The cabin is pretty similar in terms of size to the one on my 22' S2, but the cockpit is nice and long. There is a small amount of deck aft of the cockpit, which is where the motor goes. There is a really nice anchor locker forward, with chocks to hold a danforth, and--get this--ADEQUATE DRAINS!!! There is a drain in each side, with hole diameters of about one inch.
The builder told me that it will beat a J-29 on a run, but because of the light ballast, he couldn't keep enough sail up to beat one upwind.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.