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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
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I've been trying to determine whether my new mainsail actually lets me point higher. Saturday a took the boat out in about 10-12 knots of wind and with my GPS in operation set a course to windward somewhere between close hauled and a close reach. I then tacked and set a new course to the other side of the wind.
I dumped the track file from the GPS and calculated the angle between the two courses at about 115 degrees. I have to say I hoped that angle would be a bit smaller.
Can anyone advise whether this is about what I should expect? I would assume this is about the angle I should use for the tabs on a windex should I reinstall one on the boat.
Eric, you should be able to tack between 90 and 100 degrees in that breeze.
There have been many discussions about pointing ability in the past on this forum -- check the archives. It's usually a matter of mast tuning, forestay tension, and sail trim.
On the other hand, remember that your GPS is showing you track over ground, which is going to reflect your leeway. Your compass angle in tacking should be 90 - 100 degrees.
I installed new sails this past winter. My experience has been that I can point slightly higher up and minus the main sail flutter that I use to get that started before that close reach point. I do not know the exact angle but based on the Windex pre-set tabs, I would almost make it to the tabs with the old sail but definitely can with the new. It isn't a big angle difference....maybe I gained a few degrees. Biggest thing is that I would get main sial flutter way, way before that point and now it is non-existent.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by eric.werkowitz</i> <br />.... set a course to windward somewhere between close hauled and a close reach. I then tacked and set a new course to the other side of the wind. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Why didn't you hold a course on a hard beat if you were trying to maximize pointing? Steering a course <u><b>between</b></u> close hauled and a close reach will automatically result in less than ideal pointing performance.
Sail flutter can be controlled if your sail (main or genoa) is equiped with a leach cord.
Sailing closehauled is the closest that you can sail to windward efficiently. If you were sailing on a close reach, you weren't maximizing the boat's windward ability. Many factors affect the boat's ability to point. A 90 or 100% jib can point significantly higher than a 155% genoa. If the sails aren't well-trimmed, or the luff of the sail has scallops, it won't point as high. If the mainsheet isn't set correctly, the boat won't point as high. As boatspeed increases, a boat's ability to point also increases. Therefore, anything that reduces the boat's ability to reach it's maximum speed will reduce it's ability to point, such as algae on the bottom, peeling bottom paint, or a rough keel surface. Generally the boat should be able to tack within 90 degrees.
Thanks, all, for the input. I know I didn't do the optimal test last week, but I was interested in seeing from others what the "right' answer is for a C2 TR FK. On the latter tack, the speed over ground was a couple knots slower due to the nearly head-on seas. That, no doubt contributed a lot to the poor showing. That was also why I chose not to try to sail close hauled.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.