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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

Change through-hull valve in water

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bexusflexus
Deckhand

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USA
14 Posts

Initially Posted - 06/15/2008 : 23:13:32

This may sound crazy but I need to change the 1/2 to-hull valve that service's the marine head in-take while the boat is in the water. Today I opened the valve and it failed and started leaking badly. I noticed that there was a crack around the body of the valve. It is the original 1/2 rotary stop valve. It is not the to-hull pipe nipple that is leaking but the body of the valve itself. I cannot get the boat out of the water because the ramps are flooded. As a stop-gap I have applied JB Weld around the crack to hold. It seems to be holding for now.

My idea is to plug the intake with a cork (underneath the boat) to prevent water ingress while I remove the valve and replace it. My main concern is that the valve or nipple will break making matters worse.

Has anyone attempted such a feat??? Thanks for your input. This is on a 1979 Cat 25.

Edited by - on

Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
6855 Posts

Response Posted - 06/16/2008 : 08:46:04

I've heard of it, but only in extreme emergencies.

What are your plans if the cork falls out? How are you going to work the valve into the hole with the cork in there?

What are your plans if your other plans fail?

Get someone to pull you out for an afternoon and do it right. A few hundred bucks for a hoist is a lot less than a few thousand to pull you up off the bottom.

Edited by - on

ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 06/16/2008 : 08:51:12

First question... is the thru-hull a modern one or the old 'fiberglass volcano around a bronze pipe nipple' found on early Catalinas? If it's the volcano, not sure I'd proceed in the water. If you spin the pipe stub in the fiberglass you're screwed.

"My idea is to plug the intake with a cork (underneath the boat) to prevent water ingress while I remove the valve"

That's certainly been done in many cruising anchorages around the world. Special tapered wooden plugs are sold by marine vendors.

"concern is that the valve or nipple will break"

Get the right tools and parts to deal with anything in that area. If the valve doesn't move with a reasonable effort, I'd stop and pull the boat... have a backup plan to promptly remove the boat from the water if you need to.

Edited by - on

bexusflexus
Deckhand

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USA
14 Posts

Response Posted - 06/16/2008 : 11:58:14

Thanks for the responses. The to-hull is the old "volcano" type. I know it is a risky proposition all the way around. I have thought of the pipe turning in the fiber glass, the valve breaking off on the pipe, the pipe nipple breaking off while unscrewing the valve. Believe me, with this boat the worst case scenario WILL materialize.

The marina owner has two very large A/C bilge pumps he uses for raising boats which he said I could borrow.

The "cork" or wooden peg should go into the hole under the water line neatly since I have to-hulls and not thru-hulls. True it could fall out and that would mean havoc.

I will see if I can track down a lift that can lift a sailboat. Thanks again.

Kevin

Edited by - on

Stardog
Captain

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USA
319 Posts

Response Posted - 06/16/2008 : 12:24:11

What if you plug as you mentioned then leave the repair until the weather breaks and the waters recede? Make sure to drive the rubber cork in very tightly so it cannot work loose. I would not sail or motor it anywhere until it's fixed and I would certainly leave a triggered bilge pump on board as a back-up precaution and check on it a couple of times a day.

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Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
6855 Posts

Response Posted - 06/16/2008 : 14:49:13

Where are you located? How'd you get the boat in the water to begin with?

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bexusflexus
Deckhand

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USA
14 Posts

Response Posted - 06/16/2008 : 20:27:16

The boat is in Langley, OK (Grand Lake). I put the boat in the water on a very steep ramp and barely got it off the trailer. Since then the water has risen even higher from some recent storms and runoff.

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stampeder
Master Marine Consultant

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1608 Posts

Response Posted - 06/16/2008 : 20:55:28

I would think that a steep ramp and high water were good for launch and retrival.
I launch and retrieve on a very steep ramp on Vancouver Island, and at high tide, I don't need to use a tongue extension.

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bexusflexus
Deckhand

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USA
14 Posts

Response Posted - 06/16/2008 : 23:40:14

A very steep ramp in deep water can certainly be a good thing. However, once the water has creeped over the top of the ramp it can be very difficult to line up on the ramp without going over the side and losing footing. Another problem is with the debris that the flood waters have washed off of the shore line (logs, pieces of foam, etc.).

I am going to explore some options this coming weekend. If the water subsides then I might give it a try. I should have mentioned that this is a full fin keel boat which makes things a little more difficult.

If I had my way I would probably glass in all the to-hulls and just use the fresh water tank for the marine head. I have a holding tank for the head and will probably never use the sink therefore really have no need for the "holes" in the bottom of the boat. A project for another day.

We have been working on this boat for 8mos. A complete refit except for the plumbing. Looks like I got bit on that part!

Edited by - on

JimB517
Past Commodore

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USA
3285 Posts

Response Posted - 06/17/2008 : 00:38:15

Don't use a rubber plug or cork. You hammer in a soft wood tapered plug from outside the boat. You can buy these at West Marine. The soft wood swells with water and seals. Soft wood won't break anything.

I think it could be done in an emergency.

Or you could try underwater epoxy. This is always a good thing to have on a boat.

Edited by - on

bexusflexus
Deckhand

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USA
14 Posts

Response Posted - 06/17/2008 : 21:27:36

Thanks, Jim. Glad you mentioned the wood pegs. I was considering using cork or rubber. The pegs sound superior. I noticed an article from BoatUS concerning thru-hull valves which showed a diagram of a cork (or peg) tied to each thru-hull in case of leaking. Each peg was sized for the particular thru-hull it was tied to. Looked like an excellent idea to me.

Underwater epoxy? That would be a good thing to have.

I am keeping my fingers I can get the boat on the trailer this weekend. That would be ideal.

Edited by - on

bexusflexus
Deckhand

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USA
14 Posts

Response Posted - 06/22/2008 : 11:49:06

Thought I would give an update on this. Yesterday I used a wooden peg, bought from West Marine, and shoved it into the to-hull on the outside of the boat. The peg was tight and not a drop of water came into the boat.

The only surprise was when the valve would not spin off the to-hull pipe because its handle was hitting the large discharge valve beside it. The handle was removed with a hack saw and all was well.

The old valve was removed by holding channel locks onto the to-hull pipe, to prevent it from rotating in its "volcano of fiberglass", while rotating the old valve off with a pipe wrench. The valve was very tight at first.

Then the new 1/2" valve was rotated back on using some teflon tape. That was pretty much it. From start to finish took about 30m.

There was some level of stress involved with this, despite the two extremely large A/C bilge pumps that I had on the ready in case something went wrong.

However, it was mostly uneventful.

Edited by - on

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 06/22/2008 : 12:10:55

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">However, it was mostly uneventful.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

This is always a good thing to hear in regards to a potential sinking situation.

Nice job & congratulations on the repair. Here's hoping you never have to do it again.

Edited by - on

bexusflexus
Deckhand

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USA
14 Posts

Response Posted - 06/27/2008 : 16:03:48

Thank you sir!

Edited by - on

rcheatha
Deckhand

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USA
2 Posts

Response Posted - 07/07/2008 : 15:05:26

Glad your quick fix worked. I just went through the same problem, except our pipe loosened from the forward fiberglass volcano, and the volcano began to seep. The following quote is from Catalina Direct in the 3/4" Thru-hull section.

"The old pipe nipple "thru hull" is not recognized as an appropriate installation by any marine standards authority. And any surveyor worth hiring will advise they be replaced immediately." 

I used a repair kit from Catalina Direct to replace both my volcanos. It took a couple of days of letting the epoxy and sealant set up. The kit comes with directions that are based on how they do the repair. Not having a lot of shop tools I had to make some adjustments. If you want more info, let me know.

I really liked your idea of pluging the holes.... and using the fresh water tank. Very ingenios! If I get more leaks I will try this fix.

Edited by - on

Shauneen
1st Mate

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USA
27 Posts

Response Posted - 07/09/2008 : 21:13:30

We have sealed all of our thru hulls and removed our fresh water tank. To compensate we have installed 2 jerry cans in the galley- one with fresh water and a little bit of bleach and one as a receptacle. They are attached to the sink pump and drain. While the water is not drinkable it is fine for washing hands, dishes etc. We can easily remove the jerry cans to empty or refill. I am trying to find appropriately sized containers to duplicate the set up in the head. In RI all boats must have holding tanks. I keep a gallon or water behind the head for "flushing" and go to the "pump out" station as needed.

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 07/09/2008 : 22:07:20

Shauneen: Are you sure you need a holding tank for "gray water" (from sink drains)? That'd be news to me and a lot of skippers I know who frequent Watch Hill, Block Island, Newport, and elsewhere in RI. For the head, yes. At Block Island, they come around in the dark and inspect around your hull with flashlights for signs of effluent.

Edited by - Dave Bristle on 07/09/2008 22:09:08

Stardog
Captain

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USA
319 Posts

Response Posted - 07/11/2008 : 15:55:05

I recently replaced all of my fresh water system, except for the tank. I washed out the tank with a light bleach formula to eliminate microrganisms, ran all new lines, replaced both flipper pumps and installed a carbon filter in-line just before each pump. In the past there have been times when the water smelled and tasted bad, probably bacteria in it. I think the new system will provide better drinking water.

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