Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Hi Folks, Yeah, I know, I should be working on my Catalina 25 to get her ready for her next owner, whoever that may be. But I just can't stop working on the Ericson.
The Ericson has very little teak on the exterior, just two rails, a transon cap, and some hatch moulding (my hatch has been replaced with plexiglass previously)
The existing teak was regular Cetol coated, you know, dark. I sanded t he two rails down to bare wood. I figured I needed to match the rest of the boat. I decided that the wood looked so good I would go the Cetol natural route. Got the first coat on today. Wow. It looks like regular amber varnish, but goes on really easy. I used one of those cheap 50 cent foam brushes from Home Despot. No brush marks, it flowed together smoothly, and you can see the grain. This new Cetol Natural has some new formulation with UV inhibitors. I figure about 3 or 4 coats should do it. I'm really amazed at how easy it works, and how good it looks. I'm one of those folks who really doesn't like the look of standard Cetol.
This may or may not be helpful, but I've found that if I epoxy my wood before using Cetol, you don't get the orange color because the Cetol never actually touches the wood to stain it. I refinished my tiller this year, put three coats of epoxy on, then three of Cetol, and it looks beautiful. It's still a pain to have to wait 24 hours between coats, but certainly worth it.
I need to do the same with my dinghy's oars, they're looking a bit forlorn.
Hey David, as you know, some epoxies have an amine blush which much be washed off with soap and water, which adds another step, before you can varnish over it, or the varnish will peel off. West epoxy is bad for the amine blush. I have switched to the MAS system. No amine blush.
Yep, I usually wash it off with a green scrubby, and in this case I used some 4-0 pads to scuff it up again before applying the next coats of epoxy or Cetol. I've heard very good things about MAS epoxy. However, I still have about three quarts left out of my original gallon of West Systems resin.
I now have 3 coats of Cetol natural on my teak rails. MOLTO BENE or "very nice" in Italian. Which is also the name of my Ericson. It looks as good as Varnish, and far easier to put on. Now I just hope that it lasts.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Gloss</i> <br />...Now I just hope that it lasts.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Each year, scuff it up lightly with a Scotchbright pad and add a coat.
I'm in the process of redoing my teak also. As I do every year, I asked the expert at WM which varnish holds up the best, and he gave me the usual answer "No one really knows, just be sure to get one with very high UV resistance". So I'm trying the Z-Spar Flagship varnish, which costs about the same as the other high-end varnishes, and makes the same claims they do to durability. Now that I have several pieces completed I can see it doesn't stain the wood so much, only makes it a bit darker. I'm starting with four coats this time around, in the past I've started with three.
Incidentally, I also asked the Oracle at WM how well the strippers work. I have always sanded wood that was particularly weathered and thought that maybe for a change, it would be nice to not have to work so hard at it. The Oracle said "strippers are messy and you spend just as much prepping and cleaning up as you would sanding. Also they don't get all of the varnish off, so you have to sand anyway." I'm not sure I agree with the Oracel, but after all of my thought and consideration on removing old varnish, I'm sanding again this year.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.