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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

New Dock and Testing Plumbing

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Chris Z
Captain

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452 Posts

Initially Posted - 07/24/2008 : 21:48:33

I moved my C25 from a mooring at one lake to a lake with a dock, water and power. Glad to make the change. Now I have power, water and pump out. The question now is, what should be the process to start checking out the plumbing, fresh water, toilet, waste tank, and through hull valves? I have had the valves closed since purchase and have never used any of the plumbing since I bought the boat.

Chris Z.
Water Warrior
1982 Force 5

Former Owner Blown Away - C25

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OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3477 Posts

Response Posted - 07/24/2008 : 22:29:16

I have one comment regarding the seacocks. Supposedly, you should cycle the valves every so often to keep them operating smoothly. Believe the catalina manual indicates this as well. Otherwise, they may take a set or because of debris or non-use they may be very tight to operate.

When I bought my boat, one seacock operated smoothly. The other was extremely tight (probably from non-use) and thought that if I kept cycling in that condition, I may risk breaking off the handle or damaging the valve. I thought about lubricating the ball/seat although do not believe that is recommended anywhere and depending on what you lubricate it with...it is possible that it could deteriorate the seating surfaces a bit. Still...I just wanted to get the valve to operate a bit easier and cycling it alone was not doing the job. I also did not want to get into a major replacement project when possibly just a bit of grease may solve the problem. Taking off the hose was a bear and I eventually gave up on that when I thought of an easier method. A nearby marina has a bottom pressure wash special on Tuesdays for $75. I was due to have the bottom cleaned (multi-year paint). So, I brought along a tube of synthetic bicycle grease and a small thin bristle brush. When the guys were pressure washing the bottom, I put some grease on the brush and shoved it up and against the seacock from the outside. When I got back to my marina, I then cycled the seacock...it has been operating fine ever since then and that was about 2 years ago !

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Chris Z
Captain

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452 Posts

Response Posted - 07/25/2008 : 07:43:31

Larry,

I was thinking about using silicone grease. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicone_grease
They sell it at the local hardware store for plumbing parts.

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Harry Cowgill
Deckhand

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USA
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Response Posted - 07/25/2008 : 10:01:01

Chris, This is from Forespar's website:

Marelon® - Marine Grade Plumbing Systems Valve Lubrication

As a follow up to previous Tech Tips; it is important to know that while Marelon® fixings are corrosion resistant, they do require twice yearly lubrication maintenance. These valves should be activated on a regular schedule. The handle should be moved throughout the open/close path every thirty days. Leaving a valve open or closed without moving the handle can cause freeze-up. This is true of any valve, including bronze. The law of nature is "use it or loose it".

To lubricate ball valves and seacocks while the boat is in the water you must:

1. Close valve.
2. Remove hose from tailpipe.
3. Remove remaining water from valve/tailpipe.
4. Swab waterproof grease (water pump grease, winch grease) or LanoCote™, generously, on ball.
5. Reattach hose, checking for fatigue and rusted hose clamps.
6. Activate valve a few times. When boat is hauled, you can perform steps 4-6 from outside the hull to lubricate opposite side of ball and seals.

...

I have used LanoCote for years..it's great lube!! Waterproof valve siliocone "grease" should work fine also.
Harry

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JohnP
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1520 Posts

Response Posted - 07/25/2008 : 10:24:14

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Chris Z
 Larry,

I was thinking about using silicone grease. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicone_grease
They sell it at the local hardware store for plumbing parts.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Silicone grease is an excellent long-lasting lubricant that can withstand water immersion for long periods. It's soluble only in some organic solvents (ether, acetone, paint stripper), and should work fine to free up your valves & seacocks.

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OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3477 Posts

Response Posted - 07/25/2008 : 11:19:46

Harry,

Thanks for that great reference from the mfr regarding greasing !

Doing it when the boat is out of the water is the easiest way...no disconnects required.

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