Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I know this has been covered many times, but in searching the past I couldn't find the answer to my question. One of the gate valves on my 78 FK broke on my last trip. Since I needed to replace it, I decided to replace the To Hull while I was at it. I have removed the To Hull and valve (to hull was very solid, but leaking slightly). Question: The hole in the hull does not go through at a 90 degree angle. The hull is angled and the To Hull came straight up. Mine was a 1/2" To Hull. I plan on using a 1/2" mushroom thru hull as I believe it would be easiest, but how do I get the mushroom on the outside to fit tightly against the hull with the hole not perpendicular to the hull? Do I simply enlarge the 1/2" hole in the hull enough to get a flush fit on the outside and then fill with 5200 when I put in the thru hull?
I have not done this work, but I would guess that it would be safest and best to just fill the old hole with epoxy (west system is great and easy to work with), let it cure and either drill through it and the hull again at the angle you need or just relocate the new thru hull near by. Touch up the bottom paint in the area that you sanded down around the outside, and you'd be done. AND have peace of mind! Good luck.
Patrick Burnett, Little Rock, AR S/V Lucky Star #2707 1982 SK/SR
Scott, I replaced both of my to-hulls with thru-hulls this spring. After removing the old hardware, I wasn't happy with the edges of the holes in the hull. I filled both holes with an epoxy/filler mixture then redrilled. This exercise would allow you to get the holes perpendicular to the hull. BTW, many have said that they would use 3/4" thru-hulls in the galley and 1/2" in the head, others have said 3/4" in for both locations. I used polysulfide in the event I should ever have to take these apart someday. Good luck.
Scott, when I replaced the 2-hulls on my '78 with 3/4" thru-hulls, I used a 1/2" drill bit to ream out the old holes. I worked slowly and kept testing until I got a good fit. I used 3M 5200 to seal the thru-hulls. Worked out fine. BTW, I had a similar problem with one of the old gate valves. Good luck, Gary
Use the existing hole. The hull is thickest at that point. Rework the hole for best fit. A flat through hull flange will not sit flush on a curved hull. Use 4200 not 5200 and use plenty. It should have plenty of squeez out. Dont tighten the through hull all the way untill the next day. This alows it to set up partialy and form its own shaped seal. Dont forget to seal the insides of the open hole with either epoxie or a good glass resin prior to instaling the through hull.<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b2dd00b3127cce9d5f16fa8ccf0000005410" border=0><img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b2dd00b3127cce9d5f16028c370000005410" border=0>
Thanks to all. I have ordered 3/4" Thru Hulls to replace my 1/2" ones. I also ordered 3 new seacocks. Figured I may as well get this all behind me while I'm at it. I'm hoping that with the larger size Thru Hull I will be able to get the correct angle when I enlarge the hole. Thanks again.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.