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First Winter Project

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frich
Captain

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USA
418 Posts

Initially Posted - 09/09/2002 : 07:38:55

I am planning to re-bed all the life line stanchions and Genoa track fittings this winter.

First has anyone come up with a procedure to break the screws loose? I have tried with a large srewdriver with no sucess.

Secondly should I opt for a caulking compound or the 4200 series products.

As always i appreciate all replies

Frank Rich
84 C25 SK

Edited by - on

MikeM
1st Mate

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72 Posts

Response Posted - 09/09/2002 : 09:27:59

This is a two man job since you will be torqueing the screws topside with a screw gun/drill and someone else is holding the nut. I did this project last year and I highly recommend 4200 for bedding. No leaks all season!

Be sure to put a bead around each screw and the stanchion plate to ensure a proper seal. Don't use too much or you will have 4200 all over the place. Be sure to have rags available to wipe excess away.

Mike M
Marblehead, MA
C25 #1212

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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 09/09/2002 : 10:02:46

Hi Frank...

I did a section of the genoa track last year, without removing it. Some might say this isn't a good idea, but I wasn't prepared to take the whole thing off at the time. I removed the teak trim in the cabin that covers the nuts holding the track bolts. Then, with a friend in the cabin, I removed the bolts that in the area where I had some winter seepage (about a 5' section). I shot some silicone down the holes and ran the bolts back in. It got a little messy for my friend, but he's a sailer... <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>

You might have more luck with a wrench on the nuts below to break these bolts loose--especially if the problem is corrosion between the aluminum track and the stainless bolt--that's likely. You may have to chip a little fiber insulation around the nuts to get a wrench on them.

On the stanchions, I've been warned not to bed the entire base--just around the bolts. You don't want to seal in water that may enter the top of the stanchion. I suggest tightening them from below--just finger tight--then allowing the 4200 or Life Caulk (essentially the same thing) to cure. Then crank down the nuts from below to form a tight gasket. If you turn the bolts from above after the stuff cures, it will tend to break the seal around them.

Good luck--I'm lining up my "on the hard" projects, too!

Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT

Edited by - Dave Bristle on 09/09/2002 10:07:20

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The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.