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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

Replace main/spinnaker halyards

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James Simmons
1st Mate

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USA
41 Posts

Initially Posted - 08/26/2008 : 04:58:53

While replacing the jib/mainsheets on the C-25 I just bought (Thanks for all the information I got on that thread) I noticed the main/spinnaker halyards also need replacing.

What type/diameter line is recommended for these? The lines I am replacing seem to be a very large diameter. (Also, both tie on to wire.) Any color considerations?

Thanks again-

Edited by - on

Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
6855 Posts

Response Posted - 08/26/2008 : 06:49:48

original sheaves - 5/16th. If you go internal with them you can bump them up to 3/8ths if you change out the sheaves. (catalina direct is a good resource for this)

Also check with Derek, he has a tapered splice to something pretty thin that really does the trick.

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James Simmons
1st Mate

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USA
41 Posts

Response Posted - 08/26/2008 : 07:29:37

Thanks for the input.

The wires have a thimble on the halyard side that the lines were tied to with a bowline and was not spliced. Is this normal?

Edited by - on

tinob
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1883 Posts

Response Posted - 08/26/2008 : 08:39:35

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by James Simmons
 Thanks for the input.

The wires have a thimble on the halyard side that the lines were tied to with a bowline and was not spliced. Is this normal?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

James .... It how my '83 was configured. When I replaced the rope half of the Halyard I opted to use 1/2"...more comfortable in my hands.

Val on Calista # 3936, Patchogue, N.Y.

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Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 08/26/2008 : 08:43:18

Our Halyards were changed to all-rope, and the wires removed by the PO. I would suggest that if you are replacing the halyards anyway, you may want to consider this option. Another boat in our marina has the wire halyards, and they have started to give him trouble with jamming. Our experience with the all-rope halyards has been very good so far. If you do this you may have to replace the sheaves at the masthead.

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JimB517
Past Commodore

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USA
3285 Posts

Response Posted - 08/26/2008 : 11:27:17

replace the sheaves with 5/16 sheaves from Catalina Direct. The new ones are metal with very thin walls.

For halyards either go with Stayset-X 5/16 or as I said in the other thread VPC 8mm is softer, more flexible, stronger, and cheaper and makes a better halyard.

Assuming lines are led ot the cockpit, halyards should be 70 to 75 feet long.

I have mine tied to a wichard shackle with a bowline. This allows me to cut a foot off the line every year to move the point that is in the sheaves and on the clutches.

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Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3324 Posts

Response Posted - 08/26/2008 : 18:57:39

James - when I replaced my main halyard I used 8mm hi-tech stuff (can't remember the name) I had them use 35' of 8mm center spliced into 40' of 5/16" Sta-SetX with a light weight shackle spliced into the 8mm.
It did cost $150 but well worth it to a hard-core racer to get that weight from aloft.

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dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 08/26/2008 : 20:50:07

I just went through the exercise of replacing my main and jib halyards this spring, after lots of advice from others on this forum. Mind you, I had replaced the rope portion of the halyards when we bought the boat just 2 years ago, using Sta-Set 3/8", and then this spring developed main halyard jamming problems. When we pulled the boat out this summer for other reasons, I reluctantly decided to replace the halyards again going to all-rope this time. Turns out one of the 4 masthead sheaves was shot. I bought a new sheave set from CD and bought Sta-SetX 5/16" halyards from Milwaukee Rigging on Ebay. Total cost for the sheaves and both halyards was about $130. I have a tall rig and 70' each will be fine for leading them back to the cockpit.

I also recommend going all-rope, but if you decide to replace only the rope portions, I've got the 3/8" line still in excellent condition, main 34' white w/green flecks and jib 46' white w/ red flecks. My main halyard doesn't lead back to the cockpit, the jib halyard does. Will sell for $45 (cost $70 at WM).

Edit: Correction - re-measured lines, got colors backwards, main halyard 33' white w/red flecks and jib halyard 45' white w/green flecks.

Edited by - dmpilc on 08/29/2008 22:52:01

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 08/29/2008 : 23:08:20

How do you guys run the new halyards when you replace them? I plan to replace my running rigging this winter after we pull the boat. My thought is to do a temporary splice between the old & new halyards, take a few stitches through the splice to lock it down, then pull the new halyards up through the mast with the old halyards, then remove the splices & put in eyes for the shackles.

How do you guys do it?

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dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 08/30/2008 : 09:05:24

David, mine are external halyards, not internal, so all I had to do when the mast was down was remove the old halyards, replace the sheaves, and run the new halyards through the masthead over the sheaves. With internal halyards, I think you have 2 choices: first-as you described, second-if your new halyard already has the shackle eye spliced in, you'll need to do a temporary splice to a messenger line, pull it up through the mast using the old halyard, remove the old halyard and do another temporary splice with the tail end of the new halyard, and pull it back down through the mast with the messenger line, then remove the messenger line; or remove the eye from the old halyard, do the temporary splice to the old halyard, and haul it up over the masthead sheave and down through the mast using the old halyard, them cut off the old halyard.

Edited by - dmpilc on 08/30/2008 14:23:38

glivs
Admiral

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USA
836 Posts

Response Posted - 09/02/2008 : 18:26:48

David (delliotg)...I just replaced my halyards and exit blocks this past weekend essentially as you note. Worked flawlessly. My old exit blocks were so bad it was getting difficult to raise the sails...not anymore. One question for anyone though. On the backside of the flanges on the old exit blocks was a very thin teflon-like material. I am assuming it was used to minimize seizing between the stainless steel flange and aluminum mast. Is this a special product? I cut a piece of rigging tape to serve that purpose and used a bit of antiseize on the screws.

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