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Bottom Paint Drama Revisited

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Old Disco Queen
1st Mate

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USA
66 Posts

Initially Posted - 09/10/2008 : 22:54:57

OK fellas, here we go again

I am about 3/4 done with the chemical peal of the old bottom paint, and have a few questions...

1. There appears to be a "greenish" film/ting below all that brown/bronzy paint on the hull...did someone just paint over pond slime or is that an original barrier coat?

Hard to get off...any suggestions?

2. I have found several "gouges" in the bottom once the layers of old paint are removed. What would you use to fix them?

3. The antifouling paint that was recommended to me was a "black" Pettit. What kind of "barrier" coat should I put on the bare hull before applying this stuff.

4. The stripper I have been using has worked well. Do I still need to sand it before applying paint? If so, how much should you really sand on the hull? How deep of a sanding? Do I just ruff it up or do I need to take off "white"?

5. Is there a recommended "wash" to use before applying the paint after sanding?

6. I also noticed some "above water" gouges in the bow area where someone must have met a dock (oops)...these have been poorly repaired. Should I leave them or redo them. My camera is on the funk or I would have sent pics.

Thanks for all your help, sorry its more newbie questions

Stephen

Stephen J. Moore

Edited by - on

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5908 Posts

Response Posted - 09/11/2008 : 09:27:27

1. If you're talking about a very thin greenish stain, similar to a thin, watery easter egg dye, then I wouldn't worry about it. It sounds like algae stain, and I'd just sand it very lightly.

2. Interlux Interprotect Watertite Epoxy Filler is an excellent product and very easy to use.

3. Are there any bottom blisters, or does it appear to have ever had a blister problem? If not, you might be able to get by without a barrier coat. If so, Interlux Interprotect 2000 is very good.

4. I'd wetsand only <u>very</u> lightly, using a fine paper. When you sand, you're removing gel coat, which is a fairly thin layer. It helps provide a smooth surface.

5. Pettit Paint Company probably has a tech line that you can call for this information. As you can tell, I usually use Interlux paints, and always call their tech line for such information. If antifouling paints aren't applied exactly as recommended by the manufacturer, you can end up with a huge mess of rapidly peeling paint, that has to be stripped again. I'm sure you don't want to have to do that job again>

6. I wouldn't repair minor above-water gouges unless it was absoultely necessary in order to prevent further damage. It's very difficult for us do-it-yourselfers to make such repairs in a way that is aesthetically satisfactory. It's more likely that it'll look worse after we did the repair than if we left it alone. If the gouge isn't through the gel coat, you might be able to improve it's appearance by polishing it with rubbing compound.

Edited by - Steve Milby on 09/11/2008 09:29:27

stampeder
Master Marine Consultant

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1608 Posts

Response Posted - 09/12/2008 : 00:03:54

The essential goal is to get down to the original gel coat.

You may need to do a light sanding to get everything off but you do not need to rough up the gel coat. Remove all that was painted on or that grew on. The better bottom paints on the market are formulated to adhere to smooth clean gelcoat.
As with all painting, preparation is 90% of the job.

Edited by - stampeder on 09/12/2008 08:38:18

frog0911
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1349 Posts

Response Posted - 09/12/2008 : 19:13:42

Most old school bottom painters would prime or barrier coat with a different color than the end paint. This was done so when the time came for a bottom job they would know how much to sand to get all the old bottom paint off, but still leave the primer. I do not know if they made a green barrier coat, but from what you say about the difficulty in removing, it sounds like a primer or barrier coat. If you want to know for sure, go to the dollar store and by a bottle of SNO-BOWL, rubber gloves, scrub brush and large sponge. Take the SNO-BOWL put on the sponge and wipe the green stuff down, wait a couple of minutes then scrub and rinse. If it is water slim the SNO-BOWL will remove it, if not, well you know the answer.