Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Thanks for a great forum which has already answered a lot of my questions during the course of repairing my boat.
I have just had a new anchor locker hatch made by Catalina (the old hatch was missing when I bought the boat).
I am wondering which is the best way for it to open?
If I use the original mounting holes for the hinges (long edge, port side) the bow rail legs will prevent the lid opening more than about half way.
I am thinking that if I mount the hinges on the shorter parallel side (further aft) it would enable the hatch to open fully. But would it be as stable?
Finally I have read that on newer boats the hinges are on the starboard side, but would this interfere with the anchor line chock on the bow (starboard side)?
From your experience of how it is fitted on your boat, what would your preference be?
Welcome! Mine is hinged on the port side. The lid opens up vertical and then hits the rails. There is a thin cable mounted inside the lid that I attach to the railing that keeps the lid open if needed.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by mhartong</i> <br />Mine is similar to Randy's, but it is hinged on the starboard side <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Looks like there are 2 pairs of holes on the port side ready for hinges. Also, the anchor rope goes through the whichamicallit on the starboard side and over the bow into the water. You can cleat it on the starboard side cleat. That's how mine is.
I have a 2003 and it is exactly like Randy's 2000. What year is yours? If you need photos of an existing installation, let me know and I will be happy to post them.
BTW, you might get one fellow here chiming in how he removed his lid altogether and his reasons for that. But most leave it on.
The nice thing about this forum is that you take what works for you. And there are very knowledgeable sailors here who have vast amounts of experience. Steve A PS. have you sent in your $22 membership yet? It is the best value on this planet, which is 70% water!
if you have a furler for your jib , like mine it goes down the port side . you don't want your anchor line chafing it . my hinges are on the port side too . congratulations on the new boat
Good point Sean, On our CDI furler, I rotated the strap that is under the drum and conntects the drum to the bow headstay shackle. Rotating the drum clockwise (looking down) prevents the line from chafing against the drum.
The (stainless steel) strap is held in place by two screws in the base of the drum into tapped holes of the plate that is inside the drum.
I believe that whichever side you hinge the hatch, the hatch will still catch the furling line. I try to remember to slacken off the furler line before I go fwd to open that hatch.
I will add my $.02. On my boat, #370 WB the anchor locker hatch opens to the port side, as yours is set to do. The line chock is also on the port side. While my hatch does contact the furler line which I have to move out of the way, it does open fully and then I use the short line inside the hatch to secure it to the life line. You can see in the photo, that I have the anchor available on a rail mount anchor bracket from West Marine. The only time I need to open the hatch is to recoil the line or wash out the well.
Per the pic, when and if I ever have to drop the hook IMMEDIATELY!, I don't want to fuss with a lid. I usually keep rode and chain covered with a small disposable tarp.
Thanks for all your replies, I found the information very useful.
I have mounted the new lid hinged on the port side long section. About 1/4" of the lip of the lid had to be ground off so it lay flush and it now opens about 3/4 before hitting the rail. The new hinges and clasp had a different pitch for the mounting holes so these had to be filled and relocated slighlty.
Skol has been out of the water all week, I have had the bottom painted, replaced the head seacock and done other small jobs. Just need to get the mast up, cut the rigging to length and attach lower fittings. Then it's time to go sailing!
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.