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Tiller is Splitting

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Deric
Captain

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USA
408 Posts

Initially Posted - 10/05/2008 : 09:17:25

Hello Folks,

I seek advice, comments, and opinions.

What is the best repair for my tiller? As you may note from the picture, the tiller has split between the layers of wood. I thought about using wood glue and a few stainless steel screws. Any glue available for special cases as this?

I think pressure exerted downward may have caused the damage. Perhaps it was leaned on during a tack.

Edited by - on

John Russell
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3444 Posts

Response Posted - 10/05/2008 : 09:23:40

I'd [url="http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=474"]buy a new tiller[/url].

Edited by - on

Happy D
Admiral

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921 Posts

Response Posted - 10/05/2008 : 10:21:04

Filling the crack with epoxy would not be a good repair, but a temporary patch.

I agree with John, the right way to fix it would be to peel it open and clean out that joint. Re-fit the pieces and re-glue. That is a lot of work for $80.00.
That's my twenty eight cents.
Dan

Edited by - on

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 10/05/2008 : 11:48:35

Deric,
If you're determined to fix it instead of buying a new one, here's what you can do.

Use a Dremel tool to clean out the delamination with the thinnest bit you can find. You don't say if the delamination is all the way through, or partial. It'll probably be a better fix if it's all the way through since it's easier to get to both sides of the repair. Go at least an inch past where the joint's good again to make sure you've cleaned out the damaged section. Basically what you're making is a slot to fill with epoxy.

Once you've got the slot cleaned out, you'll need a few clamps, some popsicle sticks, and toothpicks, some masking tape and the epoxy. Since the tiller is a hard lamination, meaning it doesn't flex much, I'd use a high density filler in the epoxy to make it thicker, something like West System's 404. It's designed for high cyclic loads and should hold up well. Tape the back side of the tiller to keep the epoxy from running out, then fill from the top side being sure that you're getting epoxy all the way through to the tape, you don't want any holes or voids in your lamination. Work slowly, and tap the tiller against your work surface to help work bubbles up and out, also use popsicle sticks, toothpicks, etc. to help clear any bubbles. Since you're not clamping wood together so much as filling a hole, only lightly clamp the tiller to squeeze the joint a bit.

After the epoxy sets, you should be able to sand it fair, then refinish it. Since you probably got into the delamination because of water penetration, I'd refinish the whole tiller. When I did mine this past winter, I put on three coats of epoxy (after fixing a much easier case of delamination than yours), and then three coats of Cetol. It's been in the weather ever since (my tiller cover no longer fits due to more gear on my tiller), and still looks great.

Edited by - on

tinob
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1883 Posts

Response Posted - 10/05/2008 : 11:53:39

I just replace them, usually, before they get to look like that. Once though, before replacing one, I tried binding them with decorative 1/16" line. That was a practice in frustration given the varying dimentions of the piece. It was one more nail in the idea to repare rather than replace. Now when it starts to show the need to refinish I start looking through catalogues for its replacement. Last one came from W.M. at $54. It's just a stage for me brought on by arthritis.

Val on Calista #3936, Patchogue, N.Y.

Edited by - on

ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 10/05/2008 : 13:34:35

After my 30 year old tiller unexpectedly snapped off at the rudder [fortunately in the slip] I'd suggest replacing it. There was internal rot around the attachment holes, it looked perfectly fine from the outside.

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 10/05/2008 : 13:57:37

My experience was like Clams... and the damage appeared when somebody lost their balance and "sat" on the tiller, exposing deterioration from moisture getting into the holes. There's no point in taking a chance on losing this critical component in nasty conditions. Catalina Direct's deal was the best I found at the time. I used Life Caulk when assembling the plates to the tiller.

Edited by - Dave Bristle on 10/05/2008 13:59:11

Peregrine
Admiral

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830 Posts

Response Posted - 10/05/2008 : 19:06:26

I would ask what the objective is.
If you want an easy solution to have a safe, attractive tiller just replace it.
When I bought my boat the tiller was rotted way beyond repair. I replaced it through WM for about half a boat unit.

However repairing equipment that still has life is not only economical but green.
Winter is coming on and the time to strip, clean out the gap, glue with waterproof glue, clamp it and re-varnish is a good cold weather project.

Either way I would not recommend sealing the metal plates to the tiller.
That would prevent or discourage you from removing the plates each winter for inspection. It could lead to failure at the point where the tiller gets covered by the plates.
Each winter I take the tiller off, remove the plates and inspect it. It then gets sanded and re-varnished as needed then the metal plates are reattached. It is solid and looks new after 10 years.
Also I bought a $14 “sunbrella” tiller cover that saves the varnish when the boat is idle on the mooring.
Your choice, some work or a new one.

Fair breezes.
Peregrine - #4762

Edited by - on

Unsinkable2
Captain

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USA
273 Posts

Response Posted - 10/07/2008 : 13:46:23

Here is a link to an earlier discussion on the same subject.
http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=17625

I had a similar problem (but mine was much worse - 4 or 5 of the layers had split. I would have bought a new tiller if I could have, but I had spent my budget outfitting the new boat. Besides, I have done a lot of carpentry and was comfortable that it was just a failure of the glue, not the wood.

So I cleaned it, glued it, and pinned it with alternating dowels. I also finished it off with some decorative cockscombing. Here are the details:

http://www.unsinkable2.com/home

I lack the experience you all have, so I will likely replace this tiller when I have budget for it just because everything else you old salts say has turned out to be true :) But to date the repaired tiller has made it through an entire season without any signs of wear or weakness. I've had it out under some pretty demanding forces (including a near knockdown) and it's never shown structural weakness.

Oh, I also used gorilla-glue, which I had heard good things about but never tried. Great product - a bottle of gorilla glue has found a permanent place in my wood shop!

Edited by - on

Deric
Captain

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USA
408 Posts

Response Posted - 10/07/2008 : 19:53:46

Hello Folks,

I am very appreciative of all the comments and ideas you all have provided.

After considerations, I have decided to replace the tiller with a new one, and repair the one that split - - to use as a spare. I can take all winter to clean it and work on it.

This was a new educational experience. I had no idea that a tiller splitting was not an uncommon problem.

Thanks,
Deric

Edited by - on

sweetcraft
Admiral

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USA
816 Posts

Response Posted - 10/07/2008 : 23:03:44

Good idea as I broke mine the first day as it bound on the rudder when I first lifted it. It split at the metal brackets also because the holes all lined on one seam. Since then when flying the spinnaker I have to use both hands and both feet to try to keep the boat on it's feet, lots of pressure with the original design so a good tiller is for safety.

Edited by - on

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