Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
The chain plate on the port bulkhead (just aft of the head) looks like it pulled about an inch. Would it be OK to remove the mounting hardware and then through bolt some wood to make new holes to mount the plate or should the bulkhead be replaced? I'm leaning toward replacement and wondering how much of a project this would be as well as what to use to keep it looking original.
Holly Crap! Can you post some photos? I would replace the bulkhead and would call Catalina parts to see if they could help me with materials. Do this right! Who would buy a boat whose main bulkhead did not look strong!
Some people have replaced their bulkheads - Duane Wolff comes to mind. Maybe he'll chime in.
I don't know how expensive a new bulkhead would cost from Catalina, but their prices generally aren't too bad, so it's worth checking. As an alternative, I believe marine plywood has been used. It's certainly sturdy enough. For aesthetics, I don't know why you couldn't veneer the plywood with a kitchen cabinet wood veneer. Cherry or birch or oak would could have a nice warm look. You could even use something like plain white or off-white formica, which would be easy to clean and brighten the interior. There are options, depending on how much time, labor and money you're willing to invest.
Were you in any major weather to cause that, or do you think it was due to flexing over a long period of time? Seems like a lot of movement. There was a 1981 C-25 on Ebay (auction ended yesterday)that looked like it had oversized chainplates on both bulkheads (or else I just don't remember what mine look like) which appeared to be about 3" wide. Perhaps you could do that with a different bolthole alignment that would give you new holes and cover up the old ones, without replacing the bulkhead. Otherwise I would also suggest that you call the Catalina factory and see about ordering a relacement. I have replaced the starboard bulkhead in our C-22, using the original one as a template. It's not hard to do, but that was a much smaller piece of wood. I used 1/2" plywood, wood putty on the edges, and many coats of varnish all around. That was going to be only temporary because I also took the original to a nearby boatyard and had a guy there make a new one with the same trim on the edge, but it's still in my garage now several years later as a backup for when the "temporary" homemade one gives out.
Correction, the 81 on ebay has been relisted so you can see the pics.
It should be straightforward. Take the old one out carefully and use it as a pattern for a new one on 1/4" plywood to check the fit. You can staple heavy pasteboard on it to adjust the edges in areas that don't contact the interior fiberglass to produce a pattern to cut the new one on veneered (mine looks like mahogany) marine plywood. Use marine plywood because it doesn't have internal voids and the bulkhead is structural.
Friends of ours had new chainplates installed in their C-27. Due to rot in the bulkhead, they had a section scrfed into the existing bulkhead and didn't have to have it removed. This was done by professionals at the boatyard. May be a viable option for you, I don't know.
I hope you got a deal (free) on the boat, and please be careful that you do things right such that you aren't creating a hazard through th erebuild. By the sounds of it, you have other boats, and maybe rebuilding is a hobby for you, if so, it would be interesting to track the rebirth of this boat as you work on it. Please keep us posted!
Boat was a freebee (see my "New to me" post). Upon further inspection this will not be hard to do at all. Worst part of the bulkhead will be finding a suitable replacement board to use as I would like to keep the wood grain look. I started to take the old board's screws out and then it dawned on me that others would like to see, so I snapped a few (bad) pics with my phone but plan on keeping a decent camera available for the rest of the project. Plan is to remove old board and trace the pattern onto a new piece of marine mahogany or teak plywood, but I have to get a thickness and go see what my lumbar yard can get me.
I do have other boats (36' Pacemaker, 15'Boston Whaler, Waverunner GP760, Sunfish) and grew up on the water. I just rebuilt a transom on a 17' Wellcraft and will be working on finishing that boat as well before spring. I've also slavaged a '72 Triumph that I still take out once in a while.
Old bulkhead is almost out. Most likely to be my Saturday project if the Mrs. dosen't have me doing Christmas lights. The Spit is nicely tucked away in the garage for winter and since that pic was taken has a nice chrome front bumper added.
The Spit was a basket case almost 10 years ago. Rotted floors and rockers, connecting rod through the side of the engine. I did everything except the paint job, but since then I have gotten better at painting by spraying my truck bodies (3 of them) every year. The Cat has a long way to go, but will be back in shape soon enough.
I have replaced all four bulkheads on my C25, but judging from your posts, you certainly don't need any of my advice. For any others considering it, I will say that it is not as much of a job as you might think. (he said, just before the hull collapsed)
I used 1/2" teak faced plywood. It was gastly expensive. I removed the bulkhead and removed the piping on the edge of the board. I re-installed the bulkhead and used it as a pattern and spiled? the new bulkhead. The fit was much better. Some of the original gap was 3/4" or better. I used 1/8" beige piping to fill the gap and it looks great.
I didn't feel that I could afford teak ply here in Arkansas. It costs as much to ship it in as it does to buy it. I used 1/2 birch ply, sealed the edges with epoxy, stained and varnished. Not a great solution, but it worked for me and the whole job was less than $100.00 Two sheets of birch ply, some epoxy resin a little vinyl for the trim. I had the stain and varnish on hand. Mine fit a lot better than Catalina's did.
According to my brother in law (roofing and siding contractor) getting teak plywood from the local lumber yard should be no problem, just might take a few days.
I ordered a piece from my favorite lumber yard. The teak pattern was horrible! I sent it back. Make sure you look at both sides very carefully before you take it home.
I have a parts boat with a good bulhead and good interior. I would be happy to sell the entire boat to you so you can use it for parts. the boat is in austin Texas. i can deliver as far as oklahoma. Dan
I did see your parting post, but TX is way too far for me (NY). I kept an eye on it since I am looking for the rear pulpit but someone got it first. I will probably just fabricate one since I still have the remants of the old one and some stainless tubing kicking around. How many circuits are on your DC electric panel?
Rich P. A little tip. When drilling for the chain plates, what I did was drill only the bottom hole first, located from the old bulkhead. Drill the other three after the bulkhead is in place. That makes the holes alignment with the deck opening perfect. Obviously use a brad point drill and drill from both sides.
My plan was to refit the bulkhead with the screws all around the perimiter. I was then going to set the chain plate so the top was going out of the deck the same ammount that the other chain plate is and then start drilling the new holes. Getting the exact hole spot from the old bulkhead would not be all that easy.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.