Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I've been checking on sources for replacement of the stern pulpit and last week when I checked with CD, they could make me one for $350, unfortunately it would cost about the same price to pack and ship, since it is almost 7 feet across and almost 4 feet long.
I asked them whether they could cut it into two parts (a port and starboard section, just like the way it is now on <i>Passage</i>.)
The salesperson thought that their engineering dept might have safety (really liability) concerns about selling it that way.
Replacing the complete stern pulpit is still an option if I can't get the bent one repaired.
This weekend, I disconnected the old, bent one, and am planning to seek out a machine shop that can unbend it. There's also a broken weld at the base which needs to be repaired, but I think I can get it fixed and looking good as new.
I'm just wondereing whether the stanchions should be exactly vertical fore and aft, and port to starboard?
The remaining good railing has stanchions that are slightly canted out from the cockpit, but this could be due to constant stresses.
If anybody has pictures, I'd appreciate a view.
I'll keep the forum posted on my progress.
Bruce Ross Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032 Port Captain Milford, CT
I had a bow pulpit that was bent and the front loop was broken off. I couldn't find anyone to bend stainless because it is very thin walled but I was able to find a donor stainless loop that a local welder welded in place and replaced the bent stanchion for $65. BTW, for over sized shipments, talk to Greyhound bus. they are cheap and don't seem to mind the oversize stuff.
The stanchions should be vertical fore and aft, and should be about vertical port to starboard. But since they are mounted on an angled deck, they may have a baseplate that is not 90 degrees to the tube itself. If you look on the Catalina Direct website, you will see a selection of stanchions available with different angles on the baseplates for different boats and maybe boat locations. As for the bent stern pulpit, it might be easier to find a welder like Ed above did and cut out and replace the bent sections.
I think your best bet is to talk with the guys at the machine shop a little more. Surely there are other owners in the area that would be willing to let you measure and photograph their boats.
I know that when I was working in the trades, a friend of mine was making his beer money welding broken stanctions and fixing up bow pulpits and stern rails at local marinas. You just have to find "that guy" a good welder with th eright tools can fabricate just about anything.
Hi Bruce I have a stern pulpit , that I was going to use, but have not gotten around to it. I believe it is in very/good condition. I believe there must be two style mounting brackets that attach the pulpit to the hull.. The one I have , all the mounting brackets under the stanchions are rectangular running with the top rail..the forward brackets are 4 hole and the two stern brackets are 2 hole..I think there are some pulpits that have the brackets running perpendicular to the top rail..I'm in S.E Penna. zip code 19520 and have no idea what shipping cost would be.. Frank Law About Time 1983 ,sr,swk
Hi Bruce... Old photos I have, including some from before I cut the center section out of the "pushpit", show that its stanchions all angle slightly aft--the forward ones more than the ones on the transom. The forward ones also appear to lean slightly outward, and the aft ones appear vertical port-to-starboard. I'm pretty sure all of that's the design, not from stress. Some clues are the angles of the base plates and the welds where the stanchions meet the top rail. Also, I never had to adjust the lifelines (as if the pulpit was leaning back)--they were actually always a little loose.
Dave, I don't mean to hijack the thread but can you post a picture of what you did to remove the center section of the pulpit and did it cause any problems with the strength of what remained. I have a hard time stepping over the rail to get back in after a swim.
Hi Ed... To ease access for guests over the transom in our strange slip, I cut the center out as you can sorta see below:
I cut right inside the starboard stanchion, and far enough inside the port one to allow for the stern light mounted there (as you can see behind the bimini strut). I then put stainless caps on both cuts--found them in the bimini hardware at a BoatUS store (so maybe WM has them). As for strength, I'm sure it was reduced somewhat. I figured if it seemed too bad, I'd add a crossbar above the traveler, which is exactly what the '89-90 boats have as their traveler (with no upper rail). But it seemed sturdy enough for our use (no blue-water passagemaking), so I didn't "get a round tuit."
Like Dave I cut the center section out, leaving enough length (on both sides of the stanchions) so that an eye end could fasten over the cut ends. The eye ends are the caps that Dave was referring to. If you do this be sure to buy stainless. At this point what I did was to save the center part of the rail, and then mount rail hinges (hardware designed for the rounded surface of the tubing) to the stanchions. I then shortened the removed center section so that when eye ends were installed, the section fit securely into the stanchion hinges that I mounted. The center railing is secured to the hinges with the same screws you would find holding a dodger frame, so it is removable. I have placed this system as low as I can on the stanchion with out interfering with the boats functions. Now I can not only step over this bar after a swim, but during the lay up season I can remove the center bar and mount an “A” frame mast crutch. This crutch allows me to have full use of the tiller / rudder after the mast has been lowered. This is useful when I make that sad trip up the creek to the winter ramp, and trailer.
I would think that the one Frank has will fit perfectly.I don't think they changed the mold for the C25 ever. Sounds like the only thing they did change was the bases for the stanchions ( from rectangle to round, probably for a more modern look) Worse case you will have to fill a few screw holes. At about 2 1/2hrs each way, I'd take some measurements and jump in the car and go get it
I know what my next project is. I don't use the traveler either so I may remove it also. I intend to put a lifeline across the opening with a pelican clip on one end.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by islander</i> <br />I would think that the one Frank has will fit perfectly.I don't think they changed the mold for the C25 ever...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Actually, they changed the deck-cockpit mold more than once. But probably not between '83 and '85.
Peter: Passage was on C-dock at the Darien Boat Club, where the only access is over the transom. Easy for some, and not for others. A side benefit was easier access from the swim ladder, including when she was on the hard. Bruce can board her (and tie her up) more conventionally.
Peter we cut the center section to make access to the ladder easy for me and the captain. Our ladder is used not only for swimming but also to get into the dingy. Like Ed I was also going to put a short line with a pelican hook, but the split back stay fills in the spot so well, I did not feel it was needed.
I opened up a free Flickr account, uploaded several photos, and took the URL of the photos and pasted the link into my posting. That's how I did my signature
Dave - While we all know it is strictly a no-no for all self respecting yatchsmen (and women) to sail with their fenders a danglin', there is a story behind this shot. The original photo was cropped down from a larger one, but in the original you can see the dock.
My son took this photo of me inching <i>Passage</i> in toward the dock at the end of my last sail of 2008. This was the final maneuver of the last trip of the season, when the boating season came to an end.
As one of my fellow dock mates - who is in his early 70s but still going strong - told me, every year when the marsh grass turns yellow and the warm October days are waning, it reminds me that another year has passed and the cold days of winter will soon be here. He said in a way, these days in his life are like those Indian Summer days.
Well Bruce I assume you worked this out with Frank? I also need a stern Pulpit I just bought my c25 here in South Florida The Pulpit looks pretty bad I don't think its repairable if anyone else has one for sale I'd love to know :)My email is unicorn@southflasailing.com
If I had the option, being an inland lake sailor, I would replace mine with the short loops in Frank-Pastmember's photo, just enough to secure the lifelines. On our C-25, the stern pulpit (SP) really gets in the way of dealing with the outboard and using the boarding ladder. I'm just glad I don't have all that stuff on the C-22.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.