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winter with a water ballast

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zebra50
Captain

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USA
408 Posts

Initially Posted - 01/14/2009 : 19:37:04

What are the thoughts about leaving the ballast intake valve open while the boat is in the water over the winter (long story, but it isnt coming out until spring) to make room for expansion should the water in the ballast begin to freeze?

Jay
Papa's Boat II
250WB #370
Blog:http://zebra50-boilingpoint.blogspot.com

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delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 01/14/2009 : 20:13:00

We don't own a WB, so take this with a grain of salt. I'd think that blowing the ballast might be a better option if you're sure it's going to be a hard freeze. Water expands roughly 30% when it freezes, enough to create sufficient pressure to easily crack the fiberglass of the tank if it were full of fresh water, and maybe enough to over pressure the air in the tank to crack it if the tank's not completely full and the valve's shut. Another option may be to use antifreeze in your tank, that allows you to maintain stability with a full ballast tank w/o worrying too much about freezing. There are probably lower limits to where this might work.

I'm sure the WB guys up north will chime in with what they do.

Edited by - on

OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3468 Posts

Response Posted - 01/14/2009 : 22:03:14

Jay,

When water freezes, it does not necessarily seek the drain to push the excess water out. It just freezes in all directions and that is why there is risk of a crack. Perhaps if the surface area was very wide and the water was so shallow inside that the depth of the water inside was minescule compared to the surface area, then perhaps there would be little damage of a crack. I am not experienced enough with the water ballast design to know just how much water/depth remains if the drain is left open. My thought is that it is not worth taking a chance.

As was suggested, blowing the ballast is probably best option. If you decide to go the anti-freeze route, bear in mind that some or most marine anti-freeze (which is environmentally friendly compared to automobile anti-freeze) works differently than auto anti-freeze. Some or maybe all marine anti-freeze comes pre-mixed to provide the protection mentioned on the outside of the bottle (ie. protection down to -50F). The low temperature that it will protect would be compromised (much less effective) with any water it is additionally mixed with on the boat. Maybe not all marine anti-freezes work this way but best to check it's directions.

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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 01/15/2009 : 08:08:09

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by zebra50
 to make room for expansion should the water in the ballast begin to freeze?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">There is no room for expansion--as noted, the coldest part freezes first (the top where the tank is exposed to air) and then expansion under that occurs in all directions and cannot be stopped by a fiberglass structure. Marine/RV antifreeze rapidly becomes ineffective as it's diluted with water. If your ballast freezes, your C-250 is toast--the tank will split, and the hull might, too. Get the water out of the tank. (Looking at weather maps, it might be too late.)
<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">...how much water/depth remains if the drain is left open...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">The "drain" is the intake when the boat is in the water. He's referring to the vent, which won't help.

Edited by - Dave Bristle on 01/15/2009 08:12:02

John Russell
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3444 Posts

Response Posted - 01/15/2009 : 10:54:04

Blow the ballast (if not too late) AND add antifreeze for what you can't get out! Do it today if it isn't too late. Good luck.

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