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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 02/27/2009 : 12:12:00

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by glen
 We went with a system called a “Cable Clam”. This allows the wires to enter the cabin (in our case they enter into the head area) and there in a dry protected area they can be connected.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Interesting, Glen... What do you do to drop the mast? I couldn't find the Cable Clam in the new catalog... Do you have some sort of connector that can pass through it?

Steve, for external connectors like the original, I suggest a shot of PTFE lubricant (like Super Lube) into the holes before plugging in, to prevent corrosion. In connections that aren't disconnected periodically, you can use dielectric silicone so moisture will never got to the connection.

Edited by - on

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 02/27/2009 : 12:56:40

I don't have a suggestion for a good connector to you, but what I can tell you is not to use the Sea Dog 4 connector used on the C-250's, what a piece of junk. I haven't had to replace mine yet, but I bought a couple for other devices, and returned them. They have itsy-bitsy screws to hold the power cables in that are nearly impossible to screw back in if you back them out all the way, plus they look like specs of dirt once they hit the deck, and little pieces like to break off of them, and it's simply hard to get a screwdriver on the screws in the firt place. There have to be better connectors out there.

The cable clams I've used have worked very well, I've currently (hah!) got three of them for various things on the boat including my charging cables from the outboard, antenna cable to the mast, and another for something else I'm forgetting. I know Randy (Nautiduck) uses them for his mast connections as well. He has them run inside somehow & so his connections are all internal. I'm not sure how he drops his mast with internal connections, but I'm sure he'll chime in.

Edited by - on

Sloop Smitten
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1181 Posts

Response Posted - 02/27/2009 : 15:32:51

I used this cable outlet. (Perko P/N 0424)

with standard bullet type connectors that can pass through the outlet. If you offset the individual lengths where the connectors attach to the wires you can pass them one at a time through the outlet.

Like this:
----------------===
----------------------------===
------------------------------------------===

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 02/27/2009 : 16:01:13

Gotcha. I can see how tightening the collar on that would compress the rubber grommet around a wire... But I'm curious about how it can seal around more than one wire. Do you have a casing around the wires where they go through, so you can pull the individual "bullets" through, followed by the casing?

Edited by - on

SteveRoberts
1st Mate

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USA
45 Posts

Response Posted - 02/27/2009 : 17:27:34

Hokay, more pictures plus info.

First, following up on the A-Frame stuff, I pulled the A-frame up and got a quickie shot of how the mainsheet was attached...

Here's the bottom of the mast with the crappy wiring set-up:

...and the hole in the deck that received it (apologies for the craptastic photo)...

...and the place where presumably the steaming light would go...

For some good news, I took a shot of the masthead with its new halyards and sheaves. Note the nasty anchor light:

I went and looked at Fisherman's Supplies here in Seattle. They had an awesome combo steaming/anchor LED light that was just the ticket...except for one little thing: the price. Over $560 for something I'd use twice a year is too much for me.

I'm thinking I'll order the steaming light and bracket from CD and in the meantime drill a hole above the topping lift sheave and fish a pair of wires down to the bottom of the mast. That way I can get the wiring set up and plug the deck this weekend, put the boat back in the water and then do a quick mast drop and light mounting when the parts arrive right in my slip.

I'll be giving David a holler as well.

Edited by - on

SteveRoberts
1st Mate

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USA
45 Posts

Response Posted - 02/27/2009 : 17:39:36

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">I'm curious about how it can seal around more than one wire.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Not sure about the Perko part but the Cable Clam type through-deck dealies allow you to drill holes in the grommet for one or more cable, then slit to the edge to fit over the cable past the connector. Compression causes sealing.

I'm thinking with my hack I'll put shrink tubing over the extension cord cable already in place for the anchor light plus the pair of wires I'll install for the steamer, making a roughly round, easily sealed package. The local chandlery has foot-long lengths of shrink tube that would reach well into the mast and down into the cabin and it would look clean and seal well. I hope. Should provide some chafe protection as well.

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dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 02/28/2009 : 09:09:54

Steve,
I had the same mess last summer with the wiring hole in the deck. Installed a new fitting and also ran new wiring back to the control panel. Two of my wires were shot. From what I've heard others recommend, you might also consider upgrading the spreader brackets to the newer stainless ones.

Edited by - on

SteveRoberts
1st Mate

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USA
45 Posts

Response Posted - 02/28/2009 : 10:24:39

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">...you might also consider upgrading the spreader brackets...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Yup, that's on today's agenda. I've had the parts sitting in my garage for nearly a year; now I finally get to install them.

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 02/28/2009 : 10:51:19

This might not be an issue in Seattle

but that shrink-tubing might not stand up well to UV exposure... I'd smear on some sun-block--it works for things like bungees.

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SteveRoberts
1st Mate

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USA
45 Posts

Response Posted - 02/28/2009 : 11:16:06

Got another question for early owners: I noticed that the CD website shows the steaming light as "82<->98"...was the steaming light located somewhere else on the really early boats?

Dave, thanks for the tip...hadn't thought about UV.

Edited by - on

fpill
1st Mate

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USA
51 Posts

Response Posted - 02/28/2009 : 18:18:29

Steve,
If I could go back to the original post, what type and how much bottom
paint did you use?
I purchased my C25 just in time to store it for the winter.
Now with spring hopefully on the way, it's time to finish up my projects.
I'm planning to use an ablative paint (that is what I have now), but I'm not sure how much to buy.
Frank

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Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts

Response Posted - 02/28/2009 : 18:26:33

I use a cable clam for the VHF coax. I have the connections inside and just disconnect them and then loosen the clam and pull the coax out of the boat for mast lowering. For our electric wiring I use the stock Sea Dog plastic connector. I keep a couple on hand since they are prone to breaking. Here is a link to the thread that describes it. You will see that Sloop Smitten uses the clam for his electric wires.

[url="http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=16696&SearchTerms=clam"]cable clam[/url]

Edited by - on

SteveRoberts
1st Mate

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USA
45 Posts

Response Posted - 02/28/2009 : 18:50:22

Frank, I chose Pettit Hydrocoat ablative but if you already have bottom paint on you might want to consider a different paint. Turns out I assumed the Hydrocoat was like all the other bottom paints but in fact it requires that all other ablative paint be removed before applying. I didn't do that and may be very sorry in the future.

I needed a gallon and a quart to get two coats on plus a third on the rudder and leading edges.

Dave (delliottg) came out and gave me a huge hand today fishing messenger lines up the mast, running the wires that will support the steaming light, and inserting the compression sleeves for the new spreader brackets. Thanks, Dave! Spreader brackets are all attached now and tomorrow I should finish the job getting the lowers attached to the new plates, re-attaching the spreaders and re-booting the shrouds. Then up goes the mast and splash goes the boat on Monday.

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 02/28/2009 : 23:49:57

Steve and Dave: It's always great to hear that an old C-25 is getting to be better than she was coming out of the factory! Congratulations!

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SteveRoberts
1st Mate

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USA
45 Posts

Response Posted - 03/01/2009 : 19:38:11

Whee, more pictures!

New wiring coming out the bottom of the mast:

Ooh, shiny new spreader bases and look...what's that? A steaming light wire you say?

OK, here's a puzzler. I pulled the old boots from the spreader tips and was surprised to see the tips looked like what's below. This was all wrapped in a whole mess of (pointless IMO) electrician's tape. I presume that no locking wire is required given the pins, correct? What happens when I want to replace the shrouds or a pin fails? Anybody have experience with this?

All booted and assembled. Don't look at the mess on the deck...

Ready to raise the mast:

And...done! Had to stop a few times to clear shrouds but overall it went very smoothly. First couple of pulls were tough but after that it was easy-peasy.

Took about an hour to get the shrouds and stays tensioned and a bit more to get halyards run and the boom on. It was raining steadily the whole time so at that point I quit for the day.

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 03/01/2009 : 20:43:39

This is why I keep telling people that while the C-25 is "trailerable", it isn't a "trailer sailer".

We're about to disappear under a foot of snow tonight...

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delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 03/01/2009 : 21:59:17

Steve,
Glad you were able to finish & get the stick back up. The weather definitely deteriorated today. Also glad I was able to help you get part of the way there yesterday. Hope your paint doesn't become a problem.

Are you splashing tomorrow?

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SteveRoberts
1st Mate

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USA
45 Posts

Response Posted - 03/01/2009 : 22:20:48

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Are you splashing tomorrow?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

That's the plan. The yard guys told me Monday's wide open. I'm thinking maybe I'll take the morning and scrub / polish / wax the topsides and then splash in the afternoon. Depends on the weather; it's supposed to be showers mostly until 10:00 and then drying out after that.

Thanks again for your help. I couldn't have done it without you.

Edited by - on

fpill
1st Mate

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USA
51 Posts

Response Posted - 03/02/2009 : 08:21:10

Steve,
Thanks for the bottom paint information. Since this is my first bottom paint attempt I wanted to get an idea of how much to purchase.

Great pictures on the mast stepping, very helpful.

When you are raising the mast, is the mainsheet long enough to run to a cockpit winch? Do you run it to the winch?

Frank
(looking out the window at 6"-8" of new snow)

Edited by - on

SteveRoberts
1st Mate

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USA
45 Posts

Response Posted - 03/02/2009 : 11:08:41

Frank,

My mainsheet is too short by just a bit to run to a winch. If I'd needed the extra mechanical advantage, I could have tied on a little more line to get there but it turns out it wasn't necessary. The beauty of using the mainsheet (besides the mechanical advantage) is that the cam cleats automatically hold the sheet between pulls. That way it isn't necessary to have a winch to belay and I could stop at any time to clear shrouds.

I imagine you're a little tired of snow by now. I'm a little weary of 45 degrees and rain myself.

Edited by - on

glen
Captain

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359 Posts

Response Posted - 03/02/2009 : 11:10:30

Sorry Steve I just got a chance to answer your question about how I use the Cable Clams. But it looks like others have beaten me to it. (would place a smiley face here, but don't know how)

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SteveRoberts
1st Mate

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USA
45 Posts

Response Posted - 03/07/2009 : 17:01:45

So...the job is finally done. After splashing Monday, I spent the rest of the week rewiring from the distribution panel to the head and re-working the through-deck connections. The new steaming light from CD came in so yesterday I dropped the mast and installed it.

Lucky you, I brought the camera along.

It was a beautiful day to mess around in the boat:

Here's the Cable Clam. I decided to use something I saw elsewhere on the site and mount a connector bar in the head (not pictured) which connects the mast wiring to the new wiring from the distro panel.

Here is the old hole in the deck, glassed in. I still need to finish it and figure out a way to match the gelcoat...

Finally, here's the new steaming light in place. I tested the lights before the mast went back up, they all work. That's a first!

-Steve

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 03/07/2009 : 17:19:53

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by fpill
 ...I wanted to get an idea of how much to purchase.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">In my experience, two quarts isn't quite enough, and a gallon is more than enough. Three quarts generally cost more than a gallon. I buy the recommended thinner for the particular paint, and keep the paint a little thinner than it comes out of the can--especially if it's a warm day and the paint is trying to thicken up in the roller pan.

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Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 03/08/2009 : 17:28:20

Some owners have reported that the wires go along the sampson post (under the trim) to the bilge on at least a few boats; it might be worth checking to see if yours do. I haven't checked mine, but I was able to easily pull 4" of slack to mount my new fitting and then push the excess back in. I made me curious and I'm going to check when I get home.

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SteveRoberts
1st Mate

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USA
45 Posts

Response Posted - 03/08/2009 : 22:33:19

Interesting. Looking at the distro panel from behind on my boat, it's clear that the wires for all lighting run under the headliner in line with the cabin lights. For the mast lights, they run along the top of the bulkhead to the base of the mast. You can see where the wires are run into the cabin in the picture below; this is where the bulkhead meets the coaming in the cockpit. Also if you look carefully you can see that they got the wire colors (orange and white) wrong and changed them partway into the wiring harness. This amused me.

(edited for clarity)

Edited by - SteveRoberts on 03/08/2009 22:34:08

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