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 leaking from stanchion hardware		  New Topic  Topic Locked
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neverland
Deckhand

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USA
2 Posts
Initially Posted - 02/23/2009 :  21:44:48  Show Profile
have many leaks coming inside from stanchion and stay hardware. Looking for best way to prevent these leaks. Thanks, Bruce
BRG
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Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5368 Posts
Response Posted - 02/26/2009 :  22:01:46  Show Profile
Don Casey does a great job explaining what to do to remove the stanchions, remove the bad core spots, reinforce the area around the base of the stanchions, rebed them and remount them, meanwhile removing any soft core materials you may have around the old holes where the leak may have gotten in through the holes.

Check out <i>Don Casey's Complete Illustrated Sailboat Maintenance Manual</i> for a great "how to". I got a hardcover copy used for $33. It is worth every cent. West Marine also does a great job describing how to do it too.
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delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts
Response Posted - 02/27/2009 :  10:08:13  Show Profile  Visit delliottg's Homepage
I don't recommend using 5200 when rebedding your stanchions, simply because you occasionally have to rebed them, and 5200 is designed for adhering something for good (like the keel to hull joint). 4200 is a better choice since it's somewhat easier to remove.

I second the recommendation for Don Casey's books, well worth every penny I've spent on them. He'll also have a recommendation for what to seal your stanchions with, I think he recommends polysufide, but I'm not sure.

I search through Half Price Books for Casey titles every time I go, and just buy whatever I might find, I know I'll eventually use it, and at least read it. Pretty much the same for Nigel Calder books.
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Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts
Response Posted - 02/27/2009 :  10:10:30  Show Profile  Visit Prospector's Homepage
What is polysulfide, and where can it be bought? I hsear a lot of talk about it, but all I ever see at the chandleries are the 3M products.
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delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts
Response Posted - 02/27/2009 :  10:46:19  Show Profile  Visit delliottg's Homepage
Here's an article by [url="http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/35.htm"]Don Casey on sealants[/url].

And here's a link to some [url="http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SiteSearchView?catalogId=10001&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&keyword=polysulfide&Ntt=polysulfide&N=377+710&storeId=10001&Ntk=Primary+Search&ddkey=DisplayPageDynamicView"]polysulfide products that WM carries[/url].
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Stu Jackson C34
Admiral

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844 Posts
Response Posted - 02/27/2009 :  15:43:33  Show Profile
The ONLY place on a boat 5200 should be used is the hull to deck joint. Almost the same for 4200. Use a sealant, NOT an adhesive to rebed your stanchions. Why they continue to distribute 5200 to gullible sailors is beyond me.
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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts
Response Posted - 02/27/2009 :  16:45:40  Show Profile
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Prospector</i>
<br />What is polysulfide?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Boatlife Life Caulk--available everywhere.
Edited by - Dave Bristle on 02/27/2009 16:46:21
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Stu Jackson C34
Admiral

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844 Posts
Response Posted - 02/27/2009 :  20:27:12  Show Profile
WADR, stanchions are NOT permanent. Ever had someone hit your boat? They bend like pretzels and should be considered sacrificial.

This discussion has one of only two outcomes:

1. someone new learns they shouldn't use 5200 (gee, why do you need "special" chemicals to clean it up?, for starters)

OR

2. folks will continue to misuse it and suggest that others do likewise

Your boat, your choice, but I wouldn't.
Edited by - Stu Jackson C34 on 02/27/2009 20:28:13
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Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5368 Posts
Response Posted - 02/28/2009 :  00:07:48  Show Profile
On Dave B's advice, I am now a firm believer in Polysulfide.

Last winter when I refinished all the teak on Passage, this was the first time I'd worked with it. What impressed me was that after years and years in the elements, heat and cold, the old polysulfide still remained flexible and removeable. It took a bit of elbow grease, but lo, it could be completely removed.

On reapplication, I was worried about using it to rebed the teak, and again, if you manage it, you can prevent it smearing or dripping and getting all over everything.

And, in the few cases where it "got away from me", I waited a week or so, and I was able to rub and peel it off straightaway. No muss, no fuss. I am a convert.

I could not imagine using an adhesive to bed anything that I ever wanted to remove in the future. I'd imagine some dynamite would do it, but short of that I would not use 5200 on anything that I did not consider permanent.
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neverland
Deckhand

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USA
2 Posts
Response Posted - 02/28/2009 :  11:58:11  Show Profile
Thank you all for your input. Ordered 101 polysulfide today.

Thanks again!
Bruce
C250 #599
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Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.