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Most of the ablative coating I did last year appears intact, so I wasn't going to strip the bottom, but want to add a couple coats with the anti-slime ingredient. West marine says to prep over old paint by cleaning with solvent, sanding with 80 grit and cleaning again. Does this apply to ablative paint? I'm wondering because if you wipe with a solvent, the paint comes off onto t he rag to no end. I was thinking of sanding to roughen the surface , then hosing the dust off with water, let it dry and paint. Would that work?
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Merrick</i> <br />Most of the ablative coating I did last year appears intact, so I wasn't going to strip the bottom, but want to add a couple coats with the anti-slime ingredient. West marine says to prep over old paint by cleaning with solvent, sanding with 80 grit and cleaning again. Does this apply to ablative paint? I'm wondering because if you wipe with a solvent, the paint comes off onto t he rag to no end. I was thinking of sanding to roughen the surface , then hosing the dust off with water, let it dry and paint. Would that work? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> That's what I do. I pressure wash it first. I sand very lightly with very fine paper. With ablative paint, there shouldn't be much dirt or foreign material stuck to the hull, so it doesn't take much to get it off. Whatever you sand away is mostly paint. Some people claim you shouldn't sand ablative paint at all, but I sand it just enough to make sure it's clean and smooth. I store my boat on the hard every winter, so I usually only apply one coat of fresh paint each season, unless the paint starts to get thin. One coat seems to be enough to protect it for a season, and it doesn't accumulate a thick coat from year to year.
I just pressure wash and paint. Unless a lot of the top coat is gone, I just do the where the blue bottom coat shows and leading edges. CPP on the bottom and CPP+ (anti-slime) on top.
that sounds good. I'm going to give it a very light sanding and repaint. Pressure washing got it looking pretty good and I plan to pull it out each year so I'll see how it does.
If my bottom paint was in good shape, I would have done the same -- sand it, then paint it. If, however, you happened to wax the topsides of your boat during the season last year, I would lightly wipe the bottom with acetone-soaked-rags then sand (not the other way around). Wax creates a slippery coating which will prevent paint sticking.
Just to be sure, whenever you raise any bottom paint dust, it contains a toxic ingredient, which, if you breathe it in, it will give you a bad cough, it will make you feel like crap, and could lead to very bad future health issues.
You might want to get a respirator and wear it (3M sells them for < $20), wear goggles, a paper hood or at least a hat and wear long sleeves. Best to keep the dust out of your lungs, nose, eyes and keep it off your skin. It flies everywhere when you sand. I treat it like Round-Up or Sevin pesticide.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.