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Catalina 25 Specific Forum

Removing Old Goo from non-skid

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Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Initially Posted - 04/09/2009 : 09:53:18

I took a pile of our teak off the boat over the winter to refinish it, and its getting to be time to put it back on the boat. The PO had bedded the teak with a white caulk (likely 4200 - but who knows...)

When I go to put the grab rails back on, I'd like to have a nice clean surface to caulk to (with 4200). Does anyone have tips for removing old goo from the non-skid? Right now I am thinking scrub-brush with TSP, but I expect that there is another solution out there.

"Iris"
1984 FK/SR #4040
http://frosthaus.blogspot.com/

Take a minute to register your boat with the association!!
http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/owner_questionnaire.htm

Edited by - on

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 04/09/2009 : 09:59:19

I've had pretty good luck removing "goo" with Goo Gone, but it really depends on what it is. Goo Gone doesn't seem to touch some caulks, and bring others right up, it's a bit of a crap shoot. A green scrubby & elbow grease will generally get anything up with time & patience.

I've also tried some of the releasing agents sold to remove 4200 & things like it with little or no success. I wouldn't waste your money on them.

Edited by - on

Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 04/09/2009 : 11:26:59

Hey Dave,

When I used Goo Gone on the registration stickers on the bow, I found it really changed the colour of the gelcoat in the area. I managed to blend it in, but I still notice it. Not sure if it stripped/reacted to the wax, or was eating through oxidation, but I am wary of using Goo Gone on exposed fibreglass now.

My boat has has an extra 13 years to discolour, so you may not have the same effects.

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delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 04/09/2009 : 11:56:48

You know, now that you mention it, I remember Rita saying something like that when she was removing the old Oregon registration stickers & putting on our Washington ones. She used Goo Gone to get the stickum off, but I don't recall seeing any discoloration. I was planning on using it to remove some double stick tape the PO used to affix velcro to our cockpit seats to hold down the cushions. I'll be a bit more circumspect about it now.

Edited by - on

skrenz
Captain

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USA
351 Posts

Response Posted - 04/10/2009 : 18:57:07

I had the same problem when rebedding all the various cleats, stantions, etc. I tried all sorts of things including 3M caulk remover and this product that said it could remove set 3M 4000. None worked. The thing that I found worked best is available at pretty much any paint store. It is OOPS! Multi-Purpose Remover. Made in USA by Homax Products Inc. You still need to scrub but it loosens the bond. It will also loosen set silicon seal better than anything else I tried.

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Old Disco Queen
1st Mate

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USA
66 Posts

Response Posted - 04/10/2009 : 21:45:33

Try denatured alchol, or, better yet, acetone. Takes all the "stick" off without any damage to the gelcoat (it will remove old wax though)...worked great on Old Disco

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Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 04/10/2009 : 22:36:45

If you're lucky, it may (and should according to Don Casey) be polysufide. If it is, lift an edge with a plastic razorblade scraper and peel it off. There are reasons that it is the preferred bedding compound for most marine applications.

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psechrist
1st Mate

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USA
29 Posts

Response Posted - 04/11/2009 : 08:22:19

Hi Everyone
I have also removed all the exterior teak & understand the need to seal all the screw holes but it appears that the entire pieces were glued to the fiberglass. My question before reinstalling, is there a reason to seal the entire back of the teak or was this just the preference of the last owner?
I would like to make it easy to remove these pieces in the future for sprucing up.
After buying this boat last November, its a 1977, 25', hull 219, I have decided to take the time & make it new. It seems that every piece I take off to restore is attached to an other piece that I have a compulsion to restore. That means it probable won't see the water til years end. I believe that at some point though I will question whether a 25' boat should cost more than my house.
I will start taking some photos & posting them when things start going back together.
I read this sit daily & have picked up a lot of good ideas I have already used.
Thanks, Pat Sechrist.

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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 04/11/2009 : 11:10:30

Hi Pat... Bedding the entire surface of teak prevents moisture and mildew from having a permanent home under there, and is your best prevention from leaks. If you use polysulfide (like Boatlife Life Caulk), you will get a resilient gasket that can be easily removed in the future. It's definitely the stuff to use. I won't let 5200 or 4200 near my boat--they are both polyurethane-based, and therefore much more adhesive (5200 most of all).

The trick with polysulfide caulk is to tighten the piece lightly until caulk oozes out around the edges (don't try to wipe it off), let it cure for at least four days (a week is good), and then tighten the screws or bolts down to compress the "gasket". Then you can trim the excess with a blade--it'll practically zip off. 8-10 years from now, re-doing it will be a snap.

Edited by - Dave Bristle on 04/11/2009 11:11:17

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 04/11/2009 : 12:02:42

Speaking of 4200, I was distraught to see that my CD windo kit came with 4200 and not the 4000UV that was mentioned. I was willing to give the 4000UV a try for this application, but I'm not sure if I should go with the 4200 instead of polysufide. Has anyone actually removed a piece bedded with 4200 and cleaned up afterward?

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Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 04/12/2009 : 14:19:35

Well, I found my own cure and it was sitting under my nose the whole time. Thanks for your posts guys!

I was using a paint/varnish stripper from Lee Valley (not available in USA, but thats irrevlevant) that was labelled safe to use on wood, fibreglass, tile, and just about everything else. I decided to see how the 4200 (or whatever) would stand up to it.

I'll post photos later but here's what I did. The bases had 4 different things to be removed, including White stuff (4200?), brown goo (Polysulfide?), Clear stuff (silicone), and stain (from previous messy applications)

1. Cover a spot in goo.
2. Wait (or cover another spot, or work on the previous spot) about 1/2 hour.
3. Attack with a scrub brush (this removed 80% of the goo)
4. wipe clean with a mixture of vinegar & water
5. Re-goo
6. Scrub again. After this all that was left was usually the silicone, a tiny bit of the white stuff (4200?) and the hardest of the stain.
7. Using a dental pick, clean off the remaining stuff.

In about 2 hours I was able to clean off the spots where the handrails were attached, and the spots where the sliders for the companionway cover were.

If you can get your hands on a fibreglass safe paint stripper, it may be all you need to clean your deck!

Edited by - on

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

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USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 04/12/2009 : 14:39:24

If 4200 is that easy to remove, I guess I'll stick with polysufide. : )

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delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 04/12/2009 : 16:07:19

Chris, what was the stripper from Lee Valley called? I know it can't be shipped down here, but maybe we can find an equivalent. I know Klean Strip makes a fiberglass stripper for removing anti-fouling paint, I wonder how that'd work?

I LOVE Lee Valley, one of my all time vendors for woodworking stuff, well probably all time favorite. One of these days I'd like to visit their store.

Edited by - on

Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 04/13/2009 : 07:58:04

Hi David,

They Call it "Greensolve" paint remover.

Here is the product link... http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=49550&cat=1,190,43040 The stuff has many, many warnings about personal health and safety, and I believe them. Wear gloves, etc. when working with it.

The woodbridge store is only about 20 minutes from my office, so if I plan things right I can sneak down there when SWMBO isn't looking.

Edited by - on

Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 04/13/2009 : 09:13:12

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Dave Bristle
 
The trick with polysulfide caulk is to tighten the piece lightly until caulk oozes out around the edges (don't try to wipe it off), let it cure for at least four days (a week is good), and then tighten the screws or bolts down to compress the "gasket". Then you can trim the excess with a blade--it'll practically zip off. 8-10 years from now, re-doing it will be a snap.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Dave, While I agree completely with the steps here, one of the problems I found on Iris was that the PO had gotten a little agressive with the razor blade when it came time to trim. Around the base of each trim piece is a groove in the gelcoat from repeated attacks with razor blades.

Please go lightly with your blade when it is time to trim the excess caulk from the boat.

Edited by - Prospector on 04/13/2009 09:16:39

Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

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3159 Posts

Response Posted - 04/13/2009 : 09:22:39

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Dave5041
 Speaking of 4200, I was distraught to see that my CD windo kit came with 4200 and not the 4000UV that was mentioned. I was willing to give the 4000UV a try for this application, but I'm not sure if I should go with the 4200 instead of polysufide. Has anyone actually removed a piece bedded with 4200 and cleaned up afterward?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

A couple of the spots where I had smeared the 4200 by mistake when I was installing the lift struts for the pop-top were cleaned up while I prepped the surfaces I was trying to clean. The paint remover took it off the decks no problem.

I now have no fears with regards to using 4200.

I would like to do a test with some 5200 and this paint remover to see if it has the same characteristics, however, I have a hard time justifying opening a tube of 5200 just to see if it will work the same way. Since both caulks are based on the same formula, I imagine it would also lift, but guessing and knowing are 2 different things.

As for 4200 being too permanent, I installed our gauges with 4200 after getting them serviced by SR Mariner last year. Then I put my knee through our knotlog while out racing last summer, and had to send it back in to be re-serviced. The 4200 did hold well, but I found that I was able to slide a razor blade in and lift, and the combination of slicing and lifting got the gauge out without any more trouble than I would have expected. I will be using the paint stripper to clean the hole to prep it to re-install the gauge.

Of course, I'll also be epoxying th ehole to seal it, now that I've figured out how that works. Holy Carp, I'm beginning to sound like someone who knows something about boat maintenance. Soon I'll be able to argue the merits of cetol vs. oil with th erest of you.

Edited by - Prospector on 04/13/2009 09:25:22

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