Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I have a 2007WK with wheel steering. Bought it new last fall and am just starting to get into the nuts and bolts of it (thanks for everyone's replies on the cockpit speakers). The steering throw is pretty decent to starboard, but not very good at all to port. I've messed with the cable adjustments all I can and the rudder control bar seems to be traveling as far as the opening in the transom will let it. Being offset on the starboard side of the rudder (the transom hole as well of course), this results in a lot less turning ability to port than starboard. Is this common? If so, has anyone come up with a remedy for it? I come from a tiller C-25, so I was pretty spoiled with maneuverability. I was prepared for a little less control coming in, but this just doesn't seem right. It seems like the control bar should have been designed with an "s" in it, with the transom hole place in the center right in front of the rudder...not sure why they'd set it up this way. Thanks!
Eric... I agree that the geometry of coupling an arm to a transom hung rudder and having that arm centered might be possible with a shaped curved arm. The expense would be greater however and would the trade be of value? Initially, the wheel steering on the c250 had greater throws but because of problems with the initial push/pull single cable system, a rudder stop plate was incorporated in the system and it continues to be a part of the later pull/pull two cable system.
Steerage for docking the 250 is greatly aided by linking the rudder and outboard. Doing so will likely eliminate any concern that the rudder is more limited in one direction. A very easy and cheap linkup can be made using a soft link setup.
That's a pretty cool setup. How difficult is it to use the position clamp on the motor once you want to really power up? (haven't really looked at mine yet)
After leaving the docks... there are two ways of setting the motor up for powered cruising. Both require disconnecting the line between the motor and rudder. One has the line reconnecting to a loop of line from the upper pintle that has been sized so that when connecting to it, the motor is set for straight running.
The other is to simply let the line from the motor dangle and to use the motor lock mechanism. On my first motor, an 8hp Honda Classic the turning friction adjustment was a bolt difficult to get at and it was unreasonable to use it to lock the motor centered so the loop method was used. On the current Honda 8, there is a lever to lock the motor turning in the front that is very easy to use so it is the method of choice.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.