Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I installed the shims today Catalina Direct sent to me to correct my centerboard klunking and was really dissapointed. First off, the kit included layers of spacers to be epoxyed together and then onto the board pretty far forward of the pivot pin and did NOT include the shims for the bronze pivot. (which is where my problem really is). With this solution it would seem to be necessary to lower the board a bit to eliminate the clunking. When I reinstalled the hangers that hold the bronze pin to the keel the bolt ends were not flush with the hull. Trouble is, I was so happy with the way things were going at the "dropping portion" of the process I am not certain if they were flush before or not. Plus they had bottom paint on them when I started which probably camoflaged them a bit. <b>Can anyone tell me if they are supposed to be flush? </b> <b>Also has anyone had any luck finding just the nylon washers used to shim the pivot pin?</b> I hit a Lowes, Home Depot,Ace, and West Marine and nobody had them large enough. HELP! Willy
Willy, I'm not sure what the shims are made of, but you can buy sheet stock of brass from hobby shops, or sheets of UHMW plastic in the form of thin cutting boards. Go to a Bed, Bath & Beyond, or places similar to that like Linens & Things to find the cutting boards I'm talking about. They're usually advertised as "folding" cutting boards. Epoxy won't stick very well to UHMW, but if it's going around a bolt that shouldn't be that big of a deal.
I found the nylon/plastic? washers at our local TruValue hardware. They have a good assortment of bulk nuts, bolts, washers, etc. Just from memory they may not be quite as big in diameter as the original but as I recall I just slipped one on each side along with the original and it helped/worked (at least as good as a person would expect). I will probably be at the boat tomorrow and the way I do things I must have bought some extra. You're a long way away, but if nothing easier is working out for you and a few days mail time isn't a problem, let me know (with an address) and I will slip a few in an envelope to you (gratis).
Willy I also purchased plastic shims at Tru-Value, also if the blocks aren't touching the bottom of the boat try reinstalling the bearing the same way it came out...........
Check to be sure the blocks didn't get inverted... are the blocks sticking below the hull also? If they are, that would explain why the bolts didn't recess into the blocks, otherwise, yes the blocks and the bolts should be (fairly) flush. My blocks are recessed about 1/8" and the bolt heads are proud of the blocks about the same amount so that they finish about flush with the hull.
The blocks are countersunk so as to receive most of the bolt head.
Seems like I used some sheet ABS plastic to make shims from, perhaps from a bleach jug or similar, I don't recall.
Found the plastic shims! At a pool & spa store! Sawed the heads off some 2" bolts to use as guides for re-attachment when I removed the brackets. Tapped the cross theaded hole ...perfectly. Still having trouble after removing the guides getting the bolts to thread correctly. Gave up tonight before I screwed something up again...getting a bit tired. Really think this is a two man job. Back at it tomorrow! Wily
Willy, what the C25 guys do with those 1500 lb keels is to screw all thread sections in which then allows slowly bringing the blocks into place with nuts on the long all thread sections. Then when the blocks are in place, they remove one all thread at a time replacing with keel bolts.
If it keeps giving you problems, try that. Another advantage of that technique is that it allows putting a bit of locktite (not red) on one bolt at a time. I use just a touch of blue locktite.
Finally completed! It really helped to have another person. The thing is, if you jack the centerboard up to put the screws in its pretty near impossible to make the many lateral adjustments to line the screws up correctly! With someone holding it, they can shift it as needed to get things straight! Yahoo! Thanks for everyones advice! Willy
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.