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She's On the Hard [:(]

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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Initially Posted - 10/10/2002 : 21:34:29

Sorta sad... But now some projects will start--stripping the bottom (overdue from the DPO), installing the solar vent (so it'll run over the winter), rigging the convertible main cabin double berth, refinishing the hatch boards and steps, bedding a couple of stantions (at least), replacing the leaky compass.....................

How does anyone like to get the pocked-up paint off the bottom? I'm thinking about the paste stripper with cloth or paper covering it.

Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT

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osmepneo
Past Commodore

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USA
1420 Posts

Response Posted - 10/11/2002 : 04:40:48

On my Daysailer the previous owner had paint 475000 (slight exaggeration - probably had five coats, different colors) coats of paint on the bottom. I suspect sometimes without having cleaned last seasons crude!
When I painted it was the worst job. Sanding didn't do it. Scrapping didn't do it. Strip-eze didn't work. Finally I used the stripping compound that is covered by paper and that worked best. Still took two or three applications before I had removed all the paint.
Good luck on a dirty, difficult job.

Don Peet
C25, 1665, osmepneo, sr/wk
Also on the hard

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frich
Captain

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USA
418 Posts

Response Posted - 10/11/2002 : 07:29:35

Dave

I have seen boat bottoms stripped by blasting them with walnit shells. It is safe for the environment and does a great job, costs about (4)boat units for a C25.

Frank Rich
84 C25 sk

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tom
1st Mate

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USA
52 Posts

Response Posted - 10/11/2002 : 09:10:42

WHERE ARE YOU PUTTING THE SOLAR VENT AND HOW MUCH IS IT?
ALSO WHAT ARE YOU USING ON YOUR STEPS I NEED TO DO THAT ALSO.

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tinob
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1883 Posts

Response Posted - 10/11/2002 : 09:26:44

Dave,

We occasionally see fellows strip their boats bottom chemically and it looks for all the world like a Steven King horror show...with unanimous, "I'll never do that again" refrains from the DIYers. If you intend doing this in a yard better check with them regarding new DEC regulations. We got a notice that any bottom work must be done by certificated personnel. That includes stripping and painting.

When my time came to remove the bottom I opted for a blasted removal. Currently the material of preference is plastic bead blasting. The yard did three in the last week alone. The end result was exceptional. But environMENTALLY friendly, I don't think so. They reclaim the plastic beads from under the tent they construct around the boat but use an exhaust fan that spews a cloud of (usually) blue dust...the poison laden bottom paint.

I think the bottom line here is a scam to get more yard work, the labor used by the yard to paint the boat usually consists of unskilled day laborers.

Good luck
Val on "CALISTA" # 3936

Val Bisagni

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 10/11/2002 : 14:18:46

"How does anyone like to get the pocked-up paint off the bottom? I'm thinking about the paste stripper with cloth or paper covering it." - Dave Bristle

I think a lot depends on the condition of the paint that you want to remove from the hull. Last Spring I did my bottom job and the paint I was removing from North Star's hull was fairly thick and loose, so I used a pull-type, two-handed scraper. At first I tried sanding the paint off, but it didn't take long for the sandpaper to get clogged rendering it useless. I didn't consider chemical strippers because, being somewhat of an amatuer wood worker/furniture maker, I detest the mess and so-so results of chemical strippers and because there was an epoxy barrier coat on the hull that I didn't want to harm. I didn't consider farming the job out because I wanted to bond with my new boat and give it my personal loving attention(read cheap bastard! <img src=icon_smile_approve.gif border=0 align=middle>).

Anyway, the old paint on the hull looked like the crackle finish of an old antique table and when I drew the scraper against the hull, the paint would fly off like wood chips from a chainsaw. The scraper took the paint off down to the epoxy barrier coat, but it was still a lot of work(Note-If you use a scraper, you may want to ease/round off the sharp corners of the blade with a file to prevent gouging). Even though the paint was coming off fairly easy, the scraping motion was still a killer on the arms! <img src=icon_smile_dead.gif border=0 align=middle> It didn't take very long before I ended up scraping for thirty seconds and then resting for 60. After scraping the entire hull down to the barrier coat, I then used a sander to clean it up.

Looking back, it doesn't seem like it was that difficult of a job to do. But, then again, that was last spring and my body has had time to heal and my therapist says I'm making great progress and close to a breakthrough <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>!

Don Lucier, North Star
C25 SR/FK

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Douglas
Master Marine Consultant

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1595 Posts

Response Posted - 10/11/2002 : 22:18:35

If your going to do it don't use a chemical. To start with most yards wont allow it. Use a 5 hp shop vac hooked up to a good orbital sander. The sander should be 8 hole with vacume attachment. Use 60 or 80 grit to knock off the big stuff or thick layers. Use 120 / 160 to finish. Use a resperator unless you wan't to poison yourself. Good tools and the right aproach result in a good job. <img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b2da22b3127cce9d639e4f88f90000005410" border=0>

Doug&Ruth
Boatless in Seattle
Tacoma Wa.

Edited by - on

dgabel
1st Mate

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USA
75 Posts

Response Posted - 10/14/2002 : 17:32:45

Dave, I did that job 2 years ago, before she went into the water. I used everything -- sander, grinder, chemical stripper. I did NOT use the remover with the paper cover, and, on reflection, think I should have. The chemical that did the best job I got at a paint and wallpaper store. It's called Dad's, and it comes in a blue and yellow can. Used two gallons.

If you use this chemical, be careful. It will definitely burn your skin, and it will soften fiberglass if you leave it on too long. I wound up wearing long sleeves and old jeans, with a bandanna tied over my head. I used a respirator, and plastic safety goggles (the remover will eat through the goggles, so you'll likely use two or more of them). I wore old leather work gloves, because that stuff eats through the thin latex gloves I started with.

Where the paint was loose (I had about 1/16 inch on the bottom) it flew off when hit with the scraper, as Don said. But there were lots of places where it was tight to the hull, and there I had to sand. I got two saw horses under the hull (the boat was on a cradle, two feet in the air) and put planks on them to I could lie on my back and work on the underside.

It's not easy. Took me about a month of weekends to get ready to paint. But the speed increase through the water was remarkable, so I think it was worth it.

I did it in my side yard, not in a boat yard. I don't know what the reaction would have been if I'd been in a boat yard.

Good luck.

Dave Gabel
Walkure
Hull 1484, 1979

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tinob
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1883 Posts

Response Posted - 10/15/2002 : 12:11:58

Dave B,

Take equal portions of Don's hilarious description of his project and Dave Gabel's and mix well, then contact your local sand blaster, pay him his due and be done with it. You'll thank me for it. Maybe not though, first pain must be felt to appreciate my contribution.

Val on "CALISTA" # 3936

Val Bisagni

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 10/15/2002 : 16:12:06

Val, I'm sure you've got something there... I was trying to think of the environment at least a little. This past Spring, a guy a few boats away in the yard scraped about 30 years of paint off, leaving 30'x10' PILE of toxic chips worthy of a Superfund site. I don't know how well the sandblasters can contain their work, but it would seem a lot of it will blow away. I'll have to price it out and see what the yard says about it. A huge amount of paint goes into the air and water via disk sanders there. I'm amazed...

Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT

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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 10/15/2002 : 17:04:52

Dave,
Seems like many refer to the large mess you are faced with when the chemical stripper has finished it's work.
Other than all the dust, I was very pleased with the results achieved with my oscillating/finishing sander. If I was facing your project with what I know now - I'd go with Doug's recipe. If you use an orbital sander that's designed to be attached to a dust collection device, you'll certainly capture a very high percentage of the dust.
Do I dare mention the "B" word here? What product(s) are you going to refinish the bottom with that will avoid future build-up?
Don't forget the stretching exercises before you climb under Passage . . . <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>

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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 10/15/2002 : 17:21:24

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
What product(s) are you going to refinish the bottom with that will avoid future build-up?
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>
Steve (OJ)... I plan to put a barrier coat on; then, paying careful attention to surface preparation, put on a first coat of ablative bottom paint in blue or black, and then cover it with a coat of red. As the ablative wears away, the undercoat will start to be exposed, suggesting a new coat in red. I think the first coat is the critical one--from what I've seen, the ablatives adhere very well to themselves, but the adhesion to the epoxy seems to be the cause of flaking. Their chemistry is supposed to preserve the biocide until it wears off, so overcoating is not needed until the paint is almost gone. That's the theory, anyway, so I'll go with it.

Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT

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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 10/15/2002 : 17:38:35

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
Do I dare mention the "B" word here?
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>
Oops, I meant "B" as in blisters . . .

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