Association Forum - Jib Hits Bow Railing & Lifeline

Assn Members Area · Join

Home.

Association Forum

Ships Store

Cruising

Racing

Technical Tips

Photo Gallery - New

Boat Search - Updated

Manuals & Brochures

Swap Meet

Links

Officer Flag Line & Staff

Bylaws & Constitution

Members Area

Join the Association

Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.

Association Forum

Username:	Password:
Save Password
Forgot your Password?

All Forums

Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 250 Specific Forum

Jib Hits Bow Railing & Lifeline

New Topic

Topic Locked

Printer Friendly

Author

Topic

srf2
1st Mate

Member Avatar

32 Posts

Initially Posted - 05/31/2009 : 04:31:21

I just started my 2nd summer with my 2008 250MKII Hull #958. My Jib sail touches the bow railing and lifeline while under sail on both sides. I'm sure others have this issue as well. Has anyone had their jib shortened their about 1 foot from the bottom to eliminate this contact? Thank you.

Edited by - on

Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
3704 Posts

Response Posted - 05/31/2009 : 08:00:24

My 135 touches the railing and lifeline by a few inches. My C22 jib did this too. It is not a problem. I would recommend that you do not modify the jib. That would reduce sail area and power, especially as you furl.

Edited by - on

zebra50
Captain

Members Avatar

USA
408 Posts

Response Posted - 05/31/2009 : 08:23:28

Mine also hits, but I made sure that the jib is raised up as high as it can go on the furler which helped a bit.

Edited by - on

srf2
1st Mate

Members Avatar

32 Posts

Response Posted - 05/31/2009 : 09:53:01

Thanks. I looked at the Catalina stock photos of the 250 and there the jib also touches the railing and lifelines. I will see if I can lift it a bit.

Edited by - on

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
5376 Posts

Response Posted - 05/31/2009 : 20:31:54

On Passage, I originally had that problem - the jib was attatched to the halyard by a short wire cable, and tack connected directly to the rotor on the furler. I know this setup was the intended configuration, but I did not like it.

I eliminated the short wire cable by connecting the halyard to the head (via the swivel) and made up the difference by connecting the tack to the furler rotor by a line of equal length to the wire cable.

So far, it works fine, and prevents chafe when the headsail luffs or when hauling in the sheet. I haven't had any reason to change it, everything works fine. I've moved the sheet blocks further aft to compensate for the longer angle.

Edited by - on

Tradewind
Admiral

Members Avatar

USA
531 Posts

Response Posted - 06/04/2009 : 13:14:44

I've noticed this problem using my 135 while the 150 was at the sailmaker for repair, the 150 must have a shorter luff since both sails were hoisted as high as possible on the CDI furler.

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 06/04/2009 : 19:28:12

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Tradewind
 I've noticed this problem using my 135... the 150 must have a shorter luff...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">I think the convention is that 130 and 150 genoas are cut with higher clews for better visibility when cruising. The extra 5% in a 135 or 155 is generally due to a lower clew, which lengthens the LP measurement slightly (better for racing). (Certainly there are exceptions to the convention.) So the foot of a 150 is likely to angle up more than that of a 135.

Edited by - Dave Bristle on 06/04/2009 19:29:47

Prospector
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 06/05/2009 : 06:56:59

Do you guys have different sheeting arrangements on the 250's than we do on the 25's?

I have stanction patches put on our 155% and would be distressed if I didn't have a "deck sweeper" on raceday. We sheet outside the stanctions, although it was suggested by my sailmaker that we move a few things to allow inside sheeting on upwind legs.

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 06/05/2009 : 09:42:24

With the relatively narrow beam and single (meaning wider) spreaders of a C-25, I wonder if you could sheet a big genny inside.

Edited by - on

Sloop Smitten
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
1181 Posts

Response Posted - 06/05/2009 : 10:14:28

When Jim Baumgart and I raced in the Regatta de los Todos Santos last year he had his genny sheeted inside. I don't remember the size. Possibly a 135. It really improved pointing and put the rail in the water.

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 06/05/2009 : 11:08:00

Maybe there are some optical illusions happening, but either one of Jim's stanchions is leaning outwards or the other one leans inwards?

Edited by - on

Sloop Smitten
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
1181 Posts

Response Posted - 06/07/2009 : 21:12:28

Yeah, it's also taller. He had to do a quick repair prior to our departure and that was what WM had on hand.

Edited by - on

Arlyn Stewart
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
2980 Posts

Response Posted - 06/08/2009 : 06:08:12

My comments may not be very welcome because most sailors think of a furled headsail as something that needs no adjustment. I'll make some argument to rethink that.

The headsail should be adjusted for the conditions. First, the luff should be hard for a breeze and eased for light air. Second, the sail should be positioned high for light air and off wind sailing (to reduce life line distortion of the sail) and low for working to weather in a breeze.

If using the CDI furler, it can be rigged in two fashions. One has a fixed pendant at the tack and the halyard is used to set the luff tension. The other uses the halyard only to raise the sail and an adjustable tack pendant is used for luff tension.

I think the adjustable tack pendant is the far better way to go for several reasons.

<ul><li>It allows geting the sail as high as possible to ease the life line distortion</li><li>It allows much easier tensioning of the luff</li><li>It allows lowering the sail for a breeze and thus reduced heeling</li></ul>

The tack should have a small quality 3/32 nylon pendant line several feet long that is rove about three turns between the furler and the tack cringle to obtain the necessary total luff strength to downhaul the jib.

The sail is hauled fully to the top by the halyard prior to tensioning the luff with the tack line. Because of the multiple roves, the tack line now has a multi purchase effect making tensioning easy. This will place the sail as far above the deck as possible for as little chaff and distortion of the sail as is possible.

In a breeze and going to weather... the tack line can be eased, the halyard eased a bit and then the tack line re-hardened to bring the sail as close to the deck as possible thereby lowering the forces aloft and reducing heeling.

On the CDI, the halyard is not an effective way to tension the luff as it is very difficult to harden it enough.

Edited by - Arlyn Stewart on 06/08/2009 06:15:01

Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
3704 Posts

Response Posted - 06/08/2009 : 12:35:59

This is why I prefered the Schaeffer furler we had on our C22. It used the real jib halyard to raise the jib. We had that halyard led back to the cockpit where it could be used to adjust the luff. It was more expensive than the CDI but that control was worth the extra $ in my opinion.

Arlyn, interesting ideas you put forth. I had actually tried mounting a small block with cleat for the CDI tack line. Worked OK but was a lot of hardware up there. I like your three turns method. Still, one of the reasons we got a furler was to not be making trips to the bow.

For long runs I'd do it but for our little lake probably not.

Edited by - on

Topic

New Topic

Topic Locked

Printer Friendly

Jump To:

Association Forum

Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.