Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Hello, I've just completed my second sail in the "new to me" 1984 25 Cat "Emery C" and I absolutely love this boat. I even discovered the joys and benefits of a swing keel when I tried to get cute and sail a little too close to a shallow spot that I thought was a few feet closer in. I didn't run aground...I (as we said in the Navy) "touched bottom". Anyway, could somebody tell me how to properly rig the reefing system? The PO had a drawing but I'm having a little problem with following his instructions. Is the reefing line secured to the boom or should it somehow lead back to the cockpit? I don't plan on being out when I would need to reef but I'd just like to have it there and rigged right just in case. (A lot of things happened in my life that I didn't plan on).
John & Emery Keeler S/V "Emery C" '84 SR/SK #4260 Ocean City NJ
Check out the "manuals and brochures" section of the site. It gives you the "book" set up for reefing. There are a number of threads with photos showing how to set up single and double line reefing led to the cockpit, which is the preferred method.Just do a search under reefing and you should get lots of good info.
You didn't say which reefing system you have. Two line: 1st. On the mast just below where the mast and boom meet there should be a pad eye on one side and a cleat on the other side. Take a 1/4" about 6-8 ft. long with a knot tied in one end and thread it up through the pad eye, from there through the reefing grommet on the main sail's luff and down through the center hole of the cleat. Tie a figure 8 knot in the line and loosely cleat it off. 2nd. Near the end of the boom there should be a pad eye on one side and a turning block on the other side. Same procedure but using a longer line, with a knot in the end, thread it up through the pad eye, from there through the reefing cringle on the sail's leech, down and through the turning block, and forward along the boom to a cleat. Depending on how far forward the cleat is, you may have to run the line through one or two pad eyes before you get to the cleat. also, if your lines lead aft to the cockpit, the reefing lines may go to turning blocks at the front of the boom and base of the mast on their way to the cockpit. A single line system will combine the two lines into one, starting either at the boom end or the mast. From what I've read on this forum, preference seems to be to start at the mast. The line would run: mast pad eye - luff cringle - front boom turning block - end boom turning block - leech cringle - 2nd end boom turning block - cleat on boom (or back to mast and down if lead aft to cockpit). hope that makes sense.
A one line reef system is easier but a two line reefing system will provide for a better sail shape and is also fairly easy to set as well. We replaced our single line system with a double and are glad we did.
In a pinch you can take 2, four foot lines and reef the main. Ease the halyard and bring the reefing cringle at the tack down to the boom. Thread the line and tie it under the boom with a square knot (also known as a reef knot). At the leech (aft end) I'd tie one end of the line to the boom a little aft of the cringle. Thread the line through the flogging leech, pull it down, and tie it to the boom. By having the knot aft you can pull the foot of the sail tight.
Raise and tighten halyard.
Voila, main reefed.
I usually don't bother with the little lines that bunch the sail up (racers never do) but if you try it don't put ANY load on the sail fabric.
I have a 2 line reefing set up for the first reef but do the above to tie in the 2nd reef. I can also move the 2 lines between the flattening reef/cunningham, first reef, and 2nd reef. They make hooks for that.
There is no need to avoid conditions where you need to reef. You should always be prepared. With the first reef in and 110% jib flying you can be out having fun in winds 20 - 25 knots. With the 2nd reef and a storm jib you can stay in the harbor and have fun in 30 knots.
That's a lot of wind. I would not be out above that but if I got caught I'd be prepared.
Ask and I shall receive. I just got more (and better) answers in three hours than I would ever be able to get in weeks of research. Looks like I should donate some money to the cause because I can see me asking a whole bunch more questions as I figure this boat out. Thanks for all the replies. Answers to Reefing 101 will give me something to ponder tonight while the storms roll through.
The PO on my boat used a 1 line reef system by Harken, so I do also. I learned how to reef my boat at the Harken website. I put a reef in the sail more than I thought I would. I seem to be the only one in the family who likes the rail in the water. Peace.
Good explanation guys. I've never reefed here in Daytona Bch., our winds are generally more in the 10 to 15 bracket. But I've got a single reef main and a storm jib in the v-berth Jim, the way you're talking makes me want to try a 15 to 25 sometime!
The thing about sailing in 25 knots is not reefing and flying the storm jib. Its getting in and out of the slip. Your boat will be moving a lot. Make sure the engine is running well and go out and come back in a lot faster than you normally would. Deploy extra fenders and use outboard steering to help. Anticipate the wind and use it to help you move into the slip.
Also, your tiller pilot won't be much help.
Hijacking this thread into a "boat handling in high winds" I always either head straight upwind to reef or more commonly I will sheet in and head straight down wind. Then the autopilot can hold course. Remember, I am almost always sailing single handed.
Changing jibs at sea in rough weather I always head down wind, sheet in the main, drop the jib, throw it below, hank on and hoist the new and worry about bagging the old later.
I was at the point last year of deciding which reefing method to use: two line or one line. Each has its own advantage, but I chose two line method.
For me, the two line system allows me to secure the front part of the sail down and forward to the mast -- thereby taking stress off the sail slugs -- and helps to have a better shape of the sail.
After the forward reef line is set, I set the second.
I have two line reefing and can do it on the fly singlehanded. Just set the tillerpilot so you are close hauled. Drop and secure tack reef. Ease the main a bit, haul on toping lift and then haul in the clew reef and secure it. Go back and release the topping lift and haul in on main. You just keep going and don't even slow up much. Do the same with jib change. Set course close hauled. Backwind jib by hauling on lazy sheet. Drop the jib using downhaul. Release and secure the halyard and sheets. Unhank the jib and stuff it down the hatch. Bring up the new jib and hank it on, attach halyard, downhaul and sheets. Go back to cockpit and haul it up and sheet it in. It takes me about 8 to 10 mins to change the jib singlehanded. I try to improve my time each change.
With roller furling and a single line reefing system on the main(all lines to cockpit), I can reef the main in a minute or less usually and reduce the genoa in 20 seconds. The only time I leave the cockpit is to secure the elastic cords hanging from the main mid-sail reefing gromets.
Paul invited me sailing with him this past weekend and I can state w/o question his reefing system is terrific. Paul, maybe you can post some pics. Sorry I was too busy taking pics of the scenary. Steve A
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.