Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I have a 96 Evinrude 9.9 LS and the pull start mechanism is acting up. Its not always engaging with the flywheel. i.e. the cord just pulls in and out freely. Sometimes a whack will get it to engage so I figure somethings sticky. I'm thinking about removing the plastic cover to look inside but I'm worried the spring loaded parts will fly apart. There's three bolt/screws holding the cover and one big flat head screw in the center on top.
I was hoping somebody might be able to give me some advice before I take it apart. I haven't been able to find any helpful info online.
Thanks, Pete
Peter Keddie Turkey Point, ON 79 Catalina 25 Fixed Keel #1050
Pete, On my '97 Johnson, which is very similar to the Evinrude (I think, take with a large grain of salt, I'm not a small engine mechanic), when you removed the three bolts, the recoil mechanism came away with it w/o anything flying out never to be seen again. It was designed that way so that if the recoil mechanism did fail, you could remove it, and wrap a line around the flywheel to start it. I think most outboards still have this facility, I know my brand new Tohatsu does. They even provide the extra cord to do so.
If it were me, I'd take it apart carefully, taking pictures as I went if it seems complex to get back together, clean it, then do the WD-40 as Dave suggests on obvious points that need lubrication. That'll probably fix what ails it.
Oh, and that big flat nut in the center I'd leave alone, that's almost certainly the spring retention bolt, and you shouldn't have to touch it (I think, see caveat above).
The only difference between a Johnson and an Evinrude is the color of the paint and the decals.
David is correct, if the three smaller bolts are spaced evenly around the outer edge of the recoil assembly you should be able to remove the them and remove the whole recoil assembly as one piece (much like on your lawnmower). Do not remove the larger flathead screw in the center.
On most recoil starters for small motors such as lawn mowers, portable generators, and perhaps outboard motors, there is one or two spring-loaded tabs that engage a portion of the motor that rotates constantly when the motor is running. The springs push the tabs out when you are pulling on the starter cord and allow the tabs to move out of the way once the motor is running. sometimes they get gunked up (a technical term!) and need to be cleaned and re lubed. Usually, removing the pull starter assembly gives you accress to the tabs. Some outboards have a more intricate pull starter mechanism. Pull the cover and take a look. some well-placed WD-40 just might do the trick.
WD is good for freeing things up and cleaning gunky parts. So it will get things working again. Unfortunately, there's something in WD-40 that eventually dries out, so that things go back to the way they were after a while.
If you don't open the recoiler, the WD will get it working again for a while.
If you do pull the recoiler, clean it with WD-40, then use some grease or general lubricating oil to keep it from seizing up next time.
You don't need anything exotic, these are not delicate machined parts. Just clean it thoroughly with wd40 or carb/choke cleaner and a <u>thin</u> layer of grease. Move the pawls through their range repeatedly to distribute the grease, eliminate globs, and insure free movement.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.