Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I was looking at the bimini and thinking about the last time I was out in the rain and wind and thought, wouldn't it be great to have a dodger!
Well, I don't know exactly where to start? Does CD sell a purpose-fit dodger? Could I just order a standard version from Defender? Or do I have to get one that's custom made?
I was also thinking the because of the pop-top, the dodger would need to have a means of getting out of the way when you popped it up. I wonder how that would work?
For any C25 owners with a pop top who currently has a dodger, pls let me know the standard procedure.
Wet in Connecticut . . . .
Bruce Ross Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032 Port Captain — Milford, CT
I thought of that as an add-on to Passage's bimini--something a canvas shop should be able to add easily. I figured on a panel in the middle, the width of the pop-top, with two vertical zippers to allow the top to be raised or just for ventilation (like many dodgers have).
BTW, you don't know what "wet" is... Today on this end of the state, we had cars in the Mystic Aquarium parking lot with water up to their windows!
I'd get a canvas guy to tell me how to do it. You might only need snaps on the teak rails on both sides, holding it tightly across the slider. There's virtually no such thing as a "standard" dodger--the nature of the beast is that it has to be custom-fit to your boat, hardware, lines led aft, etc., etc., to get the tight fit you need for visibility and weather-resistance. BTW, your canvas is Sunbrella "Toast".
John--you're referring to the sliding companionway hatch--it's a small part of the big C-25 "pop-top" that's just inside the handrails.
Bruce, Our boat came with a complete enclosure, with the dodger part similar to the pictures above. They added a strip of fabric on all sides of the bimini to give more of a lip, and then used zippers. On the front and back of the bimini they used 2 zippers ( each zipping from the middle out), and 1 zipper on each side. Hopefully, I'll get out to the boat this weekend and get pictures.
Does the main come down all the way with a C 25 bimini? I was talking with Dave R in another thread and he says his bimini is about 3 inches too tall and he can get his main full.
I'm real interested in getting one for this Texas sun but I don't want to take a performance hit.
Peter, several folks here have biminis under tall rigs--they appear to provide sitting headroom only, due to the lower boom. But mine under the standard rig only provided "stooping headroom" for someone 5-10 or taller (sorta like the cabin). Most biminis have enough length on the main bow, below the point where the secondary bow attaches to it, that you can cut it down to the height you need. But you should check on that. I cut off a few inches to get the exact height and clearance I wanted.
I own a tall rig model and have replaced my original main with one with the dimensions of a Capri 25, which is a foot shorter than the original tall rig main. It gives a full 6 ft clearance under the boom, sailing capabilities have not been affected by much, if at all, and the enjoyment in the cockpit gone up tenfold. I am about to purchase a bimini top which will give me headroom, then again I am 5'7", but still...
With a Capri 25 type main sail, is your boom above the mast slot? with my TR main full up, my boom is a little bit below the slot. I added brackets to the deck of our C-25 TR outside the coaming and am able to use the bimini from our C-22 on the C25 as well, WITHOUT having to reef the main. Close hauled and pointing high the boom almost touches the bimini, which has a 36" height. Yes, it is basically sitting/stooping height only, but I didn't want to have to buy another bimini. If I was buying one from scratch for the C25, I think I would get one narrower and cut it shorter to fit on top of the coaming so I could walk around it easier. I would also install the sliding brackets deck mounts.
I recently replaced my TR main with a SR main so I could raise the boom and add a bimini. With a SR main I can easily walk under the boom with full sail and I am 6'1". My plan is to put a bimini on the coping which I can stand under without stooping. I am looking at one now form West Marine that looks like it will fit. Their Bimini's are 30% off right now which makes it just under $300 plus shipping and taxe (if any). I am very happy with the arrangement.
Blue Nose, I'm curious... Are you hoisting to the top? Does your gooseneck end up above the mast gate (opening in the slot) when the sail is up? How about when it's down. I'm curious because I'm concerned about recommending something to TR owners that might cause the gooseneck slider to come out while under way--a potential disaster.
I hoist the main to the top and the boom gooseneck is above the mast gate significantly. There is no way the gooseneck can drop unless there is a main halyard failure. Even if that occurred, I have two sailstops directly under the gooseneck which will prevent it from coming down. I also use a topping lift so the boom is secure. It works very well and I have had no problem. Hope I answered your question.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.