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Hull Painting

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Blue Nose
1st Mate

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67 Posts

Initially Posted - 07/08/2009 : 14:30:56

I am going to repaint my hull this winter while the boat is out. The PO painted it blue and did a decent job but I want to go darker blue and really want it to shine and stay on. Short of spraying it on, what suggestions do you have for preparation, apllication, and brand paint. I have seen some that were brushed on but you can't even tell - the strokes just close up so nicely it looks sprayed. Do you put a sealer over it? Pics would be extremely helpful too!

Thanks

1986 C-25 FK Tall Rig
"Blue Nose"
Mobjack Bay, Virginia

Edited by - on

Happy D
Admiral

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921 Posts

Response Posted - 07/09/2009 : 08:11:04

You’ve asked a pretty big question.
The very best paint is a two-part linear polyurethane. It goes by the names Imron, Awlgrip Interlux Perfection, ect, but they are all two-part linear polyurethane. It is the hardest paint and will out shine all the rest. It is best applied by spray, but can be applied by roll and tip method and beautiful results can be achieved. The down side, it is very expensive. If you do not use supplied breathing air when spraying, you will die shortly after spraying it. It is extremely hazardous to the environment and your health. This is why most people use roll and tip method. I would still use a respirator with the appropriate cartridges to roll and tip, even when mixing it. You really shouldn’t open the cans without having your respirator on.
Then there are one-part polyurethane paints. These are a little less hazardous, cost less, don’t last quite as long, and are applied in the same fashion.
And the paints continue down the ladder until you arrive at plain old enamel porch and deck paint. Don’t laugh, high gloss porch paint can be sprayed and give beautiful results, it just doesn’t last as long.
Painting a boat consist of using a system, not just paint. Whatever system you decide to use, the correct fillers, thinners and primers must be used with that product. No substitutions will work, generally. At $200.00 / gallon, you need to use the exact right stuff. It is expensive. Temperature and surface prep are critical.
<b>The prep work is 95% of the job. Painting the boat is the last and easiest step in the whole process.</b>
If you don’t have it in you to hand sand the entire hull 3 or 4 times, you may not be happy with the outcome. It is very long and hard work sanding the hull of the boat. It must be done perfectly, especially if you tend to go with a dark color. I am sanding my hull for the 3rd time right now. It takes days to sand one side, and now you get to do the other side. It’s endless.
I would recommend you get a copy of the Interlux marine painting guide and read it. It will help you immensely. http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/
Pick one system and stay with it. It’s a lot of work. Good Luck.

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Sloop Smitten
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1181 Posts

Response Posted - 07/09/2009 : 11:56:25

Your circumstances will probably dictate what you are able to do. If you have a trailer, and a place to park it while you work, you can pick one of the more time consuming, and longer lasting options. Since you have a fin keel you probably will have it sitting in a boat yard somewhere and be paying a daily fee while you work on it. That can add up quickly. Also a lot of boat yards require you to capture the dust you create when sanding. Hopefully you will have electricity and not be left to hand sanding. A few friends to share the elbow grease with would help immensely.

On a side note, if you like to anchor overnight a dark hull will limit your visibility to others. Make sure you have a bright anchor light and probably a second light at deck level to increase your visibility.

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skrenz
Captain

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USA
351 Posts

Response Posted - 07/10/2009 : 13:00:38

For what its worth, I just did exactly what you are going to do. Be glad to discuss with you.

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Bortiquai
1st Mate

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88 Posts

Response Posted - 07/10/2009 : 13:49:16

I just had my bottom done this week. I ended up having it done for me because I got a good price, and they did an excellent, professional job. They completely removed the old paint with remover, and sanded it right down so the bottom was actually gleaming white. Then they went through and repaired about 20-30 blisters, ranging in size from a dime to a small kiwi. They did a hard barrier coat and then the blue anti-fouling.

I went back and forth doing it myself, or having it done for me. Regardless, I would have hired someone to do the removing/sanding because I'm just don't like that toxic stuff. Not to mention how arduous a task it really is.

As for the cost, all total I spent about $1600. If you consider I would have had to have it trailored to a yard to work on, and I could only work on it on weekends (full time jobs are a bummer), I probably really only spent an extra couple hundred bucks. I know without having all the right tools and time, I could not have done as thorough a job either. The bottom looks amazing.

Like most people on this forum, I like to do projects myself. But all said and done, I'm glad I swallowed my pride on this one. It's back in the water inside of a week, no lung damage, and if I maintain it, it will last a couple years.

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Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5418 Posts

Response Posted - 07/10/2009 : 20:35:17

While the process is hard work and can be tedious and frustrating, it is really worthwhile once you're done.

One thing to consider, however, over the winter. Temperature really affects the drying rates and flow rates of the two part materials. They say that 60-75 degrees are perfect, hotter makes the paint more runny (90 degrees makes it impossible) and under 50, don't even bother.

If you can get the boat inside a temperature-controlled building, put it on stands, you will have a much better time.

Sanding, especially for long periods of time, can be theraputic, downright zen-like.

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