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Battery wires

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michaelj
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132 Posts

Initially Posted - 07/17/2009 : 12:45:35

I just replaced my batteries and in rewiring the selector switch I managed to perform the mythically stupid act of cross wiring one of them. When I turned the switch on things got real exciting (sparks, clouds of gas, melting insulation, etc.) Fortunately the batteries are OK, but the selector switch wiring is fried. The wiring that was on there is Ancor 8 gauge marine. I went to an auto store today and they said that 4 gauge battery cables would actually be better. Since the Ancor wires are about 10 times more expensive the the auto store, I'm inclined to use the auto store. Any thoughts on this? Thanks.

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islander
Master Marine Consultant

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4024 Posts

Response Posted - 07/17/2009 : 14:18:16

Well I'm getting some popcorn for this one, Marine grade wire is tinned so as not to corrode in the marine environment. Automotive wire is not tinned and will corrode hence the added cost for the marine wire. Battery connections are very important in that they are the first link in your electrical chain. You could use the automotive wire and be fine for a year or two but then start to develop problems.(low voltage, dim lights ,poor charging etc.) Choice is yours. Also consider your re-sale if the guy buying your boat has a survey and walks away over faulty wiring. My opinion is to use the marine wire, It's a one shot deal so might as well do it right. As to the 4 or 8 guage, I would tend to go with what came with the boat. Our boats don't have a complicated or huge electical demand and the 8 guage has worked well for many years.

Edited by - islander on 07/17/2009 14:34:53

Prospector
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Canada
3159 Posts

Response Posted - 07/17/2009 : 14:58:17

You know Scott, we really need to give poor Michael a break. His first question was the most debated item on the forum (how to attach sheets to the foresail) and not the automotive vs. marine for interior electrical debate will rise up. Next he'll be asking about tow vehicles...

Michael I really understand your desire to protect identity and whatnot, but we need to know whether you are on salt water or fresh as it is a factor in corrosion. Also how heavy is the load on your wiring - are you running an electric start on the OB? Do you have a margarita maker on board that runs 24/7? Little wires take smaller loads. Big wires take bigger loads. There is a calculation for this.

I just completed a rewire from my battery to panel with all stops in between and added in a few extras including a solar charge controller, control switch for the shore power charger, and a wiring for the 12V outlet in the coaming box. I don't remember what gauge I used, but its all marine grade. I sail freshwater.

I used multi-strand 8 GA marine wire. I was able to re-use some fo the stuff that I tore out to cut costs a little. I also made sure to put fuses on everythign to prevent myself from doing anything dumb in the future. I am not a DIY pro and I spent much time scratching my head, consulting folks on here for advice, and redoing things, but in the end it all worked. If you search electrical and my name you may find a post or 7 that will help you out.

The MOST valuable advice I got was:
- Buy a really good crimping tool
- Buy a good reference manual
- Learn to solder
- Assume nothing
- Use high quality parts.

In the end I mostly used Ancor parts from the chandlery, but close to when I was done, I discovered that Lowes sells Ancor connectors for exterior applications with 12V lighting and whatnot. I can't tell the difference, and since I'm on freshwater, I don't anticipate the same environment you have to if you're on saltwater.

Since I did all this work I have avoided the auto parts for any other applications. The folks at my local chandlery (the Rigging Shoppe) have told me that while there IS a difference in marine grade wire for most applications, I don't need to worry about it for speaker wire. I find that interesting.

Edited by - on

michaelj
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132 Posts

Response Posted - 07/18/2009 : 06:40:05

Thanks to both of you for the advice. I'm really not trying to keep anything secret; I sail out of Oriental on the Neuse River in NC. We're fairly close to the Pamlico Sound so the water is probably more salt than fresh. The biggest load on the wiring is the electric start on the outboard; otherwise I only use what the boat came with.

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aeckhart
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1709 Posts

Response Posted - 07/20/2009 : 10:52:07

Hmmmmmmmmmm, I've sailed Gallivant on fresh water for 20 years, the last 19 of which were with a second (marine) battery, (marine)switch, and (automotive)wiring. I have not had any trouble with corrosion in my system. Lets face it, cars operate in damp enviroments too. Other than an altnernator failure, discharged battery because of extreme cold, or loose/corroded cable clamps, have you ever had an automotive system go bad because of corroded wiring?

Edited by - aeckhart on 07/20/2009 10:53:43

Merrick
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USA
192 Posts

Response Posted - 07/20/2009 : 14:00:31

I needed to extend battery cables and used automotive. I plan to keep an eye on them and spray periodically with Corrosion x. It was $8.00 versus $48.00 each.

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michaelj
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132 Posts

Response Posted - 07/20/2009 : 14:27:08

Again, thanks for the replies. I wound up buying 8 gauge marine wire from West Marine which was $2.99 a foot w/o the lugs. I only needed about 48" total so this seemed like a good price. On the burned up wires it looks like the lugs were soldered on instead of being crimped--is this a good idea?

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islander
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USA
4024 Posts

Response Posted - 07/20/2009 : 16:16:43

Michael, I should have asked if this was a fresh or salt water boat. I'm in salt so I tend to think in salt terms. A bare copper wire wouldn't last very long around here but I'm guessing its doable in fresh water. I think those on this forum who sail in fresh water would be shocked at what salt water can do. Heck, A boat only lasts about 5yrs before the hull is eaten away!

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Happy D
Admiral

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921 Posts

Response Posted - 07/21/2009 : 05:01:46

Funny thing, my 1977 was wired from the factory without tinned wire. They didn't use marine grade plywood for the interior bulkheads either. We must have learned a lot in the last 40 years.

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Scooter
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USA
228 Posts

Response Posted - 07/21/2009 : 05:51:02

Michael, Just a note that we're pretty close. I sail out of Vandemere (marker 5 up Bay river) and was curious where you keep your boat? Maybe we can hook up some time. Oriental's about a 5-6 hour sail for us.

We don't get down every week since we live in Apex but you never know.

Scott and Sandra

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EAbrams
Navigator

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USA
130 Posts

Response Posted - 07/22/2009 : 05:12:13

Hello Michael

I’m in Oriental also, though I’m not in town. I’m a short drive north on Straight Road. If you are new to the area (as I am) I have a friend here that can offer local knowledge. He owns a boat brokerage in town.

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michaelj
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132 Posts

Response Posted - 07/22/2009 : 13:58:51

Scooter:

I'm moored at Oriental Harbor. I would love to get together sometime. Email is mconwell@triad.rr.com.

Ed:

Thanks for the offer. Would your friend by chance be Henry Frazer?

Edited by - on

EAbrams
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USA
130 Posts

Response Posted - 07/25/2009 : 11:13:37

No Michael,

My friend owns Cape Lookout Yachts, Broad and North Streets. He has many listings moored at the Oriental Harbor, you can't miss his bright yellow logo.

If you know H. Frazer I'm sure he can help you.

Edited by - on

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The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.