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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I'm planing to order a Bimini from GMI in Princeville Quebec. The price is $644.00 U.S. The measurements are as follows 85-90 inches wide X 40-46 High X 5ft. long. I was going to mount it on the toe rail track which is one inch wide and use the stern pulpit to mount the support poles to. Is there anyone who has experience with this organization or has any comments to make about this project?
I got mine from them about six years ago--nice folks and a nicely made bimini. I got the stainless frame, with two telescoping struts that I attached near the bases of the stern-rail using special clamps. My only disappointment was that I assembled the frame using the supplied self-tapping screws (they also provided pop-rivets), and found that to be very arduous. I twisted the heads off a couple... (Stainless tapping into stainless is problematic.) If you get stainless and you have the rivet tool, that should be easier. If you don't have the tool, you might want to borrow one.
I just looked up that size at http://www.go2marine.com/index.jsp where I got mine. Westland brand, All stainless frame, sunbrella fabric, boot etc. for $480.00. $644.00 sounds like an alfull lot for an off the shelf top.
Scott, that is a great price. It includes cover and free shipping. You just have to do cutout for backstay unless Go2 will do that. Did you mount on coaming or outside? Love to see some pics.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Dave Bristle</i> <br />I got mine from them about six years ago--nice folks and a nicely made bimini. I got the stainless frame, with two telescoping struts that I attached near the bases of the stern-rail using special clamps. My only disappointment was that I assembled the frame using the supplied self-tapping screws (they also provided pop-rivets), and found that to be very arduous. I twisted the heads off a couple... (Stainless tapping into stainless is problematic.) If you get stainless and you have the rivet tool, that should be easier. If you don't have the tool, you might want to borrow one. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Dave, I wasn't aware you had to assemble the frames. However, stainless steel pop rivets is the way to go and I already have a pop-rivet tool. If you were going to use screws the best way to do the job in stainless is to tap the holes. Although with only a .030 wall that wouldn't work out very well either. Ben Brooks
Steve, I mounted it on top of the coaming on sliding tracks. To me it fits/looks better and I can walk around the outside. It covers the companion way so you dont have to close everything up in a shower and also gives enough shade to the helmsman if you sit about half way up. I doubt Go2 would do any fabric work. but I would say you could have a hole cut for the backstay by someone local for a small fee if you want it back that far. Mounted in front of the stay allows you to see your sails and wind vang and stand up staight once in a while! You also have to clear the main sheet. You would get a much smaller size Bimini and smaller $$$ too if you put it on the coaming.
Ben, If you position it right It won't interfere with your lines. My main sheet clears by about 2" and by placing it on top of the coamings it will not interfere with the jib sheets. The biggest problem is getting it low enough to clear the boom. I did have to cut the legs an inch or two so the boom would be level and the sail not baggy. Others on the forum have mounted the Bimini outside the coamings with great success but I wanted to be able to walk around it and to be able to slide it backward by disconnecting the main sheet at the traveler end and sliding it back to the back stay when at anchor. This just gave me more options.
Unless there's a specific reason for it, I wouldn't obstruct the weather deck access to the bow of the boat. I don't have a bimini so perhaps it's easier to get to the bow with the wider frame. For me though, the weather decks are a necessary feature, power or sail, for safe movement forward.
Scott, that is a very nice install. The sliding tracks make it that much more useful. As I have a C250 with Cat Bird seats, I keep going back and forth with a Bimini. I would like to cover the entire cockpit and rear seats. With the position of the mainsheet and traveler and double back stays, I run into a predicament. I have had 2 companies come out but none see any way to accomplish what I want. I keep going back to drawing board. Steve A
Ben, I don't understand . They are flat against the top of the coaming, in-line fore and aft. I put a thin nylon washer underneath the track where the two hold down screws are just to raise the track up off the coaming a little ( the thickness of a dime)just for water to pass under. The hinges are standard SS deck hinges mounted on the sliders. The two screws in front of and behind the hinge are stops to lock the hinge any place along the track.
The question of angles relates to the angle of the bimini support poles n relation to the coaming or deck and the brackets on the tracks. I think he is asking if the brackets have any angle to them so that the pole ends fit straight into the brackets and rotate freely on the pins. On some boats it is necessary to mount the brackets on plastic pads that are angled to tilt the brackets enough that the pole ends fit into the brackets smoothly.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.