Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Can anyone post a photo of the fiddle block (rigged) for the main sheet?
There seems to be something amis with the way mine functions (and there is a portion of the block that looks like it should have something tied to it...but it does not)
It also seems like the line gets too slack and gets caught up on the tiller when coming about on broad reaches. Mine is connect the "traditonal" way...traveler at the aft.
Here's a useful diagram from the C-25 Owner's Manual:
The mainsheet is always slack when you jibe. It's one of the most exciting aspects to sailing - getting stuff knocked off your head or off the boat by the flapping sheet or by the boom itself as they swing across.
Whenever I can, during a jibe, I grab the middle of the 3 lines of the mainsheet and guide them slowly across the cockpit and usually over the aft edge of the bimini. This keeps the boom from banging on the new leeward side. Our boats are small enough to do that safely.
" Our boats are small enough to do that safely." I did that a few years back in about 15knots. The mainsheet took my arm and forxibly externally rotated it, breaking my humerus. Definitely a not-to-be-repeated painful experience. So, if you want to do this safely, swing the mainsheet over with the arm that's to leeward!
Better yet, control your gybe by sheeting in at least half way as you start to turn and control the boom going out on the other side, especially in heavier air. To decrease the amount of line you have to sheet in, attach a short line, say 5/16" diameter, from the end of your boom to the upper block, just long enough so that the upper block and the fiddle block are almost touching with the boom amidships, or close-hauled. Should be about 2-2.5 ft. That much line times 3, or 4 if you have a 4:1 main sheet set-up, is the amount of line you will have eliminated from having to sheet in when you tack from a reach or run. It works! The knot above the fiddle block in this pic was temporary, just for the picture and determining distance, I now have a bowline at both ends:
Also, your fiddle block, attached to the traveler car, may have a becket on top similar to the becket hanging down from the upper block. If so, your mainsheet could start at either block. For a 3:1 purchase, the mainsheet starts at the becket on the upper block, a single block with becket like in the drawing above. For a 4:1 purchase, the mainsheet would start at the becket on the fiddle block, but you would also need a double or fiddle block at the boom.
I was imagining a light breeze (1-3 knots) when I made my comment above. In that calm situation you can throw the main across and catch it at the end of its travel.
But in 15 knots of wind a jibe is a dangerous action, unless you sheet in the main momentarily to take up the slack. Then the pressure on the mainsail as you come about and the new heeling angle guides you in releasing the mainsheet for the correct trim on the new course.
After I bought my boat and was single-handing for the first few times I was hesitant to jibe in strong winds, until I learned the safe method of:<ul><li>sheeting in</li> <li>turning the bow downwind</li> <li>releasing the sheet again</li></ul>This gives you much more control and is much safer.
Edit: I bet I read about this and learned what I needed from the sailors on the Association Forum! Where else?
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.