Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I recently sailed in the Apostle Islands and slept on the boat in coves, bays, etc. One night I was about ready to jump ship when waves were hitting us from the side and the dagger board was pounding like a drum! My shipmate and I got up in the middle of the night and rigged a line under the "raised" dagger board, tied the line on the starboard forward stanchion and on the port side I wrapped the line around the winch and snugged it up. The line is angled under the dagger board which created better tension. Oh, and we had to tie a short length of chain to the center of the line to be able to make the line sink and go under the hull and dagger board. Works like a charm and only takes a few minutes to rig. I now keep a dedicated line with chain attached for quick settup. Roger
Wily, When you installed your centerboard shim kit, did you have to jack up the boat off the trailer at all? I hope not because that would be a pain. My centeraboard, of course, is resting on the trailer board, the way it is supposed to, in my shop. Thanks - Roger
When I shimmed mine, just used some scrap starboard sawn to the proper thickness with a tablesaw. I took that thin strip of plastic and made two large washers with a center size of 1" dia and the outer diameter the largest size holesaw I had.... maybe 2 1/2". reinstalled with one washer on each side, no clunk, and it was free. I would imagine you could use a plastic cutting board or something and it would work just as well. I had the boat jacked up when I did it because I was doing other work and just shimmed it cause I was in there.
I think the centerboard needs to have only 1 1/2" to maybe 2" of clearance to get the brass block and pin out. This might be attainable by removing the wood bunk that the centerboard rests on. Worth a try.
If that didn't work a series of temporary 2 foot long pieces of 2x6 strapped or duct taped to the bunks while the boat was in the water plus removing the bottom one once the boat was out of the water would definitely give you plenty of clearance. You could do it right near the ramp on a weekday if you already had the shim kit or made your own and drop her back in leaving your mast up.
Mark the blocks with a permanent marker port and starboard before you begin and remember to install them with some locktite on the bolts in the same orientation they came from. The holes are not symmetrical, so the bushing that came from the port side needs to go back on the port and the flat side goes towards the water, the hump fits in the recess in the hull.
Roger, I put a bottle jack on the trailer, put a piece of solid HARD wood(not pine) between the jack and the hull at the bow and cranked her up. I think only about 10 inches. Remove the 4 bolts at the pivot and the front of the board drops nicely. Put on the shims and crank her back up. Care needs to be taken when reinserting the bolts that you do not cross thead. While you could do it yourself, its a good idea to have someone around to hold the board in position during reinsertion. You will need to sand the centerboard where the shims attach and repaint the area and the shims(if you use bottom paint) when you are done. If you do a search on centerboard shims on this site you will probably find more detailed instructions but this is essentially it! Willy
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.