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Just purchased low mileage Chevy 1/2t (350 V8, 400 turbo tranny) to tow our recently acquired C25. We live in the hilly terrain of SW Pennsylvania and plan to trailer-sail to places like Georgian Bay, Lake Champlain, Chesapeake, Bass Islands, Outer Banks, etc.. This vehicle circulates transmision fluid through the side tank of the radiator. The trailer guru on the BoatUS forum highly recommends trainsmission coolers - but does not address my configuration. Any thoughts?
I don't think you have enough truck. But, yeah, a tranny cooler might be helpful for the transmission. It won't do much for making it stop safely though. I'd be more concerned about the brakes, suspension and the weight of the truck versus the weight of the boat/trailer.
Thanks John, I used to haul my 81 C25 with a 3/4t Suburban while <i>everyone</i> else at our lake was using 1/2t pick-ups - without incident. Under Pennsylvania law I did have brakes installed on the second axle which made a tremendous difference. I ordered disc brakes for both axles on the new trailer to offset the smaller truck brakes. Can always add to leaf springs if the rear suspension feels soft.
In another life, I owned a transmission shop in SoCal. Every year we would tow in vehicles that fried their tranny trying to tow something up the grapevine - I5. Installation of a tranny cooler is pretty straightforward. It mounts in front of the radiator and is attached by pushing locking tabs/zip tie kinda thing thru the cooler and thru the radiator. Simply disconnect the radiator out line from the built in cooler and run that line into the external cooler and then run it back to the tranny.
As stated, one thing to keep in mind is that the cooler should be attached to the OUT line of the existing radiator transmission cooler. A search on the web will provide details of which is in and which is out. Or you can simply check the heat of the tubing. Another towing point is to not tow in overdrive with a marginally adequate vehicle. It will either have a 'tow/haul' swithch or instructions in your owners manual will tell you what to do with the shift lever. Higher engine speeds will use more fuel but it will also keep pressures up in the transmission to lessen slippage and it will keep fluid flowing through the coolers. The only real enemy of a modern automatic transmission is heat.
Finding that there are plenty of charts to help prospective customers select the right size cooler - but have yet to find any factor that takes into consideration terrain. My arguement is that towing in Kansas generates far less heat than towing in say, the Appalachians.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Ed Cassidy</i> The only real enemy of a modern automatic transmission is heat.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Which is what you get every time you load one up!
If you're going to use a slushbox, do it a favor and give it every goodie you can find to help it out - starting w/ a cooler. Spend the money now and work in your driveway, or spend the money later and add in towing and inconvenience.
I'm not familiar with the bowtie trucks, but there's probably some good forums out there with transmission info.
After much research I chose a Tru-Cool. To compensate for hilly terrain the factory recommended a unit that was rated for 28,000 GVW . . . after all, you can't overcool transmission fluid during boating season, i.e., above 32 degrees.
Coincidentally I stumbled across a Google ad that had a link to Ebay. There I found (with 14 minutes remaining) an AC Delco unit that was designed for GM trucks. Interestingly, it was the same size cooler that was recommened by Tru-Cool. It was new-in-box including the installation kit. Winning bid, $20.49 + shipping.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> Higher engine speeds will use more fuel<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> In overall driving, as opposed to completely flat terrain, I get better milage (still terrible) in the "tow/haul" position. Resetting the shift points, cruise control speed fall off, and gear ratio result in higher RPM but less throttle so the engine stays in a more efficient range and I get 11 - 12 mpg at about 62 mph. It also engages electronic sway control on my vehicle.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.