Association Forum - Trailer Bunks and Dremel Tool Questions

Assn Members Area · Join

Home.

Association Forum

Ships Store

Cruising

Racing

Technical Tips

Photo Gallery - New

Boat Search - Updated

Manuals & Brochures

Swap Meet

Links

Officer Flag Line & Staff

Bylaws & Constitution

Members Area

Join the Association

Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.

Association Forum

Username:	Password:
Save Password
Forgot your Password?

All Forums

Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

General Sailing Forum

Trailer Bunks and Dremel Tool Questions

New Topic

Topic Locked

Printer Friendly

Author

Topic

GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

Member Avatar

USA
4311 Posts

Initially Posted - 01/01/2010 : 21:36:11

I modified my trailer this past summer in preparation for pulling my boat this winter. The trailer had 2 X 10 bunks so I replaced with the same size. The bunks don't really make a smooth arc like I see on many of your trailers so I'm wondering if they are too stiff because they are so wide. How wide are the bunks on your trailers and/or what size would you recommend I use?

I bought a Dremel 4000 on sale at Lowe's the day after Christmas. I'm now curious what type of projects some of you have used these on. Beyond the normal things you can use these for around the boat or house do any of you have a unique application you've used yours on around the boat or house?

Association Member

GaryB
Andiamo
'89 SR/WK #5862
Kemah,TX

Edited by - on

dmpilc
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
4593 Posts

Response Posted - 01/02/2010 : 10:42:01

I use 2x8's on our C-22 trailer. Are you seeing gaps along the bunk? Are your supports adjustable? Maybe you can use a bottle jack to adjust the supports for a better curve.

Edited by - on

GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
4311 Posts

Response Posted - 01/02/2010 : 13:50:54

I had the yard pull the boat this past summer and set it on the trailer so I could adjust the bunks and it looked OK when I was done but I was in hurry to finish so they could put the boat back in the water before they closed for the day.

When I got home I noticed the slight "kink" in the bunks. I'm thinking if I went with a slightly narrower bunk it might arc a little smoother. I'm also wondering if it would hurt the boat if I put it on the trailer and brought it home with the current setup and ajusted the bunks when I had more time? It approx 38 miles to the storage yard.

Edited by - on

Dave5041
Former Mainsheet Editor

Members Avatar

USA
3758 Posts

Response Posted - 01/02/2010 : 17:54:37

Can't see a problem. Fiberglas is flexible, but sitting for a long time could cause the hull to "set" with a slightly different shape. A "set" that develops over a few months will likely fade over time with the boat in the water.

Edited by - on

zeil
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Canada
1317 Posts

Response Posted - 01/02/2010 : 18:31:01

You could use a dremel to carve bulkheads, fiddles or anything else... here are a few samples...

Shelf above the V berth

Boat's crew forward crew

Double shelves against the bulkhead for TV and misc.

Gas sniffer display installed below C250 WB electrical panel next to galleys counter with actual sniffer in the bilge below the sink

Edited by - on

OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
3475 Posts

Response Posted - 01/02/2010 : 22:07:51

I have two Dremels: An old wired one and a rechargeable. My marina charges for electric separately besides the dockage fee and since I have a solar panel, I have decided not to pay for the electric. So, the rechargeable Dremel comes in handy for certain specifc projects, such as, making an opening for a new switch panel:

Edited by - on

GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
4311 Posts

Response Posted - 01/03/2010 : 15:59:49

Mine is wired. I get tired of constantly having to charge batteries.

My power at the dock is extra also but the highest bill I've had was something like $3.00 and that was after spending the night at the boat and running the A/C most of the day and all night.

Thanks for the usage tips!

Edited by - on

sweetcraft
Admiral

Members Avatar

USA
816 Posts

Response Posted - 01/03/2010 : 22:03:17

If the bunk pads need to be curved for the hull could you use two 1 x 10s with water proof glue? Preformed before installing and finished with sealer and carpet. What was the wood used before and how was it protected? The ones I have seen are covered with black paint which allows for any grade of wood. The use of extra padding could spread the load could get you through this winter. Picture?

Edited by - on

OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
3475 Posts

Response Posted - 01/04/2010 : 04:34:43

Gary,

My marina charges $20/mo for those that want electric for a boat my size. The cost goes up for larger boats. If I wanted electric for just one day, then they charge $3/day. 2-3 years ago, when I was replacing my wiring, I had to drill a hole thru the cabin top inside the hole for the mast connector. I had to use my power drill with a long extension bit, so I had them open the electric box (for my slip) for me that day but since I only needed the electric for about 15 minutes - They did not charge me for the day.

In regards to your original question regarding uses for the Dremel for boat and home, the Dremel is one of those tools that you really have to think about applications when it would be useful. Have the right application, it is then a great tool ! One year, I was replacing a bathroom faucet in my house and the large nut that fastens the faucet underneath the counter was oxidized/rusted solid. I could not loosen it and I had the right hand tools for the job - that special hand wrench that grips the nut at a 90 degree angle but I could not get the nut to budge. Then I thought of the Dremel. I also have the Dremel flexible shaft extension. I cannot remember if I used the extension for that job but I used either the cutoff wheel or the diamond cut wheel and cut right through the nut on two sides - easily. Then the nut was easy to pry off.

I also used the Dremel to remove rust spots every few years on the basketball pole next to my driveway. Then spot painted those areas. That was another good use for the tool. Though....do not have to do that any more. Two friends were reorienting a rental truck turning it around and decided not to do a 3 way turn off my driveway in the street but did it on my 2 car driveway. Somehow, these college grads successfully knocked into my basketball pole and bent it at a 30 degree angle. They then finished the job by bending it more. That's how I got my friends to buy me another useful tool - A Power grinder ! I now have epoxy covering the pole cutoff at ground/cement level as a monumnet to that disaster.

Many, many years ago when my son was in elementary or middle school, believe there was some reason why I was enlisted to make a chess/checkerboard out of wood. I recall using the Dremel and a router attachment or whatever that accessory is that they have that allows fine work to be scrolled into a wood surface. I carved in the squares...basically made the whole checkerboard with the Dremel except for the initial wood cuts which I used my radial arm saw.

So...there are many uses but the question you asked about what have others used a Dremel for is the one thing that I always try to remember when a project or task has to be done since the Dremel is sort of a unique tool (cuts with speed not power) but can absolutely be the best tool to use for certain applications....as long as you consider when to use it.

Edited by - OLarryR on 01/04/2010 04:42:04

GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
4311 Posts

Response Posted - 01/04/2010 : 20:31:20

Jim - The wood used before was the same dimension as what I put back on. I was looking at my trailer over the weekend and believe I figured out part of my problem. The trailer was originally setup for a Hunter 260 with a swing keel and the bottom profile must have had less arc than the C25.

I also think part of the problem is the location of the cross braces. My trailer has 5 cross braces from front to back. There either needs to be another cross brace just behind the rear tires or I need to move the #4 brace farther forward. As it is now there is a long space between the center cross brace (#3) and the next brace (#4) to the rear. The #4 brace is also way closer to the back cross brace (#5) than the #3 cross brace. If the braces were closer together I believe I could get a smoother arc.

Update #1 - The more I think about it the more I think it would be easier to use my new Dremel tool to cut the welds on the #4 cross brace and move it forward to get better spacing. I also may go to 2 X 8 bunks. They should bend easier.

Update #2 - Here's a couple of links that show what my trailer looks like (this is not my trailer). You can barely see the #3 cross brace just to the right of the outboard and just above the rear axle in the first photo. It's centered between the front and rear axle. Notice how wide the gap is between the #3 and #4 cross braces vs the #4 and #5 braces.

http://kobernus.com/hunter260/trailer/trailer3/web_trailer3_images/keywest_trailer-3.jpg

http://kobernus.com/hunter260/travel/web_travel_images/travel1.jpg

Now that I look at these pictures I really relize how flat the bottom is on the Hunter versus the C25!

Edited by - GaryB on 01/04/2010 21:36:19

GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
4311 Posts

Response Posted - 01/04/2010 : 20:33:48

Larry,

Thanks for the ideas! I think I just came up with my first use (see post above). Any suggestions on what type blade I should use to cut the welds on my trailer?

Edited by - on

OLarryR
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
3475 Posts

Response Posted - 01/04/2010 : 21:58:27

Gary,

If it is a pretty big job cutting metal/weld then it is possible that regardless of what Dremel blade you use, you may use up some blades.

The Dremel website has an "Acessory Finder" screen to help find the right blade/accessory. Here is the link:

http://www.dremel.com/en-us/AttachmentsAndAccessories/Pages/FastFinder.aspx?tool=300%20Series& application=Cutting& material=Ferrous%20Metal

It would seem that the job you have in mind is a pretty tall order for the Dremel. What will definitely work was what I used to cut down my basketball pole into short sections to stuff in the trash bin - A power grinder ! Unfortunately, if you do not have one, then it is a bit of an investment. First, you have to buy the grinder (Home Depot has a bunch of them). Then it is likely that any wheel that comes with it may be only for masonry work. Grinders generally have the grinding wheels sold in two basic styles - The inexpensive grinding wheels that cost about $3/each and you get a bunch of them depending on the job because the wheels eventually disintegrate/wear away. I believe they sell them for masonry and/or metal grinding/cutting - but you have to read the labels. The other style sold is much more expensive...about $30-$50/each - Diamond grinding wheels. They have diamond specs imbedded in them. They last...forever...well compared to the $3 wheels.

Regardless if using the Dremel or a power grinder, make sure you wear goggles.

Edited by - OLarryR on 01/04/2010 22:03:38

sweetcraft
Admiral

Members Avatar

USA
816 Posts

Response Posted - 01/04/2010 : 22:04:38

Gary, I got the pictures and you are right, more curve or design. I have a roller trailer that came with my 25 and it has had problems too. Your project is to adjust what you have. You can use a steel cutting blade in a 4 1/2 inch grinder and it can make very clean cuts. Cutting welds is tough because weld metal is going to be harder than the base metal, the grinder doesn't care as it cuts through. It might take several bi-metal blades to do the same cut. Safety glasses and the sparks can start a fire.
The Dremel tools work great. The carvings of Henk are classic. I use mine all the time.

Edited by - on

frog0911
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
1349 Posts

Response Posted - 01/05/2010 : 09:46:49

Try Harbor Freight for a grinder and wheels, less than half the cost of Homey Depot or you can rent one from a tool store for about 10-15 dollars a day plus wheels.

Edited by - on

mlg3733
Navigator

Members Avatar

118 Posts

Response Posted - 01/05/2010 : 14:38:01

You can get a metal cutting blade and use it on a circular saw for a few dollars from your local hardware store and save the expense of a grinder.

Edited by - on

britinusa
Web Editor

Members Avatar

USA
5404 Posts

Response Posted - 01/05/2010 : 19:35:43

Back to the trailer bunks.

10" does sound too wide. I'm sure folks that mostly read the C25 forum will chirp in with more details.

Paul

Edited by - on

GaryB
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
4311 Posts

Response Posted - 01/05/2010 : 20:56:13

Thanks for the info guys! After looking at my trailer a little closer I believe you are correct about using the Dremel on cutting the welds. The welds are sold from top to bottom.

Good news is I work for a tool rental company and we have 500 or 600 4-1/2" R/A grinders I can use for free and I can get all the blades I need for cost + 5%. We've also got all the goggles, face shields, gloves, etc.

I think I'm going to move down to 2 X 8's or maybe even 2 x 6's for the bunks.

Thanks again for all the input!

Edited by - on

Unsinkable2
Captain

Members Avatar

USA
273 Posts

Response Posted - 01/07/2010 : 11:09:12

My current trailer has rollers (awesome - highly recommended). But I had a trailer a few years ago with bunks that were made from synthetic decking boards (probably 1 1/2 thick). They had just enough flex in them that they really cradled the boat well. They never rotted in the water, and never dry rotted in the sun. I just stapled new outdoor carpet over them every couple of years.

As for the Dremel, I believe it's primary purpose is Pinewood Derby domination :)

Edited by - on

Topic

New Topic

Topic Locked

Printer Friendly

Jump To:

Association Forum

Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.