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britinusa
Web Editor

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USA
5404 Posts

Initially Posted - 01/10/2010 : 11:06:31

We keep JD at the side of the house on the trailer, normally wrapped with an over mast tarp (mast in the raised aft crutch position).

The boat is vented at least once a week, often more frequently.

The decommission task after every trip is to drain the water tanks, dry out the bildge (just in case) and wipe down the cabin surfaces with Chlorox wipes (no chlorine).

But if we leave the boat cloased for more than a week, we get mold on the wood of the head door.

Prior to each trip, we clean up inside, again wiping down all the surfaces with the chlorox wipes.

I'm wondering if this is normal, or if there is an alternative process.

We have solar power on board, so we could install a powered vent (the tarp would prevent a regular solarvent operating)

ideas?

Paul

Joint Decision. (Sold)
PO C250WB 2005 Sail # 841.

Moved up to C34 Eximius

Updated August 2015

Edited by - on

John Russell
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3444 Posts

Response Posted - 01/10/2010 : 11:12:41

I assume you cover the boat for UV protection. The cover certainly doesn't need to be air tight. Since it's covered and in your yard, why not just slide the hatch forward a few inches. You could use a cable tyoe lock (i.e. bike lock) to prevent it from opening too far if your concerned about unauthorized entry. Pop the front hatch. Air circulation can only help.

I'd also try a dilute chlorine bleach solution for the doors. Not sufficient to bleach or damage the finish, just enough to kill the mold spores.

Edited by - on

delliottg
Former Mainsheet C250 Tech Editor

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USA
4479 Posts

Response Posted - 01/10/2010 : 11:43:35

We keep a desiccant in the sink which seems to help, as well as a boat heater to keep humidity at a minimum. The desiccant is readily available at any hardware store (HD, Lowes, Ace, etc.), I think the one we use is Dry Ze Air or something like that, but there are several. It's surprising the amount of water it pulls out of the air. Once the collector cup is full, simply dump the whole thing down the toilet, add new crystals and repeat.

The only place we regularly get mold spotting is on the front hatch. A bit of Scrubbrite takes care of that.

Since you're in a very humid environment, you may have to change the desiccant more frequently than we do, but the crystals are dirt cheap. The heaters go for around $60 at WM (they were $35 just a couple of years ago), but we pretty much run ours year round, even in the summer simply to keep the humidity level in the boat down.

I've considered a vent like one of the solar powered ones, but it's not on my list for this winter, maybe next year.

Edited by - on

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5902 Posts

Response Posted - 01/10/2010 : 12:05:43

Arrange the cover so that any breeze can get to the hatchboard louvers. Leave the forward hatch ajar enough to allow a draft from the hatchboards to the forward hatch (or vice versa). Don't leave the accordian door either fully opened or closedd. Leave it halfway, so the draft isn't impeded, and air can get to the parts of the door.

I used to put some charcoal briquettes around the inside of my C25, on 4-5 pie tins, and thought they helped, but can't say for sure. I thought they absorbed moisture when it was wet, and the absorbed moisture evaporated from the briquettes when the air became dry, leaving them able to absorb moisture again when it became wet again. I got the idea from a news story about a crazy woman who's mother died at home, so she packed her corpse in charcoal and mummified her. Crazy or not, she struck me as an inventive genius!

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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 01/10/2010 : 12:51:31

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Steve Milby
 ...Don't leave the accordian door either fully opened or closedd...
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Wrong boat.

I'm a fan (pun unintended) of Nicro solar vents. They address the issue of moisture condensing on interior surfaces as the boat cools at night. As the vent exhausts the moist daytime air, it draws in drier air that has left its moisture as dew on your deck and elsewhere. Mine works well--including keeping the cabin dry on cool nights with people sleeping inside--I used to awake to dew on every surface. 1000 CF/hour will change your air about twice per hour all night. However, I guess it won't work for long under a tarp (although mine seems to run under white shrink-wrap).

Edited by - on

John Russell
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3444 Posts

Response Posted - 01/10/2010 : 12:55:30

Do you leave the door to the head open? Maybe just open the port in the head as well as the door. I think the key to success is air movement.

Edited by - John Russell on 01/10/2010 12:55:59

britinusa
Web Editor

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USA
5404 Posts

Response Posted - 01/10/2010 : 15:04:43

Louvers???

John, good idea about the head port, it's under the tarp, but at least it would be open venting.

Of course, the best option is to get the boat out under sail!

Paul

Edited by - on

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5902 Posts

Response Posted - 01/10/2010 : 16:56:54

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by britinusa
 Louvers???

Paul

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Sorry - a senior moment, which, I regret, seem to be increasing in frequency.

If your 250s don't have louvers in the hatchboards, like the 25s, maybe that's part of the problem. The boat needs to be able to breathe to prevent condensation. I remember seeing aftermarket plastic louvers withscreens that can be installed in hatchboards to increase ventilation.

Edited by - on

Voyager
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
5379 Posts

Response Posted - 01/10/2010 : 20:17:05

Chlorine bleach is useful for fighting mold spores. White vinegar is also very good for getting rid of many types of mold, but without the bleachy smell.

Edited by - on

glivs
Admiral

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USA
836 Posts

Response Posted - 01/11/2010 : 17:22:27

Lemon oil applied after killing the mold spores will deter further growth very effectively. Darkness is also required for mold to thrive. When your current tarp is no longer useable, you might want to consider replacing it with a white tarp. I have not looked lately, but not long ago, heavy white tarps could be found on the Internet quite easily.

Edited by - on

DaveR
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
2015 Posts

Response Posted - 01/12/2010 : 06:33:57

Lemon oil huh? Makes sense (acidic)! And a white tarp surely couldn't hurt. Good info Gerry, thanks.

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 01/12/2010 : 09:30:21

Sunlight doesn't seem to slow mildew on my boat--it's favorite place to grow is out on the deck right around my solar vent, which is in full sunlight most of the day. But that's easier to clean than the interior.

Edited by - on

Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts

Response Posted - 01/12/2010 : 13:35:20

We tarp our boat during the off-season but make sure that the tarp is bungeed to the trailer at the farthest out points so that the tarp is not against the hull. This allows air to circulate and get in the head port which we leave open. We also leave the head door open and the transom is pretty open - the tarp is not closed at that end. Mold has not been a problem but we don't have the humid warm weather that you have in Florida. How about sliding the main hatch open a bit and laying some netting over it to keep bugs out?

Edited by - on

Captain Bill
Navigator

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USA
148 Posts

Response Posted - 01/15/2010 : 18:43:21

Paul,

During the winter we keep a 40 watt light bulb on 24/7. In addition we have a Nicro solar powered vent, 3" I think and we also have some moisture absorbing material which I empty several times during the winter. What we don't have is mold, mildew and that musty smell so common in many boats.

It's also nice to be in an area with relatively mild winters.

Bill

Edited by - on

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