Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
About 18 months ago there was a loooong thread about converting the split backstay to a single backstay in order to make movement in the cockpit easier. I think quite a few of us did the mod using hardware from riggingonly.com. It is a great mod and we really like the new setup. The only problem is that the backstay turnbuckle is still about six feet in the air making it hard to deal with. Here is how it looked:
So, I went ahead and sent the backstay to riggingonly.com and had them make a new one with the turnbuckle at the bottom as you would typically have. Here is a photo of the new backstay:
Note that I have gone to an open turnbuckle. The folks at riggingonly.com recommended going with the open body as it allows you to see if any problems develop. Price for the new backstay was $83 including shipping. The folks at riggingonly.com were very helpful and the whole thing took less than two weeks including shipping both ways.
So, 18 months later the mod is done. Next to moving the winches to the coamings, this is one of the best mods we have done.
Randy, are you awakening the monster again? Glad to see you have attached the turnbuckle at the stern. It is so much easier to adjust and eliminates the falling hazard of self and tools.
Hey Dave - you started it! And you are right, the new location of the turnbuckle is much more practical and safe. Thanks for giving us all the great idea!
I think those measurements will work. I'm going to order one on Tuesday. I'm guessing the company is not so large as to forget a recent job so, I'll give them a call after the holiday. Thanks.
John, I think you may have to measure your unique distance. Every application would be "custom" due to slight variations in placement of padeyes. Would hate to see you spend the money and be a quarter inch short at the turnbuckle.
John, I had the advantage of having done the mod described in the original thread. That approach (modifying the current split backstay) allowed me to use a Sta-Lok eye, some wire, and make a custom length of stay below the turnbuckle. Once that was done and proven it was easy to just send riggingonly the whole assembly and have them make one the same length with the turnbuckle at the bottom. Without that interim step you probably have to measure. They billed 34' of wire but likely they used between 33' and 34'.
Also, it matters where your end point is. Mine is at the transom by the swim ladder.
I suggest you look over all 8 pages of the old thread to see how people did this mod. If you decide to go right to a new backstay without the interim mod then I think you should install the padeye where you want it and then measure.
A final alternative would be to order the parts you need and use a Sta-Lok eye to make the adjustment yourself.
What you guys said makes sense. I guess I'll go with the Sta-Lok. The real issue for me is that the turnbuckle is so high over my 5'4" head that I have to stand on the lockers (one foot port one starboard) to reach it.
John, you could call the guys at riggingonly and tell them that you want the setup I did (Invoice 125097) but with the Sta-Lock eye so that you can make the proper length. They are good to work with.
When I put my original mod together I used the main halyard to act as a temporary backstay while I put together the Sta-Lock, cut the wire, etc.
The Stay-Lock is easy to use but don't do what I did and peal away all 19 wires to get to the "core." Just peal back about nine of them and the rest is the core. It will be apparent when you do it. The hardest part of the job for me was reweaving all of those wires.
Our C250WB came with the single backstay connected at the lower end just as the pic above shows.
If I were to be considering changing the backstay setup, I would go for the split backstay! But I would mount the lower ends on outer rim of the catbird seats.
I did a sighting from the point on the catbird seat SS tubing to the top of the mast, and I'm pretty sure that it would clear the bimini.
The advantage of this setup would be a) No dang stay by the walkthrough (we have a wheel and it really is a pain to shimmy around the backstay) b) Double backstays - redundancy c) Possibly easy setup of a backstay adjuster, just a pair of blocks, one on each stay, joined by a wire line, and a line down to the catbird seat. d) Each of the lower ends could be a pelican hook with a tube to slide down over the bail to reduce risk of release. That would make prep/deprep a lot quicker.
Hey Paul, the '95-'96 models without the catbird seats had the split backstay you describe and there is not too much problem getting around the wheel so I'd agree with your thinking about moving them as long as they didn't bother those sitting in the seats.
As to a tensioner, I run one but only because I've a unique setup where I run a loose rig, which is made possible by the use of a running baby stay. It is not something most sailors would rig and therefore I think for the most part a tensioner on the 250 doesn't serve much if any purpose as the 250 is designed to run a fairly hard rig setup for all conditions. And, while that is a bit unfortunate, it is the reality.
As to hookup, I use quick pins to secure the backstay so it is a quick hook up. I do not use a quick pin at the forestay while I understand that some have... one there is a bridge too far for me.
btw, at a boat show yesterday I went aboard a Benateau 31. It was harder to get around the wheel than on the 250 but not because of a backstay... the wheel was simply too large for the footwell and all but required one to step onto a cockpit seat to make the move forward. And, at a boat show that might seem ok but when cockpit cushions are at play, I'm not sure the requirement to step on the cushion to go forward is ideal. It certainly wouldn't be ideal on the 250 with those popping lids I try not to walk on.
Our crew loves the catbird seats and I wouldn't want to do anything that might detract from those seats. In the original thread you can see that some people took the single backstay to or through the catbird seats. I did not want to do that and have not found the location at the transom cutout to be a problem for us. I'm not certain that redundancy is a big factor on a C250 with it modified B&R rig.
Paul, I'd be happy to give you our split stay hardware if you want it to fabricate your own split backstay.
Randy: I have noticed both WB and WK boat owners have decided to go with a single backstay. I am sure you all have considered this but I didn’t see any discussion about it; is there any concern with the loading on the mast or shrouds given the backstay being off center?
Craig, Catalina has gone to the single backstay with its most recent C250s. They take the backstay to the same place as mine. It has no impact on the shrouds.
Finding this post was a miracle! I have struggled with getting to and from the wheel. I'm going to place the order for this equipment. (the full backstay replacement with the sta-lock) John, how did yours go? Was the 34' long enough to reach after you put on the sta-lock? I have this fear of being a couple inches too short! Thanks for the info Randy!
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.