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 Catalina 250 Specific Forum
 New Bottom Paint		  New Topic  Topic Locked
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frejoh
Navigator

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USA
116 Posts
Initially Posted - 02/22/2010 :  06:42:19  Show Profile
Hey, Folks,
Winter is hopefully coming to an end, so sailing is on the horizon. Pau Hana is to be hauled out for the first time in 7.5 years for some minor repairs to damage caused by a breakaway pontoon boat.(Don't get me started...)With insurance covering the haul-out, I thought it a good time to do other maintenance. I have a couple of questions: what is the best kind of bottom paint for a freshwater lake environment? Brand recommendations? Second: what is a reasonable cost for the job? Yard guy is quoting $625 for work, plus $275 for the paint he recommends. Whew!

Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Fred Johnson
250 WK #669
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Nautiduck
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3704 Posts
Response Posted - 02/22/2010 :  08:12:03  Show Profile
We use VC17M. It is a "hard" anti-foulant and is very well suited for fresh water. Your choices may be limited by what is already on the boat - if there is any paint left. Ask around your local area and see what others use.

On the other hand, if the bottom looks OK after 7 years in the water then you could consider just cleaning off the bottom and skip the paint.
Edited by - Nautiduck on 02/22/2010 08:13:28
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superbob
Navigator

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USA
200 Posts
Response Posted - 02/22/2010 :  15:54:24  Show Profile  Visit superbob's Homepage
My 250/wing keel/#421 is berthed year 'round in fresh water. In April it was hauled, the bottom and rudder painted with Interlux Micron CSC. It's performance in the first year has been thus far remarkable. There's been no buildup and as advertised, self polishing, too. It's expensive but so far worth the money.
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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts
Response Posted - 02/22/2010 :  20:43:31  Show Profile
Hi Fred... You didn't say whether the bottom is painted now. If so, do you know if it's an ablative or hard paint? (If you rub the paint with a piece of cloth and some color comes off, it's ablative.) Some ablatives (like Micron) can be put on top of some hard paints, although I've been disappointed in some of those supposed compatibilities--the hard paint started falling off. Hard (like VC-17) should never go on top of ablative.

In a freshwater lake, the most useful component for you might be the anti-slime additives in some paints--<i>Biolux</i> in Interlux paints, and <i>Irgarol</i> (sp?) in Pettit paints. They help prevent most kinds of plant growth. At $275, your yard guy must be marking up the most expensive paint around--Micron Extra with Biolux--good stuff, but not quite <i>that</i> expensive.
Edited by - Dave Bristle on 02/23/2010 08:20:19
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frejoh
Navigator

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USA
116 Posts
Response Posted - 03/14/2010 :  18:38:35  Show Profile
Bottom was painted with ablative paint, and I understand this was removed by some sanding before Pettit Trinidad SR was applied- 2 coats. Contractor also waxed and buffed hull below the rub rail, so the hull looks great- good as new, and she's 7.5 years old! Boat is back in her slip for a week now, looking forward to spring. Cost of paint was about $10 over WM price.
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willy
Captain

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USA
422 Posts
Response Posted - 03/17/2010 :  16:02:55  Show Profile
For what its worth, I use the Micron CSC in a salt water environment and have been getting 3 seasons of great performance out of it. On my old boat I used West Marines Bottomcoat and got 1 season so it was worth the extra cash for materials!
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Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.