Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
After several years of putting it off for other, more pressing issues, I've renewed the Poliglow on <i>Passage's</i> hull. At the same time, I replaced the lettering (although several of my yardmates wondered whether I had the chutzpah to change her name). I explained to all that I love the name <i>Passage</i>, why would I change that? It has so many meanings.
So here's the old starboard side
and the rear port quarter
And the new version, starboard side
and the new rear port quarter
And finally the bow
I've got a few more days before launch to reapply the bottom paint and clean the cockpit and cabintop up.
And of course, all the post launch projects.
Bruce Ross Passage ~ SR-FK ~ C25 #5032 Port Captain — Milford, CT
Bruce, Very nice job. Do you remember the size of the hailport lettering? I'm thinking the main lettering for "Passage" is about six inches high. I want to do basically the same setup for the Emery C with the hailport across the stern under the ladder.
Dave (Mr. Stinkpotter) and John, Thanks. I do believe I got 5" lettering, as I measured the original letters and they were about 22" long, so when I put in the width, the height came out about 5". My home port letters are smaller, as I needed to make sure they fit in the space alloted. Cheers
Bruce, It really came out nice! Now I too am curious about the ski tow D rings. Come on Dave spill the beans! Tow bridle attachment or maybe some way of attaching a dink to the stern????
Passage is a pretty boat Bruce! Nice job. I elected to go with some 3M hull cleaner and wax. Bamboo's in the water so I'm doing the job from the inflatable I'm about 2/3 done and sore enough to wait a few more days before finishing up The teak is next!
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by islander</i> <br />Now I too am curious about the ski tow D rings. Come on Dave spill the beans! ...maybe some way of attaching a dink to the stern????<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Maybe if the dink was a 30' Sea Ray!
OK--poor Bruce will get this every time he posts a picture, so here goes...
The town boat club we belonged to had no finger docks or even pilings for bow lines (except in a very few slips). The setup was mostly for powerboats up to about 24', although there were/are some sailboats including 4-5 C-25s. Boats are held by "Frog Hooks" that are like two hinged ramps from the dock to the transom. The giant U-bolts are what I attached them to--carefully positioned to allow room for the engine, etc.--thus the slight asymmetry you can see. They are fronted and backed by stainless steel plates I made. Imagine the leverage... I added spring-lines from the winches to eyebolts spaced as widely as possible on the dock, to add some lateral support. I have pictures, but they're not worth the space here. Most would call it a diabolical method of mooring a sailboat, but she lived through some major storms without so much as a spider crack around the bolts.
Backing in was like heart surgery--there was barely a foot between us and the boat on either side. That's one reason I chose the C-25 over a Cape Dory 26--ability to back up with precision. (And the CD had a smaller transom--even worse for hooking up in that club.)
All this to have the boat a mile from our house, in a slip, for something like $800/year including membership. There, I've confessed. And Passage survived. Now she just gets beat up against the dock at the open end of Bruce's marina!
Dave, That's pretty much the story I tell about the eyelet hooks - either that it was due to a weird rear-in dock arrangement or the connection for the water skiing lines with the twin 150 Hondas .
Justin, The gelcoat has seen better days - when I used the poliprep to remove the old poliglow, it cleaned the hull, but it was dull and a little oxidized. There were scrapes from the fenders and the dock rub rail. I had to clean all that up with wet sandpaper, a scrunge pad, and then I used ketchup to remove the yellow stains from the hull.
Afterward I washed the boat with soap and little clorox.
One thing I did not do was remove all the oxide from the bootstripe - next time I will.
I wore two pair of rubber gloves when I applyed the poliglow. I noticed the material soaked my shirt sleeves in spots and hardened. I did five coats on the sides of the boat from water line to above the rub rail (not including the rub rail). I think I will also prep the sides of the cabin for poliglow as well, since I have quite a bit left. Of course, I will leave the antiskid clear, but use boat wash with PTEF for that to give it a lustre.
Scott suggested I use MEK or Acetone on the rub rail, and they do a good job.
Next step is scuff the bottom paint and give it another coat. I have to give the cockpit and cabin a good vacuuming and cleaning, and I should be ready to go next week.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by islander</i> <br />...I would never guessed that nor have I ever seen that done before. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">...and you probably won't.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.