Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
On the last C25 I had applied 5 coats of System 2000E topped off with VC17.
The newer boat was already coated with ablative paint which I plan to recoat for this season.
What's the best roller to achieve the smoothest surface? I use a 1"+ nap roller for interior wall paint and I'm always surprised how flat the finish is.
I use a 5-6" foam roller, that is usually used for "cutting in" around trim. The solvent makes the foam come off the roller, so I usually use about 6-8 per gallon. The foam not only applies it smoothly, but it also applies a fairly thin coat, which is plenty for one season.
Use 3/8 9 inch roller, but most important make sure the tube is made of plastic not cardboard. The bottom paint will dissolve the cardboard and you will have a mess. Don't ask how I know this to be true. In other words don't use a cheap roller.
Probably too late... I find I get a smoother, more polished surface by thinning the ablative paint a little (using the prescribed thinner). I also highly recommend a dual-biocide paint to prevent slime. Both Pettit's and Interlux's have worked very nicely for me--well worth the higher price.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Stinkpotter</i> <br />Probably too late... I find I get a smoother, more polished surface by thinning the ablative paint a little (using the prescribed thinner). I also highly recommend a dual-biocide paint to prevent slime. Both Pettit's and Interlux's have worked very nicely for me--well worth the higher price. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"> Thanks Dave, still working above the waterline - will look into using thinner and dual-biocide.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Tradewind</i> <br />I put one coat on the bottom this morning, took all of 1 gallon, thought I'd have some paint left but used it all. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">I use about 3/4 of a gallon for one coat on my C&C 35, including the hull, keel and rudder, and it lasts the summer. If you apply more paint than you need each year, it'll accumulate, and eventually you'll need to do a major bottom job to strip off all the old paint and start over again.
I don't thin the paint. I apply it full strength, but use the foam rollers, which apply a thin coat. The rollers with longer nap hold too much paint, and apply it too thick.
Interesting thread - - - over the past three seasons, using both West CPP and PCA Plus it took 2/3 of a gallon to paint the bottom of a 25/fk. This year, using PCA Plus it took the entire gallon -- and we barely got through. The job also looked pretty bad (thick/rough) enough so that my painting son and chemistry lover started looking into the paint and said they changed the formula ratio's "more than a little" from the old (last year) can. Anyway, the result seems to be a thicker and in our case, much quicker drying formula. Anyway, the point to my musing is that as all manufacturers keep working toward greener paint standards, formulas may change rather dramatically as related to not just performance but also application. We all need to assume that last year's success may not translate to next years!
One consideration for the paint makers is they have a much larger market of powerboaters than sailors. A boat pounding at 15-50 knots will ablate paint much more rapidly than one sliding along at 3-6. That's why I thinned the paint on my C-25, and don't on Sarge (except when hot weather thickens the paint as I'm working).
A coat of most ablatives on a C-25 should last several years. "A signal coat (alternating contrasting colors) will tell you when it's time to add a coat, without risking going bare. The front of the keel and rudder are generally the first to go. You can try dressing it up along the waterline by wiping the paint with lacquer thinner and lightly smearing it around, instead of adding paint.
I've used CPP for the last 3 or 4 years with great success. Very little growth on the bottom and the slime layer comes off easy with just some very light scrubbing. This year West marine was out of blue CPP so I bought the eco-friendly ablative paint. A few more bucks but, it supposed to be better for the earth. I use a 3/8" nap roller and apply the paint in about a 2' wide band top to bottom. Then I come back with a foam bruch, the cheap ones, and tip the surface. This smooths out the surface and gets rid of the orange peel finish. Makes for a very smooth bottom since you really can't burnish the ablative paint.
FWIW, just got off the phone with Petit with a question regarding Trinidad 75. I also casually asked what roller they recommend for applying this product. He said a solvent resistant (naturally) <b><u>3/16"</b></u> nap. Red Tree is the brand Petit employees use most for their personal boats - available at paint stores . . .
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Urbamnnaitmer</i> <br />...I'm sorry in case I'm not in the suitable thread...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></font id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">You're not.
Hsven't used this yet, but around here you have to buy a gallon of paint. I don'r usually use that much. Hamilton Marine in Maine sells Aquagrad a water based ablative paint. Because its waterbased you don't have to pay high shipping costs. I was in Maine last summer and talked to the people in Rockland and they liked it.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.